Quoted to respond to your last post.

 

Okay so when the MAF is unplugged it idles and drives great but it's in limp mode, can't get past 2500 RPM but doesn't bug at idle. Will have a compression test tomorrow to see if things are good or bad.

 

wtf you can start it without the MAF?

- Eric
626-592-3103

 

Yes! It actually surprised me too!

Idle = Perfect
Driving = Limp mode, but seems perfect except it cannot go over 2500 RPM

So I'm wondering if the problem could really be on the ECU/electronics side.

 

sorry no help from me. Just another reason why I dont mess with my car too much. Change the oil, filters whatever is recommended. keep all the promise potions and crap away. Seems to run fine that way

 

*** 5th UPDATE ***

Compression test has been done and the engine is in awesome shape (for the 130k mileage on it). So engine is good, now it's the time to find the trouble. O2 sensor from Infiniti = 171$ / 199$,

Garage found out that there's a tube(?) under the air filter that's got a huge crack on it and air was entering from there...this could be the big problem.

 

Well a vacuum leak is not good

So compression test were good means you don't have the problem I had! (thank god)

Now step 2 would be MAF (since you are saying the car idles fine when you unplug it.
Step 3 would be O2 sensors

Do you know anyone else that drives a G35 or a comparable nissan in your family/friends? The cheapest way to test these things is take the part from a working car and test it in yours. No point spending $200 for sensors when you aren't sure if that is the problem or not

 

My guess could be that because of the big leak, it makes the MAF go crazy, hence when it's unplugged it doesn't care about the leak and idles great.

Actually, got no friends with the similar car heh, gotta pay and have it to work fine. It's sad as it's my winter beater and actually cost me twice as I thought lol.

I'm pretty sure my check engines codes are also saying that 1 or 2 o2 sensors are bad...

 

Can you see the crack in the air filter box? Try doing to a temp fix by blocking the leak and see if that makes a difference. Just wrap tape around the tube or something just to 'test' it

Sometimes you have to try 'ghetto' fixes before spending big bucks on unnecessary items

 

There's nothing in the air filter box that would cause this issue. that's all "pre" MAFS.
If it's air intake related, it's something "POST" MAFS (after the sensor leak)

However if there's a pre-MAF leak that's allowing unfiltered air in, it needs to be repaired as well, and could have caused debris to take your MAFS out.

What were the compression test results?

 

You have a bad maf. Replace it and it will solve the problem. I have 3 extras if you need one cheap. I had same issue. Had a maf from a parts 350z and used it since i let someone borrow my intake. Wouldnt stay idling. Put my maf back in and car worked normal. Im pretty sure you just have a bad maf from what you are stating. An intake leak will just cause the car to idle high

 

I'd concur with this as a VERY HIGH possibility.

there's something really, really messed up with your engine management if your compressoin test is fine. Because there's no way you should ever roast 2 precats back to back, especially not in under 600miles!

 

Actually, I haven't seen it. They told me that tube had collapsed or something and they put tape on it and the car would drive fine. That's what caused the limp mode.

They ordered a new one from Infiniti and it was around $200. I wonder which one it is... they told me it was near the intake box.

 

I don't have the results with me, but I gave them the compression test you gave me and they told me the engine results were very good (solid engine).

 

I will have to try the car with the new pipe on to see if there's still something wrong, but they told me it was running fine now.

Can you PM me the price of the MAF in case I need it ?