How to maintain A G?
#16
Below is a good basic explaination, thanks Theory_EK
We all know heat expands most objects, the alloys/steel etc in your engine bay are no exception. This means when cold, the engine components are undersized, which causes excellerated wear.
Also, most know that idling your engine and starting your engine are two of the worst things for it.
By letting your engine idle when cold, after a cold start, you're combining the two worst things for your engine, with a bad variable, cold temperature.
There's more precise reasoning behing why driving it and keeping under 2k RPM as much as possible is far better than idling when the engine is cold, but I'm likely not the best guy to explain it, and it's kind of irrelevant unless you're realy interested in it.
We all know heat expands most objects, the alloys/steel etc in your engine bay are no exception. This means when cold, the engine components are undersized, which causes excellerated wear.
Also, most know that idling your engine and starting your engine are two of the worst things for it.
By letting your engine idle when cold, after a cold start, you're combining the two worst things for your engine, with a bad variable, cold temperature.
There's more precise reasoning behing why driving it and keeping under 2k RPM as much as possible is far better than idling when the engine is cold, but I'm likely not the best guy to explain it, and it's kind of irrelevant unless you're realy interested in it.
Anyway, not really a big deal since it doesn't really affect me. Just wondering.
#17
#18
Ha, this is actually the part I am interested in. I know that cold starts and running your engine while it's cold are when the most wear occurs, but I'm just curious as to why driving while it's cold is any better than letting it idle while it's cold. I don't really see how it would be any different except that it reduces the amount of time your engine is running by those extra few minutes per trip.
Anyway, not really a big deal since it doesn't really affect me. Just wondering.
Anyway, not really a big deal since it doesn't really affect me. Just wondering.
there's a lot of literature out on this I'll dig sometihng up a bit later for you
#19
Basic engine principles are the same, but older cars were carburated, and needed to warm before they'd run properly, in that time, warming them up was necessary or you'd stall out or cause more damage than idling due to improper fuel/air mixture
#20
Just a note, you're actually best not to let your car idle to warm up. The best way is to start the car, and start driving right away once the idle settles. And just drive slow keeping revs down until the engine reaches operating temperature.
You can speed up this process by keeping your heater off until the engine is warm as well.
Idling your car is bad, idling the car when cold is worse, 2 minutes is hardly a long time, but if you're doing this stricktly to 'save' your engine, then don't bother, you're much better off doing as recommended above
You can speed up this process by keeping your heater off until the engine is warm as well.
Idling your car is bad, idling the car when cold is worse, 2 minutes is hardly a long time, but if you're doing this stricktly to 'save' your engine, then don't bother, you're much better off doing as recommended above
with this method I have had 3 nissan v6's go over 200,000 mi.
#24
In Houston I do the idle, drive off, and don't rev it too hard technique, but since the ambient temp here is 100 degrees half the year I don't have to wait long.
I remember being shocked the first time I 'cold started' a car here and the needle already was showing over 100 and the car hadn't been run in 20 hours..
I remember being shocked the first time I 'cold started' a car here and the needle already was showing over 100 and the car hadn't been run in 20 hours..
Last edited by finallygot1; 03-22-2012 at 12:23 AM. Reason: sp
#25
Well, the cold is a bit of a different situation, but not by much.
Below -15 Celcius (around 7 Farenheit), I'd for sure recommend letting hte engine warm for about a min or two. But that's pretty cold temps, and even this could be argued. More than a minute or two is not really necessary though.
Also, when running those temps you should be running 0w-30 oil, or somehwere there abouts, as such, the oil won't play into the discussion so much. Also, your oil pump turns in direct relation to engine speed. And the oil will flow better when you're not at idle, pretty much everything in the car works better when the car is under slight load and maintaining under 2-3k RPM revs until warm. Idling warms the car up slower, warms the oil slower, circulates the oil slower, etc, etc. So the longer you idle, the worse it is, period.
And any temps lower than that you should be using a block heater and/or electric blanket if you really give a crap about your car.
A few decent quotes that apply to this I've included below.
You'll note a lot of guys will recommend longer idle times in below freezing temps, this isn't really due to oil, but due to excessively cold block/piston, etc temps. The colder they are the longer they take to warm up to temp, and the colder they are the smaller they are, which means more wear on the engine, this is why you want to keep RPM down until the block has a minute or so to get to a reasonable tolerance.
Again though, more than a couple minutes is un-necessary and only more harmful, and this is ONLY in below-freezing temps. All other situations, just get in a drive slow until the car warms up
Below -15 Celcius (around 7 Farenheit), I'd for sure recommend letting hte engine warm for about a min or two. But that's pretty cold temps, and even this could be argued. More than a minute or two is not really necessary though.
Also, when running those temps you should be running 0w-30 oil, or somehwere there abouts, as such, the oil won't play into the discussion so much. Also, your oil pump turns in direct relation to engine speed. And the oil will flow better when you're not at idle, pretty much everything in the car works better when the car is under slight load and maintaining under 2-3k RPM revs until warm. Idling warms the car up slower, warms the oil slower, circulates the oil slower, etc, etc. So the longer you idle, the worse it is, period.
And any temps lower than that you should be using a block heater and/or electric blanket if you really give a crap about your car.
A few decent quotes that apply to this I've included below.
You'll note a lot of guys will recommend longer idle times in below freezing temps, this isn't really due to oil, but due to excessively cold block/piston, etc temps. The colder they are the longer they take to warm up to temp, and the colder they are the smaller they are, which means more wear on the engine, this is why you want to keep RPM down until the block has a minute or so to get to a reasonable tolerance.
Again though, more than a couple minutes is un-necessary and only more harmful, and this is ONLY in below-freezing temps. All other situations, just get in a drive slow until the car warms up
Although you might think it’s easier on your car to let it sit and gently warm up, doing so is a bad idea for a number of reasons. Most importantly, it does indeed waste gas.
The vast majority of cars on the road today use electronic fuel injection. When your car’s engine is cold, the computer tells the fuel injectors to stay open longer, allowing more fuel into the engine to help it run cold. As the engine warms up, the injectors let in less fuel and everything returns to normal, so to speak.
The problem is, letting your car sit and idle is the slowest way to bring it up to operating temperature because it’s generally sitting in your drive at just above idle speed. And this method to warm up also invites other problems. Remember that modern cars are equipped with a multitude of devices to help them run clean, including a catalytic converter (sometimes three of them), a device in the exhaust system that works to burn off unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust stream. A cold engine emits a far higher percentage of unburned hydrocarbons than a warm engine. Unfortunately, the average catalytic converter can’t process 100 percent of unburned hydrocarbons even in the best of times. Importantly, the catalytic converter needs high exhaust temperatures to work properly. Throw in a cold engine emitting a high percentage of unburned hydrocarbons, repeat several hundred times, and you can end up with what’s called a “plugged” converter. In a nutshell, the converter becomes overwhelmed and literally ceases to function. This won’t happen all at once but over time, the end effect is the same: poor mileage and significantly dirtier exhaust.
The best bet? Even when it’s 10 degrees F outside, start your car, let it run for 30 to 60 seconds to get all the fluids moving, then drive off gently. Your engine will warm up faster, your exhaust system will get up to temperature faster so the catalytic converter can do its thing, and you’ll use less fuel. Which is what you wanted all along anyhow, right?
If it's below zero outside, it would be a good idea to give the engine five minutes or a little less before you drive off into the frozen wilderness!
Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/ask-o...#ixzz1pon3JOu7
The vast majority of cars on the road today use electronic fuel injection. When your car’s engine is cold, the computer tells the fuel injectors to stay open longer, allowing more fuel into the engine to help it run cold. As the engine warms up, the injectors let in less fuel and everything returns to normal, so to speak.
The problem is, letting your car sit and idle is the slowest way to bring it up to operating temperature because it’s generally sitting in your drive at just above idle speed. And this method to warm up also invites other problems. Remember that modern cars are equipped with a multitude of devices to help them run clean, including a catalytic converter (sometimes three of them), a device in the exhaust system that works to burn off unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust stream. A cold engine emits a far higher percentage of unburned hydrocarbons than a warm engine. Unfortunately, the average catalytic converter can’t process 100 percent of unburned hydrocarbons even in the best of times. Importantly, the catalytic converter needs high exhaust temperatures to work properly. Throw in a cold engine emitting a high percentage of unburned hydrocarbons, repeat several hundred times, and you can end up with what’s called a “plugged” converter. In a nutshell, the converter becomes overwhelmed and literally ceases to function. This won’t happen all at once but over time, the end effect is the same: poor mileage and significantly dirtier exhaust.
The best bet? Even when it’s 10 degrees F outside, start your car, let it run for 30 to 60 seconds to get all the fluids moving, then drive off gently. Your engine will warm up faster, your exhaust system will get up to temperature faster so the catalytic converter can do its thing, and you’ll use less fuel. Which is what you wanted all along anyhow, right?
If it's below zero outside, it would be a good idea to give the engine five minutes or a little less before you drive off into the frozen wilderness!
Read more: http://www.motherearthnews.com/ask-o...#ixzz1pon3JOu7
In these modern times most of us don’t think once, never mind twice, about warming up our engines. We turn the key and expect our vehicles to be ready to go. But despite technological advancements, are we compromising performance, or even shortening the life of our vehicles?
From the invention of the automobile until the late 1980s, fuel delivery was regulated by a carburetor – which often required a warm-up period to ensure smooth operation. Modern cars start easier in varying climates than their predecessors because they’re fuel-injected.
Let’s take a moment to think about what happens in an electronic fuel-injected engine when the ignition key is turned. The fuel-injection computer calibrates precisely how much fuel is required. When your car engine is cold, the computer directs the fuel injectors to allow more fuel into the engine. As the engine warms, the injectors let in less fuel.
“You get a lot of old wives tales, and even mechanics will argue amongst themselves. There’s not a definite answer; you can find two mechanics with two different answers,” says veteran mechanic Russ Perry.
“It doesn’t hurt to start and let it warm for a minute or two, or to start and drive away. It comes down to your preferences. If I had a brand-new vehicle I was really proud of, I would want to let it warm up for a minute or so, but that’s more of a psychological thing.
“What I tell my customers when they’ve asked me this question over the years: in ordinary summer, spring, or fall weather – get into your car, start the engine, and while putting on your seat belt, getting comfortable, checking your mirrors and turning on your radio, 30-45 seconds have passed, so put it in gear and off you go,” Perry says.
“People argue that at 32 F or 0 C [freezing], the oil is cold, it’s like molasses, so you should let it warm up – but I’ve never seen oil like molasses when doing oil changes out in my shop, down to -10 C.
“If you’re up in northern Alberta, where it’s -20 or -30, a lot of vehicles are plugged in at night so the battery is kept warm via an electric blanket. They also have a probe that sticks into the oil pan or engine block to keep everything warm. So under extreme conditions, without these devices, yes, you’d want to let it warm up a few minutes because the oil is quite thick,” Perry says.
When I contacted Toyota Canada, its representative said it’s not necessary to warm your vehicle, nor will doing so cause any harm. The rep adds that there are pros and cons: the motor and oil will warm, and the coolant will flow – but idling for long is harder on the environment.
If you have a fuel-injected car, it’s not necessary to warm it up in average weather conditions. If you choose to do so, it may not harm your vehicle – but it could hurt your wallet. There are bylaw fines for idling in many municipalities – including the one-minute rule in Toronto.
From the invention of the automobile until the late 1980s, fuel delivery was regulated by a carburetor – which often required a warm-up period to ensure smooth operation. Modern cars start easier in varying climates than their predecessors because they’re fuel-injected.
Let’s take a moment to think about what happens in an electronic fuel-injected engine when the ignition key is turned. The fuel-injection computer calibrates precisely how much fuel is required. When your car engine is cold, the computer directs the fuel injectors to allow more fuel into the engine. As the engine warms, the injectors let in less fuel.
“You get a lot of old wives tales, and even mechanics will argue amongst themselves. There’s not a definite answer; you can find two mechanics with two different answers,” says veteran mechanic Russ Perry.
“It doesn’t hurt to start and let it warm for a minute or two, or to start and drive away. It comes down to your preferences. If I had a brand-new vehicle I was really proud of, I would want to let it warm up for a minute or so, but that’s more of a psychological thing.
“What I tell my customers when they’ve asked me this question over the years: in ordinary summer, spring, or fall weather – get into your car, start the engine, and while putting on your seat belt, getting comfortable, checking your mirrors and turning on your radio, 30-45 seconds have passed, so put it in gear and off you go,” Perry says.
“People argue that at 32 F or 0 C [freezing], the oil is cold, it’s like molasses, so you should let it warm up – but I’ve never seen oil like molasses when doing oil changes out in my shop, down to -10 C.
“If you’re up in northern Alberta, where it’s -20 or -30, a lot of vehicles are plugged in at night so the battery is kept warm via an electric blanket. They also have a probe that sticks into the oil pan or engine block to keep everything warm. So under extreme conditions, without these devices, yes, you’d want to let it warm up a few minutes because the oil is quite thick,” Perry says.
When I contacted Toyota Canada, its representative said it’s not necessary to warm your vehicle, nor will doing so cause any harm. The rep adds that there are pros and cons: the motor and oil will warm, and the coolant will flow – but idling for long is harder on the environment.
If you have a fuel-injected car, it’s not necessary to warm it up in average weather conditions. If you choose to do so, it may not harm your vehicle – but it could hurt your wallet. There are bylaw fines for idling in many municipalities – including the one-minute rule in Toronto.
#30
Though in the winter, it's nice to get into a warm car. But its definately not good for the car, just for you
This is a joke, yes?