Hey! I'm new here. Rest easy knowing I'm not new to driving my beloved G35 however.
I used the search function and didn't find much on this problem that I am having.

My G has that common problem where sometimes the passenger window will roll up and down but sometimes it doesn't.

Originally, I put a new window motor and switch in but those did not affect the issue.

Usually to temporarily fix the issue, i have to unplug and replug the battery then the window works for long enough to close it.

I wanted to see if i could put a bypass switch in the window so that i dont have to constantly unplug and replug the battery or do a window reset every time my window gets stuck. I found a steady 12v power supply on the lock circuit in my front passenger door with my multimeter. I plugged it into the window motor and it successfully went up and down! I put a switch into the circuit and tried plugging in the battery and testing it again and as soon as I hit the switch, it made a high pitch squealing noise for the 3 seconds it took me to unplug everything.

The problem i am having now is that when i try to lock the car electronically via the buttons in the car, the key fob, or the key, it locks and then immediately unlocks all 4 doors. If i unplug the passenger door circuits entirely, the other 3 doors still lock and immediately unlock which indicates to me that i have messed up something elsewhere in the car.

It threw a code P1065 INFINITI - ECM Power Supply Circuit

The other electronics elsewhere on the car are working just fine including starting, headlights, power seats, etc...

Also, all of my door lock actuators were working fine before I messed this up.

Does anybody have any idea what could be wrong? I am looking for a good wiring diagram and power probe to start doing some forensics, but I haven't found enough to come to any conclusions. I am worried I might have to replace the ECM or body control module or both....

 

You're looking for the Factory Service Manual... http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2004/
I've never fixed anything like that before but I would start by testing power supply to the ECM with a digital multimeter, and if that checked out, the ECM itself. You could also figure out what the power wires you were messing with connect to and trace them back to a blown component.

After a few hours of that, I would pay the diagnostic fee and have it checked out by Nissan with consult II before you waste the next 2 weeks of your life. Make sure you tell them exactly what wires you were messing with so they can trace the problem back to the source. You definitely shorted something out and fried a computer component in your car... You're super lucky the car still drives and you've got a code to point you in the right direction!

Best of luck with your search, and don't forget to post up here when you find a fix or a workaround! I have a switch wired up to cut power to my driver side window box myself due to faulty wiring in the door somewhere which I haven't gotten around to fixing. Electrical issues are super annoying to fix.

 

Thanks for your response! Ill be sure to post up here once I find a fix. It'll be a while though because i'm still in the middle of going through my list of other parts of the car that need to be repaired. Got the timing chain in, next up is the rack & pinion, Front suspension arms and ball joints, clutch, and then this electrical issue i've caused.

Also, I've never brought my car to the dealer. I have a few questions. What is consult II? Also once I check the power supply to the ECM, how would I go about testing the ECM itself with a multimeter?

 

New timing chain? Damn... what happened/how many miles?
I've never brought a car to a dealer either, and only brought cars to a mechanic twice for things other than alignments. Consult II is Nissan's proprietary tool only the dealer has access to and it has all sorts of G35 specific troubleshooting procedures onboard for diagnosing electrical issues, it's the best shot at pinpointing exactly which component is returning faulty signals.

All the troubleshooting steps for the ECM are buried somewhere in the FSM, you'll have to search for them. It'll involve checking voltages and resistances at various terminals - you can also see what the dealer can do with Consult II as that's in there too. Again, I haven't ever had any problems like this and if I did I would probably just go straight to the dealer! I'm assuming it's the ECM because of the code but it might not be that simple, it could be another computer sending incorrect signals to the ECM making the car think the ECM is ****ing up.

 

You can also check your area for an independent Nissan / Infiniti service shop because the good ones will have a Consult II diagnostic rig.
I'm in SoCal and use Precision-Z in Canoga Park.

 

Thanks !

The timing chain was quite an event... It happened at 170,xxx miles while I was 2 hours away from home lol.
I had thought it was broken camshaft/crankshaft position sensor at the time, but actually my chain had stretched out and the right side tensioner had worn down incorrectly causing my chain to skip. I got lucky that my valves were ok.

It ended up being a cool project though, that feeling when it started up after I put the new chain kit in was pure excitement.