This seems to be the most comprehensive thread on this subject matter that I've seen so far. In 2016 when the fuel shortage hit NC, I ran out of gas looking for a station that sold premium. Put about a gallon of regular in and to get home. Shortly after, my fuel gauge stopped working properly. Goes through the motions from F to E, but none of it is accurate. I've been doing the 300 miles tripometer reset since then. Within the last month, my check engine light has stayed on and the code was P0462. From reading the posts in this thread, it seems like my problem my be the sending units or the contacts at least since my fuel gauge has been reading inaccurate for about 2.5 years and not I have a CEL.

Has everyone been getting a CEL for P0462 at the same time the fuel gauge stops working?

 

Adding my name to the fuel gauge list! Here's my saga - and where I'm at. Maybe this info helps but I haven't fixed it yet, so... appreciate any ideas.

2006 G35x.

Around 100,000 miles the fuel gauge stopped reading accurately. Same as everyone else - would read full when filled up, then jump to different levels every time the car was started. I just began using trip meter to avoid running empty and lived with it.

At this point it wasn't a NY state inspection issue (no check engine light) so I decided to live with it. During my last inspection which I did at an Infiniti dealer service department they also did a "fuel system diag" for $75 to see if they could tell me what the issue was. They wrote this on their report: "need to replace controller amplifier, part currently not available." The service rep explained to me how common this problem was but that Infiniti doesn't make the part and no third party has stepped in to make one, either. He advised me there were other ways to fix it that could cost thousands to try and might not even solve it. I assume he was referring then to senders/cluster as everyone else is going through - but I didn't even ask at the time - I just took that advice and lived with it...

Then around 115,000 miles I got the P0462 "Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit Low" code as confirmed and check engine light on. Also showing P0463 "Fuel Level Sensor A Circuit High" code pending and a P0183 code which is "Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High" pending as well. Check engine light on so now I'm facing a failed inspection unless I correct it.

Went to another Infiniti service department this week and they quoted me $500 to diagnose if the fuel sensor issues - I guess they'll pull the cluster and the senders to test and determine if it's one or other.
If Cluster, will be an additional $1700 to replace and if its the senders it would be an additional $400 to do both (or about $250-300 to do one). Most likely one or the other, I'm told.
They also said I need a new throttle body (that's going to be $400).

Damn - book value of the car is less than the cluster repair alone... I don't really want to go out and get a new or used car right now, either.

Any guesses or advice? The fuel gauge wasn't working with no check engine light for a while - now I've got the check engine light and a bunch of codes thrown. ugh.

 

Sounds like you are having actual PUMP ISSUES since the ECM has detected actual voltage problems.

I recommend to fix only the pumps (main and sub if they're both bad) and see if that also corrects your fuel level problem. Either way those codes being thrown are NOT caused by the instrument cluster, if the cluster ends up being bad then either replace it yourself or have an independent shop replace it with a used one off eBay. I definitely would never pay $1700 for a new cluster.

EDIT: Wait they want to charge you $500 just to TEST the fuel pump and sub pump? Just replace the things, they're obviously having problems since the ECM is throwing codes.

Don't worry about the throttle body for now, dealerships typically recommend it because it's an easy way to steal money from people and they can make a convincing argument about how "buildup on the TB can cause poor performance and fuel economy and lies lies and more bullshit and sounds pretty". If you're really concerned about it just pay for an intake cleaning where they suck a bottle of SeaFoam through the intake tract, or do it yourself, super easy.

Don't take this the wrong way but I think your service shop is bending you over hard with prices like that. Both pumps are easily replaced in 1 hour of shop time, it takes 30 seconds to remove the rear seat, 5 minutes to unplug harnesses and fuel lines, 15 minutes for the main pump, 15 minutes for the sub pump, then another 5 minutes to plug everything in and reinstall the seat.

If they're charging you more than 2 hours of labor then they're just stealing your money, it's a very easy repair. The pump and sub pump are fairly expensive if you are buying OEM components.

I would ask for an itemized cost breakdown.

 

Ok, reviving this thread AGAIN. I'm at the point where I know its the cluster. Resistance good on sending units (and replacement sending units I tried anyway). 3-80 on passenger side, 3-40 on driver side. My gas gauge sits at full most of the time then eventually drops to around 5/8. Sounds like I need a cluster repair, but I can't be without my car for up to two weeks. So, I'm just going by trip odometer. But then... I saw this video


It seems so simple!

Now I'm thinking.. 1) damn.. could I do that and not f it up?
2) which resistors would I need to re-solder to fix my non working left turn signal and cruise set lights

Has anybody tried this?

 

I tried it based on the post mentioned in that video, but I'm terrible with the soldering iron (and electronics in general), so I'm sure I didn't do it right. On the plus side, I didn't f*ck anything else up in the process - though I did have to realign the needles a few times as I tried to place them in the 'test' position rather than at zero.

After my first attempt I bought flux paste and tip cleaner, but never got around to giving it another shot. Might give it a go now that I've seen this video.

 

I have a screenshot of the resistors that need to be re-soldered to fix the fuel gauge issue. All the ones circled in red.

 

Here's the link to the original post for Scorpio's screenshot. You can see the detail much better.

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ml#post7130715

 

Scorpio,
Ever get yours working?

 

I ended up buying a couple used clusters to see if one of em might be good. I found one in there that has everything working, including the MM. My only issue is that the LED backlights for the odometer will flicker sometimes, but Im just gonna have to live with it.

I installed it 2 days ago so we will see how long it holds up. Ive been testing it and so far it hasnt missed a beat.

I have 3 spare clusters Im gonna be getting rid of. All of them have MM issues along with a few other stuff.


How about yours? U figure anything out?

 

^^^^^^

Whoops, I thought this was the manumatic issue thread. If you were asking about my fuel gauge, yes it works fine. 3 of my spare clusters had bad fuel gauges, and re-soldering those resistors got them all working perfectly again.

 

This might just give me the false confidence I need to try this.

 

Just go slow and youll be alright. I’ve become a pro at it already haha.

And if anyone needs to re-align their needles, here is exactly where they should be when in test mode:

 

I plugged my dash back in after I had the clear poly part removed, then cut little strips of white electrical tape and put it under where the needle sits in the TEST position. Then drew on either side of the needle with an ink pen.

Seemed to work good, just clean that layer of the cluster with rubbing alcohol gently before putting the polycarbonate back on because there might be some sticky residue from the tape. Painters tape probably would have worked better but I wanted to make damned sure it wasn't going to accidentally peel off before I was done.

 

Oh you're right! I got confused about what thread this was too. I was asking about your MM mode.... just in the wrong thread. Glad you got it working.

 

Happy to report back that my fuel gauge has been fixed!!