Good day! Need to replace the starter relay switch in IPDM. Is there anywhere you can buy just that switch? I understand you can get a whole new IPDM but don't those cost about $500? Please give me a holler, if you would?!! Tks much!!!

 

You should be able to pick one up at any parts house, that relay is not unique to just the G35 it's used on almost every Nissan in production. Just tell them make/model/year and that you need the starter relay. M.

 

Cleric670 - thanks man for the quick reply!! Maybe I'm over complicating it. I'll get down Monday morning at local part place. Post what I get from them. I had been told by dealer that you gotta buy the whole IPDM - didn't sell just that relay. They gave me a used one at no charge about 2 yrs ago, got exact same prob now as before. (no crank, but starts when I jump the posts on the starter - just not fun in a suit!) Tks much!!!

 

If it won't crank on it's own but will when you jump start it that is probably just corroded lugs on the battery or an old dead battery.

 

Cables good and batt good, when I said “jump” I meant down under on the solenoid/starter. Bypassing the switches. I did get a new relay switch this morning from little parts store. Same amp rating. Started 3 times but now no go! Full power, everything lights up. Get one single “click” but no crank. If she sits overnight, starts in morning but you get 1 a day it seems. Ignition switch or something like that?

 

Probably a weak battery, take it down to a shop that will load bank test the battery (the cart they wheel out to your vehicle, they disconnect the battery but leave it in the vehicle when testing). Glad the relay issue is sorted out.

 

 

If the battery is new then I would investigate the rest of the power system of the vehicle.

Ground wire in the battery compartment has two points of attachment, one at the battery and another where the wire attaches to the chassis next to the battery. Next point is under the coolant reservoir (one 10mm bolt secures the reservoir then you can lift it straight up without disconnecting the tube) and is another 2-hole lug just like in the battery compartment, the other end of that wire is on the timing chain cover.

Positive wire in the battery compartment has 3 points of contact, one at the battery lug and TWO on the fusible link, fourth and final point of contact is on the starter itself.

Remove the lugs, clean with a wire brush, apply a little anti-oxidation grease and reassemble everything. You likely have corrosion on one or more of those points of contact that's causing your problem.

There may also be a little parasitic drain on the battery causing it to discharge slightly overnight, the biggest culprit seems to be the trunk mounted CD changer if you have the OEM equipment still installed.

 

You're a good soul! Tks much... I'll get to work on those connections. I don't think I got a power drain, not losing "juice". Previous battery I replaced over the weekend was 6+yrs old. Something funky going on. Plenty of power getting to the starter. No SES light but wonder if a cam shaft pos sensor could be telling system not to crank?? Replaced both with factory sensors about 4 yrs ago. Just no SES lights going on. I switched all the relays in the IPDM (low beam, high beam, ignition, starter). All seem ok, all work the other systems when i swap around the identical relays and hear the "click" in the little relays. Very good of you to help me trouble shoot!! Again, the weird thing is the car will start if I reach in wheel well and "jump" the two posts on that starter. Tks much!!

 

The cam/crank sensors won't stop the engine from CRANKING but the crank sensor could stop the vehicle from actually firing. It's possible you also have a failing starter so keep that in mind.

 

Good to know that cam/crank sensors won't stop it from cranking!! Rules those out. Yeah... wondering about the starter - it's 2 1/2 yrs old but a remanu from autozone. Maybe the solenoid on the starter?! I'll check the connections on that too! Power getting to the solenoid, maybe not connecting over with key turn to the starter. So when I jump the power from the "in" post on solenoid with a wrench over to post that takes it to the starter, again she fires up but that doesn't tell me if connection to the key is good at the solenoid. Maybe that line. I assume that come down from Key => IPDM Starter Rely => solenoid?? Which then connects the power from battery to starter? I owe ya!

 

So.... turns out it WAS the starter! Acted identical to previous problem when it was starter relay switch and starter motor was relatively new. I learned two things: 1. Super easy to test all the relays in the IPDM by just switching them in the other relay spots (low beam and high beam for example all use the identical relay) so switch starter relay in low beam and try the lights! 2. O'Reilly starters are junk. Lasted approx 2yrs. Got a new Hitachi from Rockauto for less (after core refund). Tks to Cleric670!! Out.

 

I am having a hard time finding the right part for my 08 G35X hr.pat #284B7JK00A sedan ,at,awd..anyone know where I could find one?

 

There are several for sale on ebay if you just search that part number. What's wrong with your original, water damage?

 

Yea ,I'm pretty sure is was snow damage..my friend left the hood open a bit and when I pulled the cover off the one under my dash water poured out.How can i tell if mines really blown?