I Just replaced my Fan and Fan clutch on my Own now i need to swap radiator.
(Problem is ) last 2 times i changed radiator car was not drivable because DUMB a$$ air was still in system. Two weeks a piece it took to get all air out.

I DO NOT want to go threw the same $hhit again. Is there a propper or more effiencient way to replace fluids without getting so much air in system ?
I just would hate to wait another 2-3 weeks, mabey longer to get air out.

BTW i have a Leslie spill free funnel.

 

I think the better question is why would you be on your third radiator swap?

 

^^This

Also if you are talking about a Lisle funnel, if you follow it's instructions to a T you shouldn't need to bleed the radiator at all.

 

My fan clutch was bad and caused my Fan blade to chop my radiator up. I kept replacing the Fan blade, radiator, and pulley bracket but never replaced the Fan clutch , which im doing this time.

 

Just curious, have you ever did a radiator swap yourself? If so , so your telling me that when u followed instructions you didnt have air still trapped in system?

 

Installed a new radiator and thermostat last week, car has 137K miles. Used a regular funnel but kept it pushed down hard enough during refilling to keep air from coming in any place other than through the spout with the fluid. I had to bleed it for about a minute and it's good to go. I've had my car 7 years and have used the Lisle funnel numerous times when replacing new fluid and NEVER had to bleed the system.

 

Best way to fill the radiator is thru the upper hose. Fill as much as you can thru the upper rad hose, fill radiator then start the car with the radiator cap off. Once it gets to full operating temp turn the car off and start continuously squeezing the lower radiator hose. Once you feel the hose get hot you know the thermostat is open.

Once you know the thermostat is open take off the bleeder screw, then keep squeezing the lower hose and you should see the radiator coolant level start to go down. Fill it back up and start the car again; run to full operating temp, turn the car off and fill rad and overflow as needed. Put the cap on and wait for the car to cool down completely.

After its cooled, check radiator and overflow level; fill as needed. Start it up, put heater on full blast and make sure you have heat (at full op temp). Take it for a spin, keep an eye on your temp guage and as long as your heater is blowing hot air you should be good to go, but be sure to check your overflow and radiator levels once it's cooled again. Fill if needed.

 

thanks a lot. much appreciated. I'll give a try. new radiator should be here today.

 

The Top of the Lower hose is Hot but bottom of the hose is still cold .Not getting hot heat either? Should heater be on while running the car to operating temperature?

 

I run it at full blast thru the whole process. Fan on 5 bars and at 90 degrees. If you're not getting heat there's still air in there. If you drive around don't go far from home til you got heat.

 

Fixed.

Ran it while slowly letting air from bleeder valve, gave me hot heat. Result no overheating