I've thought it was the end before...
#1
I've thought it was the end before...
Hey everyone...
First off, thanks for all the help over the years.
I have a 2003 sedan that's now clicked over 320K. She's been a treat. But, unfortunately, there seems to be some structural issues, as of late:
1. Last oil change the guy said there was a "bad rack and pinion leak", despite the power steering fluid being full. I checked it out, and it didn't look good, but I'm not mechanic.
2. There are some suspension issues. I probably need new struts and shocks, but I don't even know if that can cause the type of wheel shake I experience at highway speeds. This is what concerns me the MOST, by far.
3. The rear rotors are in dire need of replacement, however with my manual tools, I was unable to remove the calipers in the back. I tried like hell, but no dice. I have brand new rotors in my garage, and I suppose with a new effort, I could probably get them off, but seriously, my effort last time was pretty astronomical. I eventually said screw it, replaced the pads, and kept the terribly warped rotors (they probably have 200K+ on them).
4. She needs new tires.
The CA registration id due in October, and I'm actually considering against it. Please help me convince myself otherwise. I love my car! (And I really want to break 350K!).
First off, thanks for all the help over the years.
I have a 2003 sedan that's now clicked over 320K. She's been a treat. But, unfortunately, there seems to be some structural issues, as of late:
1. Last oil change the guy said there was a "bad rack and pinion leak", despite the power steering fluid being full. I checked it out, and it didn't look good, but I'm not mechanic.
2. There are some suspension issues. I probably need new struts and shocks, but I don't even know if that can cause the type of wheel shake I experience at highway speeds. This is what concerns me the MOST, by far.
3. The rear rotors are in dire need of replacement, however with my manual tools, I was unable to remove the calipers in the back. I tried like hell, but no dice. I have brand new rotors in my garage, and I suppose with a new effort, I could probably get them off, but seriously, my effort last time was pretty astronomical. I eventually said screw it, replaced the pads, and kept the terribly warped rotors (they probably have 200K+ on them).
4. She needs new tires.
The CA registration id due in October, and I'm actually considering against it. Please help me convince myself otherwise. I love my car! (And I really want to break 350K!).
#3
Well, I basically fixed all those things with hand tools in my garage at ~125k. You can remove the calipers in the back with penetrating lube (AeroKroil is best but liquid wrench works well too) and a breaker bar no problem. You likely need all new bushings if they haven't been done before, so you'll need to pull every front suspension component apart and bring em to a mechanic to have new bushings pressed in - again quickly achievable with a breaker bar, a hammer, and a cheap electric impact. The rear is much more durable but with 320k miles I'm sure you've got some bad bushings.
If the body's good and the car's in good shape (which given it has 320k I'm guessing the engine is pretty well maintained) it seems worth it to keep, but a lot of work to fix. Buy a beater in the meantime if you do the work yourself because it'll be on jacks for awhile
If the body's good and the car's in good shape (which given it has 320k I'm guessing the engine is pretty well maintained) it seems worth it to keep, but a lot of work to fix. Buy a beater in the meantime if you do the work yourself because it'll be on jacks for awhile
Last edited by cswlightning; 08-18-2018 at 05:19 PM.
#4
Thanks guys. I actually also have an FX35, so it being on jack stands for a while isn't the worst thing. I think what I'll do is attempt to get the suspension bits back in good standing, then replace the rear rotors, and finally buy new tires.
Is the "leaking" rack and pinion an immediate concern if no fluids are actually low?
Is the "leaking" rack and pinion an immediate concern if no fluids are actually low?
#5
If you keep checking your fluid it should be fine, if the line goes you'll lose power steering but that's the extent of that. When you rebuild the front suspension (inner outer tie rods, LCA ball joints, LCA poly bushings, compression rods, upper control arms, end links, sway bar bushings, steering rack bushings) that will be the best time to replace the P/S rack with a used part. I'm not familiar with the whole process with the fittings and all but there are people on this forum who can walk you through the process if need be.
Are you on your original engine/transmission? What about the mounts?
Also, if you take pictures of components and post them here people will be happy to diagnose issues and give you advice for fixing things. I know I'd love to see what a 320k mile G35 suspension looks like.
Are you on your original engine/transmission? What about the mounts?
Also, if you take pictures of components and post them here people will be happy to diagnose issues and give you advice for fixing things. I know I'd love to see what a 320k mile G35 suspension looks like.
Last edited by cswlightning; 08-18-2018 at 05:21 PM.
#7
Thanks guys. I actually also have an FX35, so it being on jack stands for a while isn't the worst thing. I think what I'll do is attempt to get the suspension bits back in good standing, then replace the rear rotors, and finally buy new tires.
Is the "leaking" rack and pinion an immediate concern if no fluids are actually low?
Is the "leaking" rack and pinion an immediate concern if no fluids are actually low?
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