So I have a new-to-me 2006 5at g35 sedan, that when driving 'normally' eats about 2 qts of oil between changes.

-No fouled plugs
-No oil leaks on the heads, ground or exhaust
-No fouled exhaust tips...

What can I do about this ? And where the hell is it going ?

I see the TSB on the revup.. but obviously not a revup. right at 100k and about to do a plug and coil-on-plug replacement but i so not expect that to have any effect.

The car was serviced from day one to me buying it by Infiniti in Beverton Oreogn.

Using 5-30 conventional oil.

 

If its new to you, any chance of it being low to being with?

Just to confirm and make sure everything is on the up and up. You are putting 5 FULL QUARTS of oil in this. And how far are you driving between oil changes?

Are you low on the dipstick or measuring what comes out?

 

tldr version : full 5q from nissan oil change (hot stick) .. a little over a week later down almost 1 quart with another 1500 to oil change.

Longer version : Bought from the dealership with a full stick (cold) and i drove it a few weeks and saw it was a quart down.. thought nothing of it and put a quart in of the same brand (penz).

oil change came up and had it done at a local nissan dealership and it sticked (hot) even money.

Being a second gen but early VQ i kept my eye on it as i full expected it to sip about 75% of a quart over the conventional's 3000 miles.. but low and behold with moderate normal driving (road trips) were doing a quart about every 1000 miles. that raised my eyebrows. hence me asking..

 

You cannot check oil on this car hot. It has to cool down a long time to get an accurate read. I usually wait 30 minutes before checking oil levels. Anything less and you will get a bad read.

If you continue to burn oil i would go with a thicker oil, up to 10w40.

 

5ATs can burn oil also, it's not just revups, for the same reasons - bad piston rings or something.

Try replacing PCV valve and changing to 10w-30 and see if that helps.

 

5AT's can burn too.


I use about 2 qts per oil change. been this way for about 100K miles now.

Every 1000 miles i just add 1/2 qt or so and that keeps up with the pace. It's been consistent so i'm not worried and that extra $10 in oil beats replacing the engine

 

I kinda suspected the hot stick might be part of it. I have a feeling it was half a quart down at the dealership as i was thinking the same thing based on reading here and the PDF of the car.

10-40 sounds reasonable.. it does not get that cold here i may opt to stair step it and go all 30w 1st.. thoughts ?

 

^ hmmm cheap plastic bits ... as long as i can reach it i may opt for this... Let me see if much of a pain in the *** the it is to get to the valve.

that brings up a question i may know but need to confirm.. many advise to not touch the throttle body, now do we mean not 'unhook' the sending untit/power from the throttle body or don't even think of taking it off the intake ..

regards and thanks to all..

 

WAIT WAIT .... MF$%^& you know what this ties in nicely. About a month a ago i was ripping around and heard a pop followed by a terrible smell. I thought it was the guy in front of me..

when i next checked my oil i 'found my oil cap' in the master cylinder bay.. and oil was *everywhere*

originally i thought it was loose from the oil change and worked loose.. now i think it popped of under some heat..

 

PCV is easy to replace. It's on the valve cover towards the front on the passenger side. Take off the engine cover and it's simple.

For throttle body. Unhook battery, then unplug TB, the remove it from the intake and go to town cleaning it. After re-installing everything, you'll have to do all of the reset procedures (ECU, TB closed, idle air learn, etc.) DON'T move the butterfly what it's still connected to the car, that seems to be what screws people up.

 

Sweet. Maybe that will do the trick then for the Oil Consumption.

Thanks for the tips on the Tb as well. Sounds like the best bet is to not even mess with it if its reasonably clean.

 

To add to the previous post.. i was thinking of the plenum swap for the 5/16 spacer since it actually seems to do good at the wheels.. but after reading a few stories on TB issues I gave it some pause.

it sounds like as long as I disconnect the - negative terminal, and do not unplug\unhook the TB and or touch any of the moving parts i should be able to do the job. thoughts ?

Not looking for a miracle as it is a non-rev AT.. but a 10 or so extra hp for 200$ is a pretty hard to beat proposition for 45 minutes work. I plan on getting a tune as well later for the throttle clamping that occurs closer to redline as well and hope that will add to the plenum swap.

all in all im going mild and juts planning on a dry AFE, plenum then tune.

one question on 'tunes' .. since this is a non-rev I don't expect any results beyond a few hp and and fixing the the partially closing throttle at high rpm.. but is it even worth upping the rev limiter at all?

Seems to me the hp/tq curve for the AT's just drops off like a rock even with a tune after about 6500rpm .. in my semi Conservative mind it seems like I should just make sure the AFM is good with the plenum and AFE filter and not even bump the rpm range. what do you think ? 6900rpm even worth it ??

I did however plan on dropping the revlimiter from a 200rpm cutoff to a 100rpm cutoff

 

Mine would eat 1-2 qts every 4-5k. Never got any worse so I didn't worry about it. But I'd CHECK the level every time you got gas

 

Thanks all... doing a pcv swap and will check that out over the next month.

 

after the pcv swap, and going to track day i am on track for being half a quart down after 2 weeks, which is right on track for 1x month oil change.

this matches my expectations of this version of the DE block eating a little oil under more than average load so i am calling it solved

thanks all!

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