So i just confirmed with Uprev that i have the ECU that can't be reflashed! This totally sucks :-(
There goes my plan for building a motor and turbocharging in the future.

 

Full standalone or swap a newer motor + ecu into her

 

i can probably get away with a Apexi AFC NEO for now....

 

Or just abandon your hopes of boosting on this platform. I can tell you from personal experience that its a tough love hate relationship that only gets more frustrating and expensive the deeper you get in

 

As the OP keenly found out, this is not actualy accurate. A little clarification:

Extenders are "NON FOULERS". Correct, these move the O2 sensor out of the direct exhaust stream so the sensors see less exhaust flow. This WILL NOT FIX YOUR PROBLEM. These are for the secondary/Post Cat O2 sensors, for when you remove your cats. You will probably need something like this because you DID remove your cats with Long tube headers.
BUT you need a tune. Thinking you could install Long tube headers without tuning was a mistake. One you'll have to back-pedal on to fix.

Simulators are exactly that, simulators. This is a chip (computer) that actually simulates normal operation range for an O2, and sends that signal to the computer to trick it into thinking things are A-O.K.
Sims are NOT recommended, and can be very dangerous, especially without a piggyback unit running things for real.
It also doesn't solve your problem, nor does it help you acheive what you want (more power)

WIth your current setup you're probably losing power, and are most likely going to hurt the engine, especially if you idle alot.
You'll also hurt your pocket book.

Here's a brief explaination of what's happening to your engine/ECU:

Your Stock O2 sensors are what they call "NARROWBAND", these read a very small, fairly inaccurate range of Air/Fuel ratio. The Engine uses the Output from these O2 Sensors to determine how much Fuel/Air is needed in the engine.

If your sensors tell the ECU that it's running rich (Low Air/Fuel ratio/ AKA MORE FUEL), then the engine will lower the fuel injected.

If the sensors tell the ECU that it's running LEAN (MORE AIR, like your situation), then it will add more FUEL. This is the safer way to be, but it's not a good thing. You're going to get horrid fuel mileage, and if you idle too much you'll get what they call 'cylinder wash', which basically cleans the oil off the cylinder walls, burning up the pistons and killing your engine much faster than normal.

Also, more fuel in this manner = Less power. So those headers you just put on to get MOAR powah! Are actually HURTING your power output because you're not tuned.

None of these situations are ideal. Obviously.

What you need:
-2 Wideband O2 sensors. These must match the next item (not all are compatible with one-another)
-Engine Management (Piggyback, Standalone, lots of choices here)
-Non-Foulers for your seconday O2 Sensors, something like this is best:

-If you chose a cheaper Engine management, this is where you'll use O2 Simulators. This just basically keeps your Engine lights off. You actually control the fuel yourself with the Engine management device.

There might be a better cheap option, but I dont know about it for the early 2003 ECU. Check on the Maxima forums (5th generation), they have the same ECU's, they will be able to give you the best advice on what to use. Check here:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ng-thread.html

Alternatively, and probably best especially if you DO want to boost the car, and are ready to invest in doing it properly: https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...-interest.html
PM SURRATT (Darren), he will make a Haltech Plug and Play for your car. Then all you need is a tuner to Tune it for you.

Happy researching! You're eyes will bleed for a few weeks before you come up with anything near a solution, if they DON'T, you're doing it wrong.

 

Thanks for all the information!!!

right now the car IMO is running like crap, hestitating, lost power & is getting horrible Mpg's.

It really sounds like i should just take the long tubes back off & put stock manifolds & downpipes with cats back on the car...

These are the o2 sensor extenders that i purchased and will be here in a couple days. I plan to install to get the bank 2 lean code from throwing the CEL light.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261064763128...84.m1439.l2649

Will this fix the code for bank 2 lean, and get the light off? also, do you think that my MPG's will get any better after the lean code is out and light is off? Or is it still going to suffer in mpgs after installing these extenders?

 

Are you doing the work yourself or paying someone?
The cost to pay someone to do this job for a second time would be more than the cost to get a Haltech, like I suggested at the end of my last post, and do the whole thing properly.

Those are great for getting rid of a Cat deficiency code. Like I said, non-foulers/extenders are made to fix codes you get after removing your Cats. The Lean code is different. This code is because the Air/Fuel ratio being read in your exhaust is out of the sensors readable range, in the lean direction.

The engine is DOING IT'S JOB and TELLING YOU THERE"S A PROBLEM.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>THERE IS A PROBLEM<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

It seems like you're trying to get rid of a light in your dash. That can be done by removing the bulb, or installing electrical tape over the light.

If you want to fix the problem you'll have to follow the advice I already gave you in the last post.

I personally disagree with installing these in Primary O2 sensor locations. IMO, tampering with the Primary O2 sensors should never be done unless you're running an Auxillary Fuel controller/Piggyback unit.

Which you aren't at this point.

Further, I'm fairly confident they will fix nothing. These are likely to make your sensors read NOTHING at all, which will just throw a DIFFERENT code, and your car will STILL over fuel and run like crap.

AGAIN: You made a mistake, you didn't do enough research before installing Headers. NO BIG DEAL!!! We all have done it. But Now it's time to play catch-up. If you want to tune, boost, modify this car, you'll need some sort of engine management and Wideband O2 sensors ANYWAYS. So if you ARE planning to do that stuff like you said you were, then it's dumb to remove the Headers. Get the Engine management stuff you need and set it up properly.

 

Once again Thanks!

I installed the o2 extenders into the secondary o2 sensor locations on the collector of the long tubes. I cleared the codes, reset the ecu and drove the car about 35 miles and the car is actually running a lot better than before. It has a better idle, and is not hesitating at steady speed or under acceleration like it was before installing these. I plan to run the re-learn idle with the scanner in the morning.

I would like to be able to tune the car with the mods that i currently have on the car, so i am looking into engine management set ups and possibly just getting a piggyback set up with wideband o2's next.

 

the code i had for running lean on bank 2 (drivers side) which was P0174, was caused by bad o2 sensor, I replaced the sensor and the car is running much smoother at idle, and seems to be much much better. I know the car will still be little on the rich side, bc of the mods on the car, so for now i plan to purchase either a Apexi SAFC2 or Apexi Neo. So i can piggy back the ecu and get it tuned as much as possible with this non flashable ecu i have...