I'm not sure what 0w oils you are referring to, but that definitely doesn't apply to Castol 0w30 and Mobil 1 0w40 from all the UOA's I've seen. I just had 3300 miles on my Castrol 0w30 and the cSt Viscosity at 100 C was 12.58, which puts it on the high end of a 0w30 oil, almost a 0w40. It didn't lose any thickness at all. I did add some oil in between the interval, but still, it's been shown from many people to hold it's properties.

The Infiniti "recommended" oil is 5w30, not 10w30. But I don't see how 10w30 would do anything in my case other than cause more harm when the engine is cold. People like 0 weight oils because they offer better protection on startup, when most engine damage occurs.

 

I Also have a 04 6mt oil guzzler and i was burning 1quart of M1 5w30 every 1k miles.i hear people saying switching to a different velocity won't make a difference but I swear once I started mixing my oil(4 quarts 5w30 and 1 quart 10w40)my oil consumption has been cut in half.ive been doing this for my last 4oil changes and it works for me.

 

So I changed the oil yesterday and I put in conventional Castrol GTX 5w-30. It was on sale on AutoZone with a great deal. They give you the pan to collect the oil, cleaning paper, oil filter, hand cleaner and a funnel.

Let's see how much my car burns. I'm planning to swap the motor out with another used motor this summer due to a ticking noise. So I was wondering if I should get motor from 05/06 Auto car? Would that decrease the chance of getting another car that burns oil heavily?

 

2004 does not have rev-up motor so you can use

2003-2007 AUTOMATIC G35 coupe

2003-2006 Automatic G35 Sedan

2003-2004 Manual G35 coupe or sedan

I would buy a 2007 automatic coupe motor, or 2006 automatic sedan motor with low miles and some sort of warranty.

 

FYI - my results were not evident after my first oil change with conventional. It took a couple oil changes to see a difference. Just stick with it, hopefully you will notice similar results.

Your best bet for a replacement motor is get one with low mileage and pray for the best.

 

Thanks for the responses guys, I will post a WTB thread soon and I will use your advice as guidelines.

 

pg 10-6, 5W30 preferred, 10-30 & 10-40 may be used intemps above ZERO, no where does it say 0-W-30 maybe used. and you are quoting kinetic viiscosity...oil breaks down with heat the improvers/properties cook out with heat. and what are talking you about when you say does not apply...this is SAE specs it applies to all. if you people use Zero W 30 and are having problems maybe that has something to do with it...when there is NO film thickness you get metal to metal contact...AND there is always some oil film on cylinder walls on a cold start up. most of the problems here are cause by insufficient spring pressure behind lower oil controll ring..

 

It probably doesn't say to use 0w30 because Nissan recommends dino oil, and there's not any dino oil that's 0w30 that I'm aware of.

Yes, oil breaks down over time, aka shearing. But what I'm saying is a 0w30 oil is not going to break down to a 0w0 without a lot of contamination. Mobil 1 0w40 will shear down to 0w30, but that's still right in spec. It's been proven many, many times with used oil analysis. My oil was just analyzed as the same thickness as your 5w30 oil when hot, and that's after 3300 miles. So the only difference is mine is thinner when cold. But I don't have any oil burning at all when cold, so I don't see how there's any disadvantage to using it.

Saying a 0w30 oil has no film thickness is completely wrong. The 0 is simply a rating when the oil is cold, not a scientific measurement. Here are some ratings of Mobil 1 0w40 directly from their website (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...l_1_0W-40.aspx:

@ 40º C 75
@ 100º C 13.5

So this means this 0w40 oil is a little over 5 times thicker at 40C than when at 100C.

 

Y'all change your oil way before it has a chance to break down anyway. Unless you are SC/Turbo. Or if you are going past 7500 miles. Which you guys don't

 

^^ agreed.

 

Ryan, I too recently started doing the oil analysis testing via Blackstone Labs. I bought my '04.5 coupe new, car has been a single owner car, and I have put approximately 47k miles on it. I also have a full CAI, MD 5/16 Isothermal spacer, MD MREV2 installed 10-15k miles back and Berk HFCs/Borla dual exhaust/Osiris tune installed about 1-2k miles back. I also followed the specific <4500rpm for the first ~1200 miles break-in period as well (replacing the OEM oil with Mobil 1 synthetic at 1000 miles). I have used Mobil 1 and replaced both oil and filter every ~5k miles, and started using Amsoil 5w30 at around ~40k miles. To date, I have never had an issue with oil consumption. I have attached my first oil analysis test report for comparison. I didn't thoroughly read the sampling instructions and my first sample was sent in using the very first amount of oil to drain out (instead of getting the oil from the 'middle' of source), so I expected some of the heavy metals to probably be higher since they tend to settle to the bottom of the pan.

I had to call Blackstone to get a little further clarification about some of the other readings. Iron, copper and lead were high, they mentioned that could be due to the extremely hot summer we had just had here in Central Texas 2011, and will continue to monitor that trend on future samples. The Molybdenum, Boron, and Calcium are all oil additives/preservatives. As you can see, even with 5k miles on this particular sample, my oil viscosity was right where it should have been and there was still plenty of additives/preservatives in the oil. Check one for Amsoil.

I am curious on what your Chromium number was on your test? Mine was 1.
Btw, I think it would be a great separate thread to have for folks that spend the money on this testing to be able to compare.

 

Your next sample should shed some more light. Hopefully you get the lead and iron down. On my TT setup, even with track abuse, I don't see higher than 10 iron and 4 lead. You might need to switch up your oil to a different brand/weight.

FYI my chromium is also 1.

 

My chromium was 8. I'll have to do another sample to see if it's high next time. I did some engine work on the last oil change, so it's possible something could have gotten in the engine and contaminate the sample. I have attached my report.

 

Just checked my oil today after around 600 miles and it doesn't look like it's burned any at all (it was still slightly higher than the middle of the dipstick). Maybe the 0w40 fixed the issue. I'll have to continue to monitor.

 

Half the dipstick is half a quart.