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$200 for new senders and around $125 for the cluster repair and I'm back in business with a working gas gauge.
Thanks so much for the info, as I have the same problem. Would you mind sharing the parts information for the sender? And, you had your cluster repaired via ebay. Who's the ebay seller?
Thanks so much for the info, as I have the same problem. Would you mind sharing the parts information for the sender? And, you had your cluster repaired via ebay. Who's the ebay seller?
As it turns out, the ebay repair didn't pan out. Cluster went out completely a couple months after the repair. No backlight first and then no gauges shortly after that. So the final fix was to send it in to Tanin Auto Electronix | Auto Repairs, Sales and DIY Parts. They said the cluster board was not repairable and had failed because of corrosion. My guess is from the ebay repair not being done properly. So they had to find another board and replace the bad one in the cluster. I'm assuming it was a used board but not sure. They test, repair, and certify with a lifetime warranty. Finally got the replacement installed today and it's working great, albeit $500 later.
As it turns out, the ebay repair didn't pan out. Cluster went out completely a couple months after the repair. No backlight first and then no gauges shortly after that. So the final fix was to send it in to Tanin Auto Electronix | Auto Repairs, Sales and DIY Parts. They said the cluster board was not repairable and had failed because of corrosion. My guess is from the ebay repair not being done properly. So they had to find another board and replace the bad one in the cluster. I'm assuming it was a used board but not sure. They test, repair, and certify with a lifetime warranty. Finally got the replacement installed today and it's working great, albeit $500 later.
i just wanted a couple more recommendations before I pull the trigger...
To elaborate, my fuel gauge has been erratic in the past year but now it doesn't go below 3/4.
thanks in advance!
Before you send your cluster check and change the temperature control unit first, its behind the radio its a white box that was my issue and it solved it.
It seems like half the cars have issues with the fuel sender, half have issues with the dash. Symptoms are the same, test the fuel sender unit by unplugging the harness and measuring resistance across pins 2 and 5. If it's sending the correct signal to the dash then the issue is probably the cluster.
Both seem to show the same symptoms though, car will show a half-tank on the gauge even though it's empty.
Here are the resistance readings you should see on the pump and sub pump, if it's sending the wrong signal you can remove the malfunctioning one, use a #2 pencil to clean up the electrical contacts (look at the black streak across the middle of the contacts in the picture, that's the corrosion you want to remove with the lead of a #2 pencil), as long as the metal wire strips aren't actually broken this usually works to fix the problem. Instrument cluster problem is usually a failing resistor, scroll up this thread a few posts for replacing the resistors on the circuit board.
I've been pretty much putting off this issue. My cluster's needle in the fuel gauge doesn't illuminate as brightly as other components in the instrument cluster. I think that's indicative of cluster issue.
I had the same issue for the past 2 years, I have change both sending unit and fuel pump like 3 times after infiniti recommended me to do so, I have bought a second cluster at the scrap and i was having the same problem so I went to a local garage they check wires and everyting seems fine until the head mechanic said we will change the AMPLIFIER CONTROL AIR CONDITIONER 277601NM6D and it resolved my problem. No problem after that so check that first. I bougt that part for $15 at the scrap and I was told its almost $200-300 new.
Sorry to revive this thread and responding to a 4 year old post, but hope that FlipMode responds
So looking at the wiring diagram I see the instrument cluster (combination meter) DOES go to the A/C Auto Amplifier on pin 14, but I think that is driving the Speedo Needle, so I am very confused how it would affect the fuel gauge needle...but Flip says it DID.
I found one on ebay for like $8.00 and willing to try it...NOW how to get to it....from what I can tell it is behind the clock. How do you remove the clock? 2005_G35_Sedan_FSM_Driver_Information_di.pdf
So I have used two different people on eBay (the one in NJ mentioned above and the one in Texas) to fix a cluster and both did not do a very satisfactory job in my opinion and I have found that the solution to fix this problem and some other problems like dim led lights (very common with the odometer LCD display) are quite simple if you know how to carefully remove the cluster from the car, disassemble it correctly and have decent soldering skills, which neither of the other guys seem to possess, in my opinion after inspecting their work. I also don't like people taking advantage of other people's troubles and pains when they know the fix, but will not share it with the thousands if not 100 of thousands G35 owners having the exact same problem because Infiniti / Nissan had obvious manufacturing problems with their clusters. I will not go into the details about their work, but I can tell you based on my experience that both did not seem to know their way around the G35 cluster as you would expect and based on their claims within their postings. If you want to tackle this on your own read on because I will tell you the exact resistor contacts that you should inspect and re-solder. I am not going to go through all the specifics on how to remove the cluster from the car or disassemble the cluster because there are videos out there that already cover those two items. I am going to show you the cluster's circuit board and the soldering locations. A few notes first though, you will need the following tools before you get started:
phillips screwdriver (used to disassemble the cluster)
fine flat trim tool to separate the plastic gauge material from the board (flat head screw driver will work also if you are careful)
good soldering iron with a very small tip (and steady hands)
a magnifying glass because the soldering points are very small at least the led odometer ones are.
So here's the moment you have all been waiting for so lets get right to the point.
Here's a picture of the front right side of the cluster board (2006 G35). All the points circled in red show the resistors where the solder joints can go bad and separate from the board causing the erratic problems with the fuel gauge. As a reference I have circled the MPH gauge motor in blue and the fuel gauge motor in purple.So there you have it, very simple and easy, but not for the faint of heart because you can easily ruin a cluster if you do not have the proper patience and skills.
So now lets get to the led lights for the odometer display issues - dimming, flickering, or just completely not working.
This is the back left side of the board, which is a little bit easier to get to because you do not need to remove the two LCD displays to fix it. On the back side of the board on the bottom left side where you see the pins from the odometer LCD display sticking through you will see a lot of small (smaller than the front side shown above for the fuel gauge fix) resistors that need to be re-soldered to fix the cold joints. All the resistors in the red rectangle should be re-soldered if your odometer display is not lit up like it should be.
Soldering hints: Because one side of the resistor may not be attached (the very problem described here), it is possible for the resistor to move / shift while trying to re-solder it. It is best to apply light pressure and maybe even hold the resistor with a small tool that would not damage the resistor while trying to solder the first side you are working on. This happened to me twice while I was repairing a board so I started to hold them in place when re-soldering the first side. It shouldn't happened on the second side because your new soldering joint (if done correctly) will hold it in place.
After you are done, you and your G35 will be able to enjoy the good life again.
If you need the proper method for disassembling the cluster, let me know so you don't end up doing stupid things like the person in Texas who thinks you have to drill through the plastic to remove the screw underneath it. like in the following picture: It may be hard to see in the picture, but it is quite obvious when looking at it directly. He drilled through the plastic cover to unscrew the screw underneath it. This is not necessary because you should remove the whole plastic display piece then you unscrew the screws to get to the board. He obviously was clueless on how to work on the G35 cluster. He then covers the hole with black electrical tape like that is professional work, not. Please don't do stupid things like this idiot.
I hope you enjoyed this post and good luck, if you decide to tackle this on your own. I spent way too many hours and money trying to research and fix this problem so I thought I would share it so you wouldn't have to go through the same thing I went through.
performed this fix and it got my fuel gauge from reading zero all the time to it kinda working. It will tell me its full but I see fluctuations and it never reaches empty. Shows almost a 1/4 tank when empty (I had to learn that the hard way).
What isnt mentioned tho, is how to get the needles recalibrated. Not knowing better, I had to power the cluster then put the needles back to a position that I thought was correct. my speedo is about 5mph faster and the tach is about 500 off. dont push the needles in too far as they will touch the display cover if its not 100% flat when you reinstall it. Also those little spacers under the needles will fly off if youre not careful. One went awol and I just reinstalled without it. found it a couple days later😂
I know I should get a FSM
performed this fix and it got my fuel gauge from reading zero all the time to it kinda working. It will tell me its full but I see fluctuations and it never reaches empty. Shows almost a 1/4 tank when empty (I had to learn that the hard way).
What isnt mentioned tho, is how to get the needles recalibrated. Not knowing better, I had to power the cluster then put the needles back to a position that I thought was correct. my speedo is about 5mph faster and the tach is about 500 off. dont push the needles in too far as they will touch the display cover if its not 100% flat when you reinstall it. Also those little spacers under the needles will fly off if youre not careful. One went awol and I just reinstalled without it. found it a couple days later😂
I know I should get a FSM
Read posts 88, 126, 127 in this thread to learn about putting the needles back in the right place. There's a self test mode you put the combo meter in to put the all the gauge stepper motors to a know position, then you put your needles on. But you should have looked at your self test needle locations before you removed the needles because the position doesn't always match what the FSM says exactly. But it will get you close and you can make adjustments if needed.
Well, we had '05 and '06 Gs and I ended up replacing both car's fuel level senders around 60k as they were causing the gauges to read erratically.
For me (beginner) it was a fairly elaborate operation, and working with gasoline isn't fun, but it fixed the problem. I bought new replacement units, both sides, the one on the fuel pump snaps onto the unit.
I was surprised to realize that the system is simply live electrical wiring operating in gasoline (yikes!) and the sender's "sweepers" are actually open and exposed and certainly bound to collect contamination over the years and fail as we are all experiencing. The gauge in the dash simply interprets the signals from both senders to determine how much gas you have left, but if either one sends bogus signals it can't do it's job.
All this to say odds are 2:1 that the senders (2) are the problem not the gauge (1). Cleaning them is at best a temporary situation as the gasoline is not only contaminating the contacts but probably working as a solvent and removing the metal etchings of these sweepers to the point where they just can't do their jobs. Would have made more sense if the actual sweepers were up above the seals somehow but ... no.
I replaced the one on the passenger side because that’s what every freaking YouTube video showed. Didn’t even discuss the drivers side.
so now my gauge works a little better but I still don’t trust it.
So now time to find the right part number for the driver side. 2007 g35 coupe.
There's steps in this thread for how to actually test the units to see if they're bad without throwing parts at the car. All it takes is a digital multimeter.
Has anyone tried to resolder and repair the cluster for tiptronic mode? Or is there anywhere I can find which resistors are affect the tiptronic controls.
