G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Overheated, engine probably toast

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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 02:07 PM
  #31  
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Rockauto has tyc fans for $35 each.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2014 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bigc
I'd get a compression check. If your results are even across the cylinders and are reasonably close to factory specs (mid-180s is factory standard, below 140 you might be in trouble; don't ask how i know this ) you might be OK. Change your oil, drain & refill on the coolant (make sure you bleed air out of the system...a lot), and keep an eye out for codes. If you have an auto you should also check your AT fluid (if your temps were as high as your wife mentioned then the stock cooler may not have been doing a good job cooling your ATF).
Great advice ^ I'd do a drain & fill on your AT also! What you assumed was a destroyed engine can be fixed by replacing a fan and fluids, your new middle name should be "Lucky!" Here's an teach your wife what your gauges should look like, temp gauge half way and nothing red or alerts on the dash...Gary
 

Last edited by gary c; Aug 3, 2014 at 09:59 AM.
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 03:58 PM
  #33  
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Hey, this is sorta-related. My coolant on the 6MT always goes to the "MIN" line in the reservoir and stays there. I can fill it to the MAX, and it'll be down to the MIN in a day or two, but once there, it stays at the min, I can leave it for a month or more and the level hasn't ever gone down further, and the radiator is always full. No overheating problems at all (except when the motor went out, a known issue), no sweet smell of the exhaust and no coolant in the oil.

It's like my car is only happy with the minimum.

It did is with the old motor and the new motor.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 08:13 PM
  #34  
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Started to pull the fan unit out today. Took the opportunity to stick in the new air filter that I’ve had sitting around forever.

What’s the trick to disconnect the electrical plugs? It’s a bit hard to see how these connect and so far I haven’t found a release point poking around with various screwdrivers.

Do I have to remove anything else other than the air filter housing? It seems like a lot of wiggling and some cursing will be required…


cheers
SunnyGL
 
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 11:41 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by SunnyGL
Started to pull the fan unit out today. Took the opportunity to stick in the new air filter that I’ve had sitting around forever.

What’s the trick to disconnect the electrical plugs? It’s a bit hard to see how these connect and so far I haven’t found a release point poking around with various screwdrivers.

Do I have to remove anything else other than the air filter housing? It seems like a lot of wiggling and some cursing will be required…


cheers
SunnyGL
Remove the overflow tank and bracket that holds it (2 10mm bolts). It makes it WAAAYYY easier.

The plugs have a tab on one side. Press it down with a small screw driver and tug on it at the same time. Make sure you cut the zip ties before tho, cuz they make it harder to separate them when they're in tact.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 04:30 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
Hey, this is sorta-related. My coolant on the 6MT always goes to the "MIN" line in the reservoir and stays there. I can fill it to the MAX, and it'll be down to the MIN in a day or two, but once there, it stays at the min, I can leave it for a month or more and the level hasn't ever gone down further, and the radiator is always full. No overheating problems at all (except when the motor went out, a known issue), no sweet smell of the exhaust and no coolant in the oil.

It's like my car is only happy with the minimum.

It did is with the old motor and the new motor.

Your tank could have a leak towards the top side of the tank.

Originally Posted by Gdirtyfive55
Remove the overflow tank and bracket that holds it (2 10mm bolts). It makes it WAAAYYY easier.

The plugs have a tab on one side. Press it down with a small screw driver and tug on it at the same time. Make sure you cut the zip ties before tho, cuz they make it harder to separate them when they're in tact.
DO NOT CUT THE ZIPS

simply use a needle nose and pinch the ends and it'll come out without a problem.


Sunny I am glad you came here before doing something irrational like tossing out the car to a yard or having the stealership rip you. Lot's of great advice and wisdom here on the forum.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 01:01 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Eric@TCGMiami
Your tank could have a leak towards the top side of the tank.
I'll double-check, but haven't ever noticed leaking... may only happen when things are hot.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 02:53 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Eric@TCGMiami
Your tank could have a leak towards the top side of the tank.



DO NOT CUT THE ZIPS

simply use a needle nose and pinch the ends and it'll come out without a problem.


Sunny I am glad you came here before doing something irrational like tossing out the car to a yard or having the stealership rip you. Lot's of great advice and wisdom here on the forum.
I’m glad too as I was resigned to the possibility that it was next to worthless, but I still have to get a compression check to be completely sure.

Now this 10 minute job to remove the old fan assembly… yep got the connectors undone by pushing the tab in.
I found I needed to disconnect the radiator hose to be able to maneuver the assembly out - it’s a tight fit with a/c piping (?) on the left limiting space. There are still 2 connectors lower down, a grey one that looks like it plugs onto the side of the unit for the right side fan wires and a zip tie (?) at the bottom for the left wire bundle. I got it half way out and access to those connectors is now a bit tight. Some advice please on the best way to release these.

cheers
SunnyGL
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 02:45 AM
  #39  
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There's a 10mm bolt on the a/c line under the intake air filter canister... It's best to remove the MAF and the canister you'll have so much more room.

Once you do that,

Remove the upper hose (not needed but it'll make life easier).

once that's out if you choose to do so it'll be cake.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 10:13 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Eric@TCGMiami
There's a 10mm bolt on the a/c line under the intake air filter canister... It's best to remove the MAF and the canister you'll have so much more room.

Once you do that,

Remove the upper hose (not needed but it'll make life easier).

once that's out if you choose to do so it'll be cake.
Yes, first thing I removed was the air filter canister. Took out the overflow tank too although not sure that's completely necessary. Part of the fan assembly runs under the radiator hose so I think you have to push the hose off otherwise you can't maneuver it out. It's halfway out on the drivers side sticking up. It should come out completely when I disconnect the wire bundles. I'm hoping the right hand connector will pop off with a screwdriver, Not sure how the left hand one is connected - it's right at the bottom of the assembly and feels like a zip tie, - I can't really see it. It's not as easy as I expected and I'm trying not to break anything so am proceeding with some care - still very much an amateur mechanic!

cheers
SunnyGL
 
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