Coming along nicely, thanx for the update!

 

Ok, so i jumped the gun a bit. Couldn't wait to work on it a bit after work today.

SInce i wanted the shift **** to click into the boot like OEM, i ordered an M35/45 shifter assembly off Ebay. Cost me $50. Oh well. G37 shift boot rings will work too and are cheaper.

ANyway, i took my shifter bezel out and removed the G35 shift boot. I also broke down the M35/45 shift boot to this.


Not hard to do, not going to explain it all. Plenty of threads on how to remove the 05-06 shifter bezel and removing the boot after that is pretty easy.

Anyway, i swapped the trim rings out. Basically flip the boot inside out and remove the little snap ring. The M35/45 ring is bigger, so it fits tight on the boot, but it goes on fine. A little tricky but took me 5 mins to do. Not a huge deal really. I posted a link with a few shots of these steps earlier in this thread.

But here's the result. The M45 **** snaps into the boot like OEM.



Teaser shot with the M45 **** and shift boot ring.



Anyway, all that's left to do is dremel the new slots for the snap ring to lock the **** in place. I should have that taken care off over the weekend. After that, i'll adjust the white pin's height and report back a number that works best. I'm also probably going to have to put a few wraps of electrical tape around the metal shifter lever. Seems the G35 lever is slightly smaller in diameter than what is on the M45, so the **** rocks a bit. I figure some bands of tape will reduce/eliminate this. Easier than machining a spacer.

Almost done.

 

Haven't wrapped this up yet. Still trying to get my hands on a battery powered dremel or find somewhere I can drive with power nearby.

Will give my update as to how I finished.

Finished product shot is same as above. I'll just add pic of notches when I do it.

 

Haven't cut the notches yet, but I am driving around with the ****. Just need to hold it down when you shift gears. I'm just waiting to get the proper tool before I finish. I don't want to hack this up.

Anyway. These still count as finished shots because the remaining work is under the boot

 

My Component parts list:

M45 sport **** (black leather with white stitching): 34910-EJ70A
Shifter Pin: 34951-1LA0A
M35/45 shift boot top trim ring: Ebay/Boneyard (Or use 07+ G35/G37 shifter trim ring)

Modified shifter pin by drilling out with 7/32" drill bit, and then installing on shifter height so that the pin protrudes 25mm above the black metal shifter lever.

Slide **** onto shaft and mark where new clip will latch onto black shifter lever. Carefully cut slot to that clip will lock into place and hold the ****.

 

That looks sick! So, no more button to depress? Just push down on the **** and it'll activate the release to switch gears?

 

No not exactly. There is a button just like stock.

But since I am lazy and haven't dremeled the two slots to actually secure the shift **** to the lever, i'm forced to press down on the **** and then depress the lever.

Basically I'm not done, but posted finished pics. I figure why wait.

Still need to detail out the final steps. I'll get to it perhaps tonight. I'm just a busy guy.

 

Ok, so I wrapped this up tonight. Was pretty easy.

I used a sharp pick to mark where I needed to make my cuts. Basically the shift **** bottoms out on the top of the black metal lever. Simply press the **** down fully, and make your marks. Then remove the **** and cut. I used a hacksaw blade in my hand to make the cut. Was pretty easy.

I removed the shifter bezel to avoid damage.


I simply made the cuts on both sides, and tried the ****. I kept going until I could no longer pull the **** off by hand and needed to remove the clip, like the OEM ****. You def do not want to cut high here, or the **** will rock. Measure 4 times, cut once.

Once the **** is on, you'll notice it wiggles a little bit. Simple solution was a wrap of tape about and below the cuts. This took up the slack and make the **** "tight"


Other than that...that's it. The only non-stock thing about the **** is that it twists along the axis about 5 degrees or so. Not bad, but I think i can fix it by adding some material in the slit where the **** rides down. Doesn't bother me enough to worry about now.

But works great, feels great and looks nice! FInished pics are pretty much the same as above.