im goint to try and take anothe peek under and see if can catch something and replace the torn oem coupler. i really hope is some sensor or somethgin i really can afford a tranny overhaul or even a replacement at this point.

 

I hooked up the obd2 and dint pull any codes.

 

Whent to a transsmision shop and they were charging me 80 dollars for a diagnostic, and at nissan 105 this ridiculous just for a diagnostics.

 

well im giving up im paying the 105 for the diagnostics at nissan. ive craking my head but cant find out the problem. going to take it on monday and ill let you guys know whats verdict is.

 

finally fixed the issue for $1.07 lol turend out the ripped oem intake couple the one after the maf sensor what letting in to much air so i ducted tape the crap out of it and violaa this baby purss.

 

okay sorry im 4 years late, but ive had this beautiful car for about 3 months now and this has been a problem for me from the start. I finally figured it out. The issue is that somewhere after the MAF there is unidentified air entering the system when placed under high suction (1st gear high rpms). For me it was the fat 3 inch hose that connected the MAF with the silencer (the hose that looks like a bendy straw). It had a HUGE cut hidden in the crevice. I used J-Bond epoxy on it, let it dry for an hour, then ductaped the hell out of it. This will hold till the oem part comes in because local car shops didnt have it. I placed that sucker back on and it worked like a miracle. Huge fix for under $20. I recommend checking EVERY component after the MAF for cracks and your problem will be resolved.

 

Were you able to order just the coupling or did you have to get the whole intake tube? I have a tear in the coupling on my M35 and can't find just the coupling that attaches to the throttle body.

 

Same. Mine was the first bendy coupler before the intake silencer. I checked all my local autozones and pepboys etc. but none of them have it. You can find one on amazon, but if you want it sooner you can take it out of a similar vehicle at a junkyard. I did the broke boy fix by using JB weld from autozone then gorilla taping when dry and im still pushing strong. So in short, i didnt find the pure coupling around me but it is on amazon, ductape will do the trick while you wait for it.

 

Thanks for the info. I will check out amazon. Meanwhile, I used silicone on mine and it seems solid. I'll keep an eye on it while I check out a frugal replacement.

 

i have a 2007 g35 x and mine seems to do that from a stop. to get to second. if your not laying into it it seems it has no power in first. idk if it the e.t.c or what.

 

My G would struggle in first gear as if the air to fuel ratios were not adding up. After first gear, you could rev it up all you want. My solution was that somewhere after the mass airflow sensor, there was an opening where air would intrude (upper MAF cuppler was torn) and mess with the computers calculations. Check all of your hoses and cupplers for leaks. It turned out to be a super cheap fix.

 

hey guys - brand new to this forumn. Purchased an 07 G35X about six months ago. Been having a problem with it jumping in first year. If I don't come to a complete stop and then try to gas it it jumps from about a thousand RPM to 2500 rpm and jerks the whole car. Only happens in that lower gear and typically when cold but it's been doing it more often lately. It's driving me absolutely crazy. I tried resetting the ECU and I cleaning the MAF. Not sure how I check to see if there's a rip in the tubing that connects the MAF to the throttle bodies. It all looks good but I'm hoping that's the problem. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly greatly appreciated. Love the car but I hate this quirk. Please help!

 

Take off the intake pipe and inspect the rubber coupling boots for damage, cracks/tears/etc. Make sure to fully remove them from the vehicle so you can REALLY inspect them, all of them. While you're at it check out the hoses connecting the PCV valves to the intake tract and all other vacuum plumbing.

If that doesn't work then you might need the relearn performed for idle air, throttle position. I'm not sure if you can do the pedal dance on an HR motor, maybe someone else can chime in that knows for sure.

That it only happens when cold makes me suspect it's just a vacuum leak though, contraction of cold materials.

 

Cleric670, thank you so much for the response! Just to make sure I'm on the same page you're talking about the black rubber tubing that connects the air filter box to the throttle bodies correct? It looks like there's a couple of other little things attached to it but does that tubing come off relatively usually?

Also how would I know what other tubes are part of the vacuum system?

I thought about the idle air relearning as well and I'll look into that.

Again thank you thank you thank you thank you. Hoping I find something and that this actually works! That hesitation and jerk is so frustrating.

 

Yeah there are sections of rigid plastic pipe with rubber couplings that hold it together, the other smaller tubes that plug into the big one are part of the PCV system, inspect those as well, the both go to the valve cover and plug into the PCV valve itself. Just be careful not to unplug the electrical harnesses.

EDIT: You can try the recalibration steps listed here to see if they work for the HR engine, you should know immediately because the CEL will either flash or it won't.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/g35...procedure.html