Back passenger side of engine HEATER HOSE, not on the block itself.

 

thanks guys i'll check it out
-cheers

 

hoses seemed full, and coolant topped in rad.
The bleeder is on the pass hose to the firewall/heater core?

Car also just light up the ses:
P0154 - O2 high volt bank2 sensor 1
P0174 - System too lean bank 2

I did notice on take off a couple times on Friday the care lost all power for a second, then picked up - i'll have to check over the intake.

 

Well it's already telling you one of the O2 sensors is burned up so why not just replace that first.

 

just seemed a little fishy with the motor just RnR'd, i'll quick look for any leaks - intake or exhaust manifold.

Lots of threads around what o2 sensor to replace with, bosch, oem, etc. with mixed success.
Rockauto seems to have economy and daily driver...ranging from 40-120CAD.

Any recommendations or brand to stay away from?

thanks

 

I use Bosch, they're the OEM supplier for most manufacturers A/F and O2 sensors. ACDELCO is a supplier for american vehicles and also makes good stuff. Nippon Denso is a good alternative (I think they're just called Denso now), Delphi is mostly an electronics manufacturer but they make a lot of OEM equipment as well so I'd trust them if I couldn't find any Bosch ones.

I stay away from most other brands though, my preference is:

- Bosch for O2 sensors and injectors
- NGK spark plugs
- Hitachi for most sensors
- ACDELCO/Delphi/Hitachi for random electronics
- Timken/Moog for bearings/bushings/joints/etc
- Fel Pro for hard gaskets, Permatex for everything else
- KYB/Monroe for struts/shocks
- Michelin/Toyo for tires
-Marine grease for everything, the extra moisture protection is well worth the extra cost.
-Any major brand of oil in the CORRECT VISCOSITY for the engine. Synthetic if it doesn't consume oil, conventional if it does (unless spec says to use synth or hybrid synth).
-K&N oil filters and air filters.

Anytime a rubber bushing fails I usually replace with a urethane one, I don't really have a preference on brand as long as the durometer rating is lower, like 75 or so, otherwise it's a lot less comfortable than a stock rubber bushing. The exception is motor mounts, tranny mounts, and on the G35 the differential bushings, I like a high durometer for those because you don't want your powertrain moving so like an 85 or so durometer rating.

Those brands all make great parts and meet or slightly exceed OEM equipment. There are plenty of options that make better than OEM parts but you usually start paying 2x-10x or more for those parts and unless the vehicle is used for making money and you can justify that level of component then just stick with OEM equivalent stuff which is usually good for 100k miles.

 

NTK o2 sensors are made by NGK...that's what i'm running albeit in my ART pipes...

 

Cleric, what is your thought behind conventional oil in a car that consumes oil?

 

Well it depends on HOW it's consuming it. If it's due to high rpms and the oil vapor being ingested via the PCV then oil type isn't going to make a difference. If it's due to ring wear and the motor was originally designed for conventional then use conventional. If it's due to valve guide wear then use whatever you want and start shopping for another motor or rebuild what you have.

If it consumes more than 1 qt per 1000 miles rebuild or replace.

High mileage conventional oil is good stuff, use it on a high mileage engine.

The only real benefit synthetic oil has (in a motor built for conventional) is tthe longer oil change interval.

 

Were the G35's originally designed to use conventional oil?

 

In a motor built around synthetic or hybrid synthetic they use different metals and hardening/coating techniques as well as different clearances and you need the smaller molecule to properly fill the microscopic gap. They typically also have less friction overall which leads to better economy and use ultra low viscosity oils like 0w-20 or 5w-20.

That's a VERY different type of motor and not a fair comparison to the VQ35DE. Just because those oils work great in those motors designed for them doesn't mean the same results from a motor that wasn't.

Synthetic is great is the VQ can handle it though without burning a bunch off. Longer oil change intervals are awesome but overall wear is the same.

 

Yes, Nissan was a really late adopter to synthetic oil, not until like 2015 or newer vehicles were they required to use synthetic. Nissan will call synthetic "ester oil" in the owners manual.

 

The other thing to think about is the cost of synthetic. If it is burning oil, you're just going to spend even more money pouring more synthetic in between oil changes. That doesn't seem like a prudent choice. Switching to synthetic isn't going to fix high oil consumption.

 

ok...so, took the car in to where they swapped the motor and they replaced the o2 sensor.
Drove ok on the way home, then at a light it hesitated and took off lighting up the dash like an xmas tree again.

codes are now:
P0037 - different o2 sensor?
P0335 - Crankshaft - i think this would explain the hesitation

thoughts on if this is all realted to the crankshaft sensor?
I'm done dealing with and dropping money at that shop.

 

Yes those symptoms are exactly what a bad cranks sensor does before it completely fails. Make sure to inspect the wiring harness and wires for damage and if you replace it only use OEM or Hitachi sensors.