G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Big problem... SES light, NO power, engine not running so fine. *PAYPAL REWARD*

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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 11:54 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 2004v35
try the acceleration sensor, had a issue where i would floor the car but it wouldnt go past 40
bet you got great gas mileage even at WOT
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 03:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by funnyscreenname
bet you got great gas mileage even at WOT
yeah but old grandmas where high beaming me to speed up
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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We need the code also make sure you didn't accidentally plug the # 4 & 6 COP connectors incorrectly. Very common mistake which can cause a random misfire and can cause the CATs to clog if you drive it too much. That doesn't really cause a major loss of power like yours but worth checking

Also make sure each spark plug was screwed in correctly

Try unplugging battery (negative cable) for about 30-40min for a cheap ECU reset. Also do the TB reset like a few in here suggested.

I have an '04 35x as well with similar mileage. Had power loss recently but it was due to oil consumption and camshaft sensors.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by invert
Hey everyone,

Let me explain briefly what happened to me and let me know if you have an idea:

I bought that car:
2004 G35x (AWD) 5AT with 120k miles

1. Had horrible gas mileage (12mpg) so I decided to give it some maintenance
2. Changed air filter & oil change, but still bad (but better) gas mileage
3. Changed spark plugs AND did a SEAFORM at the same time and the problems started...
4. Cat from the driver side was clogged (real bad because of the seaform) and became RED (hot) while driving, car had difficulty going up hill (no power)
5. Now I have some brand new Kinetix high flow cats but still the SES and no power

Anyone has ideas ? My mechanic tried to reset the ECU but he can't get it to flash (SES light).

I'm running out of ideas and a bit pissed off by this...

The one who can find me the problem will get a PayPal reward as I need this solved FAST.


***UPDATE***
Talked with the mechanic, he told me an oil change has been done after the seafoam.
He also told me he didn't notice if the tranny changed speed while driving as the engine seemed to have difficulty getting power (he couldn't drive at a normal speed).
He guesses it could be the O2 sensors... could he be right ?
Your mechanic isn't a good one, if you're posted info is accurate.

If you want to know my thoughts/direction from what you've told us so far, here it is, but I need more info to be more accurate:

Suspected main resultant damage causing low power: High restriction in the exhaust caused excessive and accellerated piston/valve wear, possibly (hopefully) only on one bank, the same bank the pre-cat was plugged on.

Luckily this is fairly simple to check, you (or your mechanic) need to do a compression test. The fact that your mechanic hasn't come up with this already surprises me. Here's the PROPER procedure and result comparison from the FSM (factory service manual) that Infiniti uses, I suggest you pass this along to your mechanic before he does it

Note, using a OBD2 scanner for reading cranking RPM will work fine, you don't need a Tachometer gauge or CONSULT II, generic code readers should show live-data/monitor mode. Basically you just want to make sure it's cranking strong during testing with a good battery, preferably being charged during the testing to maintain it's charge:




Pay special attention to the Valve comments, and when checking for bad rings by putting oil in, make sure to use the same amount (say, 3 drops) in each cylinder to maintain consistant results. You must check ALL cylinders for proper comparison when checking with oil.

I suspect the Valves to be bad, but without a better time frame even that is hard to say. And I have a whole list of systematic other things to check in order that relate to your speciifc complaints, but given what I know thus-far, I would suspect resultant engine damage of some sort.

We HAVE TO KNOW YOUR CODES, you have a warning Light for a reason, FIND OUT THE CODE AND POST IT!!!!!

And fill this out, with as much additional info as possible about the time frame/mileage between each "event" that you listed in your OP. Don't fill out any personal info, such as VIN though.



Also, if you can add any "events" that is very helpful. State mileages, driving experiences, etc. Don't list any preconceived ideas, just FACTS and EVENTS.

Also, if the car's smoking at all and what colour, under what loads, etc.

In the meantime, have your mechanic check compression as shown and post back results.




 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 10:51 PM
  #20  
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/thread lol
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:17 AM
  #21  
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Hey guys,

To give an update, we changed the cats (one was very clogged) and the problem was solved, I've had good mileage but still a SES light (even after resetting ECU).

I drove for a good 600 miles and didn't have any problems (except a grinding noise from exhaust at ~2-3000 rpm when not accelerating too fast), but exhaust is in bad shape, so I don't mind much.

Car ran fine for a few days after high flow cats were installed. Now, this morning, got a SES light on + flashing and couldn't leave my parking... tried to press gas pedal on P, but it wouldn't go over 3000 RPM.

I had an OBD2 scanner to find these codes when the car ran fine: (2 days ago): P1168 and P1051.

Anyone can help me out ?
 

Last edited by invert; Apr 10, 2012 at 08:43 AM.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 09:00 AM
  #22  
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Did you do the compression test?

There's no way you just plugged 2 cats solid back to back and don't have other issues. Seems like you're avoiding checking? I can't blame you for that but dude, check your compression, WTF.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 09:27 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TunerMax
Did you do the compression test?

There's no way you just plugged 2 cats solid back to back and don't have other issues. Seems like you're avoiding checking? I can't blame you for that but dude, check your compression, WTF.
Compression test has not been done. Thing is that the car ran fine for a whole week with no issues whatsoever. Gas mileage was good and the car had power. It even drove very well yesterday for a short drive (5 miles). This morning, when I started it, the SES light started flashing, couldn't leave my parking spot, couldn't rev higher than 3000 RPM, seemed like it wanted to stall.

Oh, and another weird issue I didn't mention, the airbag light is on since a few days.

I've been avoiding compression because I'm trying to find out if there could be one simpler solution before sending the car to the mechanics and get a huge bill.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:22 AM
  #24  
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Airbag light is a common thing (search) and has nothing to do with your other problem(s).

Now, you're probably not going to like this, but I'm going to suggest it anyway. Take the car to a good dealership, or a well rated and reputable shop in your area. In your attempt to save money, you're going to end up nickle and dime'n yourself and throwing good money after bad. It already sounds to me that some of your problems were caused by your "mechanic". Tell us the truth; is your mechanic really you or your buddy next door? I guess it doesn't matter, only that you need a second opinion.

Worst thing would be that you have a serious issue with the engine (note the multiple suggestions to get a compression test) and you keep spending money on other things. Also, when you do the compression test and (if) it fails, have them specify how; eg leak down.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:27 AM
  #25  
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the car is in limp mode fromt the sounds of it..
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:39 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by G35 Owner
Airbag light is a common thing (search) and has nothing to do with your other problem(s).

Now, you're probably not going to like this, but I'm going to suggest it anyway. Take the car to a good dealership, or a well rated and reputable shop in your area. In your attempt to save money, you're going to end up nickle and dime'n yourself and throwing good money after bad. It already sounds to me that some of your problems were caused by your "mechanic". Tell us the truth; is your mechanic really you or your buddy next door? I guess it doesn't matter, only that you need a second opinion.

Worst thing would be that you have a serious issue with the engine (note the multiple suggestions to get a compression test) and you keep spending money on other things. Also, when you do the compression test and (if) it fails, have them specify how; eg leak down.
Well, the mechanic is one I used quite a lot when I did engine work on my other car, always had great results. It's not me nor a buddy, it really is a shop specialized in engine work, but I believe they aren't very good with newer vehicles.

So, from previous comments, I should really get a compression test done.

I keep suggesting o2 sensors as when I search for both codes I get it seems like an o2 sensor thing. But the codes were there before the car started running bad.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 11:40 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by tylerxfire
the car is in limp mode fromt the sounds of it..
Yes, wondering if an ECU reset would make it driveable... or if towing is the only thing that can be done.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 12:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by invert
I've been avoiding compression because I'm trying to find out if there could be one simpler solution before sending the car to the mechanics and get a huge bill.
A compression test on this car takes 30 minutes. At MAXimum 1 hour. That's under $80.

Just fkcuing do it already. If the engine is bad you're wasting your money and time on everything else you're doing and have done.

You wanted advice from guys who know what they're talking about but you're not fkcuking taking it!

So do it your way bro, good luck.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 12:29 PM
  #29  
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Flashing SES = random misfire = faulty spark plugs/bad injectors/bad COP or low/no compression

Since the first 3 were never an issue for you, I am betting a lack of compression as well.

Also the two codes you provided suggest your O2 sensors are shot (since CATs are new)
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 12:44 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by TunerMax
A compression test on this car takes 30 minutes. At MAXimum 1 hour. That's under $80.

Just fkcuing do it already. If the engine is bad you're wasting your money and time on everything else you're doing and have done.

You wanted advice from guys who know what they're talking about but you're not fkcuking taking it!

So do it your way bro, good luck.
I'll sure have the compression test. First thing I'll have done once I can have it sent to a garage.

What results do I need to ask them to look for to be sure of my problem?
 
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