G35x awd front wheel bearing/hub assembly
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Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 33
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I did my front driver side last week after noticing some growling. I bought mine from this seller on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/usr/worldpartsp...p2047675.l2559
It list the part as used but it's only the hub that is used. They actually clean up the hub so it looks like new and press it into the new bearing and it was only $99. It even came with a 90 day warranty.
https://www.ebay.com/usr/worldpartsp...p2047675.l2559
It list the part as used but it's only the hub that is used. They actually clean up the hub so it looks like new and press it into the new bearing and it was only $99. It even came with a 90 day warranty.
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 5
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Great Shape with no modifications
Part that sit on the Hub
when I pick up the hub the wheelbearing comeout a bit. I dont think its normal. I took the bad bearing and it also did that any recomendations. I believe the hub is what is wrong
any help would be great!!!
The race is popping out of that bearing. It should press back down flush if you can.
If it doesn't press down flush with the bearing easily, i'd replace the bearing with another. You really don't want to force it down if something is not installed correctly. That's how these bearings are installed. A cage and bearings is inserted, packed with grease, and then two races are pressed into the bearing from both sides. When you install the hub, it pressed into the topside race and into the backside race. Friction of the two races pressed onto the hub hold the entire thing together.
When I've separated the hub from a bearing, that race always came with it. I would then need to cut it off.
You can see in this pic, the race is flush. When you press the hub in, it may or may not seat itself properly. (Plese note: the hub isn't pressed down all the way in this pic)
On the backside, there is a dust shield to protect the race, but you can see here I position a small piece of Aluminum to contact only the race. So when you press the hub into the opposite race, this pushes the far side race up into the hub. Both races are then locked in place.
The FSM does spec a force to press to. I would imagine that going too tight, or too loose could potentially cause premature failure.
https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sed..._Sedan/fax.pdf
Page FAX-15 states 11,000lb of force, and has a diagram showing a cutaway of how to support the hub, and where to press the bearing on, which is exactly how I do it in the above pic.
If it doesn't press down flush with the bearing easily, i'd replace the bearing with another. You really don't want to force it down if something is not installed correctly. That's how these bearings are installed. A cage and bearings is inserted, packed with grease, and then two races are pressed into the bearing from both sides. When you install the hub, it pressed into the topside race and into the backside race. Friction of the two races pressed onto the hub hold the entire thing together.
When I've separated the hub from a bearing, that race always came with it. I would then need to cut it off.
You can see in this pic, the race is flush. When you press the hub in, it may or may not seat itself properly. (Plese note: the hub isn't pressed down all the way in this pic)
On the backside, there is a dust shield to protect the race, but you can see here I position a small piece of Aluminum to contact only the race. So when you press the hub into the opposite race, this pushes the far side race up into the hub. Both races are then locked in place.
The FSM does spec a force to press to. I would imagine that going too tight, or too loose could potentially cause premature failure.
https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sed..._Sedan/fax.pdf
Page FAX-15 states 11,000lb of force, and has a diagram showing a cutaway of how to support the hub, and where to press the bearing on, which is exactly how I do it in the above pic.
Last edited by Mustang5L5; Nov 1, 2018 at 11:30 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Great Shape with no modifications
The race is popping out of that bearing. It should press back down flush if you can.
If it doesn't press down flush with the bearing easily, i'd replace the bearing with another. You really don't want to force it down if something is not installed correctly. That's how these bearings are installed. A cage and bearings is inserted, packed with grease, and then two races are pressed into the bearing from both sides. When you install the hub, it pressed into the topside race and into the backside race. Friction of the two races pressed onto the hub hold the entire thing together.
When I've separated the hub from a bearing, that race always came with it. I would then need to cut it off.
If it doesn't press down flush with the bearing easily, i'd replace the bearing with another. You really don't want to force it down if something is not installed correctly. That's how these bearings are installed. A cage and bearings is inserted, packed with grease, and then two races are pressed into the bearing from both sides. When you install the hub, it pressed into the topside race and into the backside race. Friction of the two races pressed onto the hub hold the entire thing together.
When I've separated the hub from a bearing, that race always came with it. I would then need to cut it off.
Thank for the Advise. I did press the bearing in and its sitting all the way where it needa to. The concern I have is that when presses in I can lift the hub up and the section where it sit pops out a little. I have a new bearing too which is in the picture that one I can pull the bottom section of the bearing just a little bit with not enougg force.
Thank for the Advise. I did press the bearing in and its sitting all the way where it needa to. The concern I have is that when presses in I can lift the hub up and the section where it sit pops out a little. I have a new bearing too which is in the picture that one I can pull the bottom section of the bearing just a little bit with not enougg force.
Shouldn't be any movement at all.
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Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 19
Likes: 3
From: Alberta
G35x
Buddy. WTF?
I’m in canada so the dollars are different. I got the Timken’s off of rockauto ($293 with tax and shipping) and the hubs off eBay ($441 with tax and shipping). Every Infiniti dealership quoted me 2 hours labour per side, which was $600 in labour.
if I had bought the parts at Infiniti as well, it would have been over $2,000 (Canadian). They wanted ridiculous amounts for the oem hubs and bearings.
if I had bought the parts at Infiniti as well, it would have been over $2,000 (Canadian). They wanted ridiculous amounts for the oem hubs and bearings.
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Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 212
Likes: 23
From: Saskatoon
I remember when I bought the front bearings they were expensive, even now they're $120 CAD on rockauto for the Timken's. Shipping to my Saskatchewan PO box sucks as well. I was making more money than I knew what to do with so I bought new hubs instead of taking the chance with pressing the bearings onto the old hubs. Good thing I did though, the hubs were rusted to **** and several splines were worn down and rounded.
But yes, if all you need is the bearings then you can do this job for ~$200 if you don't need high end bearings.
But yes, if all you need is the bearings then you can do this job for ~$200 if you don't need high end bearings.
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G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
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May 31, 2020 01:26 PM