Big problem... SES light, NO power, engine not running so fine. *PAYPAL REWARD*
Flashing SES = random misfire = faulty spark plugs/bad injectors/bad COP or low/no compression
Since the first 3 were never an issue for you, I am betting a lack of compression as well.
Also the two codes you provided suggest your O2 sensors are shot (since CATs are new)
Since the first 3 were never an issue for you, I am betting a lack of compression as well.
Also the two codes you provided suggest your O2 sensors are shot (since CATs are new)
But you need to accept this help, and help yourself too! Go back and read my Post, it's number #19. The answer to your question is with the procedure I gave you for checking Compression in the first place.
^This. Though the most common cause is faulty Coils, I do doubt that that's what's going on with your car Invert. I'd also bet when your mechanic pulls those spark plugs they'll be looking rough already.
I feel like you didn't even read my post dude. I put a lot into trying to help you in that post, but you're not taking the advice. I am not looking for a PayPal reward bro, I'm just trying to help you.
But you need to accept this help, and help yourself too! Go back and read my Post, it's number #19. The answer to your question is with the procedure I gave you for checking Compression in the first place.
I feel like you didn't even read my post dude. I put a lot into trying to help you in that post, but you're not taking the advice. I am not looking for a PayPal reward bro, I'm just trying to help you.
But you need to accept this help, and help yourself too! Go back and read my Post, it's number #19. The answer to your question is with the procedure I gave you for checking Compression in the first place.
The main thing that surprises me the most is that I've been able to drive for a while (600+ miles) without any issue. Long and short drives.
> 200miles later > PROBLEM BACK 
Point I am trying to make is that don't focus on the 600mi.
How did you solve your problem in the end ?
New engine lol
Lets hope you don't have worn out piston rings/bad valves problem. Because that's was my issue. Cylinder 4 had no compression and that caused all the unburnt fuel to go to the CATs. I finally got the engine fixed and now I have bad CATs and O2 sensor. FML
Are you burning any oil? Have done an oil change?
Lets hope you don't have worn out piston rings/bad valves problem. Because that's was my issue. Cylinder 4 had no compression and that caused all the unburnt fuel to go to the CATs. I finally got the engine fixed and now I have bad CATs and O2 sensor. FML
Are you burning any oil? Have done an oil change?
New engine lol
Lets hope you don't have worn out piston rings/bad valves problem. Because that's was my issue. Cylinder 4 had no compression and that caused all the unburnt fuel to go to the CATs. I finally got the engine fixed and now I have bad CATs and O2 sensor. FML
Are you burning any oil? Have done an oil change?
Lets hope you don't have worn out piston rings/bad valves problem. Because that's was my issue. Cylinder 4 had no compression and that caused all the unburnt fuel to go to the CATs. I finally got the engine fixed and now I have bad CATs and O2 sensor. FML
Are you burning any oil? Have done an oil change?
Now, I started the car a few times and it starts fine, goes to 1200RPM all the way to ~500rpm and wants to stall (takes around 20-30secs). Not pressing the gas pedal or anything.
Another possibility might be that you 'clogged' your fuel injectors by using the seafoam. Causing a loss of power to the cylinders
Would resetting my ECU be a bad idea or it could just be okay to try?
Just to recap:
All the parts involved in your problem are:
Plugs
Coilpacks
injectors
O2 sensors
CATs
and a compression test (check to see if the results for any one/two cylinders is different from the others)
Check/change these and if the problem still persists (assuming a normal compression test) then we can diagnose more. But from your description and updates it seems one of these is at fault. Sometimes one of these going bad can cause a domino effect and lead to others failing.
Former G35driver Vendor
iTrader: (37)
I majority of this post. Sounds like your mechanic has no tools or doesnt know how to use them..
First thing SEAFOAM is a horrible thing to use on any modern car.
If I were to guess right now it's to say you damaged a sensor so the car's running but in limp mode? If you can start the car just fine you can assume your coils, plugs, and fuel is okay.. if it starts immediately you MIGHT even rule out the MAF, starter, and sensors.
I'd say check all the sensors from exhaust temp to o2 sensors.. How you test it? just get a volt meter you dont need to know the values but that'll at least tell you whether it's working or not.
But sounds like your mechanic needs some tools in his garage or you need a new mechanic.
The above is very very very easy to check with the car lifted. Another very easy way to see what's wrong with anything combustion related is just to check exhaust gases..
- Eric
626-592-3103
First thing SEAFOAM is a horrible thing to use on any modern car.
If I were to guess right now it's to say you damaged a sensor so the car's running but in limp mode? If you can start the car just fine you can assume your coils, plugs, and fuel is okay.. if it starts immediately you MIGHT even rule out the MAF, starter, and sensors.
I'd say check all the sensors from exhaust temp to o2 sensors.. How you test it? just get a volt meter you dont need to know the values but that'll at least tell you whether it's working or not.
But sounds like your mechanic needs some tools in his garage or you need a new mechanic.
The above is very very very easy to check with the car lifted. Another very easy way to see what's wrong with anything combustion related is just to check exhaust gases..
- Eric
626-592-3103
*** 4th UPDATE ***
So we did some tests and we started the car with the MAF sensor unplugged. Boy it did run smooth. Idles perfectly but with lots of lights in the dash. Looks like this could be the faulty thing ?
So we tried 2 and 3 times, when the MAF sensor is plugged, the car idles real bad and wants to die. When it's unplugged, it gets a great idle and sounds good.
Question is... can I drive with the MAF sensor unplugged or it'll make the car to shut down ?
So we did some tests and we started the car with the MAF sensor unplugged. Boy it did run smooth. Idles perfectly but with lots of lights in the dash. Looks like this could be the faulty thing ?
So we tried 2 and 3 times, when the MAF sensor is plugged, the car idles real bad and wants to die. When it's unplugged, it gets a great idle and sounds good.
Question is... can I drive with the MAF sensor unplugged or it'll make the car to shut down ?



