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Hi guys! I drive a 2006 Inifinit G35x that has 114k miles on it. I have maintained it relatively well with oil changes, filling up gas, tire rotation, brand new battery, etc.
Last Friday night, I drove on the highway back home with no problem, shut my car off, restarted it cuz of waiting for a friend. But after I restarted and drove for 2 blocks, it started stuttering. As I came to a stop at the stop sign, engine completely shut off. Lights came on one after another, service engine light, battery light, engine oil light, brakes light. I was able to shift it to neutral so my friend could push the car off the street.
Second morning I tried to start it. The engine would crank but won't turn/start. I was not able to shift gears as the brakes were not pressable. It sounded exactly like when it was -50 in Minnesota and car wouldn't start. Gave it a jump, nothing happened. Towed it to the mechanic. After two days, he couldn't find anything (but the car still won't start). I'm panicking a little bit because he was suggesting me take it to the dealership.
Any idea why this could be? Again, as this car has been running pretty stable with good maintenance, I just don't think it's something huge. My mechanic thought it had something to do with the car alarm which I completely don't understand why and he believed the problem to be electrical.
Chronic problems with my car: gas gauge has always been bad on the dashboard but I keep monitoring my miles driven; airbag light and tire pressure light have always been on for no reason. Service engine light came on a month ago that said faulty mass airflow sensor but went away after a couple days. this is what the dash board looked like on Friday night after the engine shut off
When the engine cranks does it sound like it's cranking at the normal speed? It sounds like you had a crank or cam sensor die, there is usually a check engine light and you can pull the codes with an OBD2 reader.
G35 Sedan Leather Base, Z1 Plenum Spacer, Z Tube (Currently sold to a friend)
First step is to read the OBD codes.
Your mechanic should have read these codes. If not I think he is just spit balling ideas at you about the alarm and what not. Mechanic sounds suspect or like he doesn't want to work on your vehicle.
Just because the CEL is gone for the MAF doesn't mean its still not faulty. Get a new one installed.
Check the fuel filter. When was the last time it was replaced? Check the fuel pressure regulator to see if it’s leaking. Could be an intermittent short or open in a crankshaft position sensor or the sensor’s wiring connector or harness, an intermittent short or open in an ignition control module, or an intermittent short or open in the coil primary voltage supply circuit. Best of luck keep us updated!
The fuel filter is the lower half of the fuel pump assembly. They do get dirty, I just changed a 144k mile unit and brown crap poured out of it when I pulled it out. The tank was very clean so the filter did it's job. The internal bypass regulator sits on the fuel filter also. I'll do a install write up in a couple weeks after I'm done with my fuel system. The fuel filter is a $22-$24 part online, most auto parts stores will not have it. I'm kinda surprised that most people haven't changed them and are well over 200k miles... Wonder how hard that fuel pump is working to push fuel through all that junk? Maybe next time I work on a 200k plus mile G35 I'll do a AMP check on the fuel pump before and after the filter change.
Last edited by scumbagsleeper; 04-02-2019 at 01:21 PM.
Front and rear cameras, tire pressure for all four tires can display on screen,folding side view mir
Originally Posted by Yuffie Hu
I'm panicking a little bit because he was suggesting me take it to the dealership.
He gave you good advice.
Or you could just guess, throw parts at your vehicle, waste time, money and then visit the dealer who will tell you you have to remove all cheap non oem parts that you just guessed and charge you more for a diagnosis.
The fuel filter is just a strainer over the pickup on the pump I side the tank and I've never even heard of one getting clogged.
There is no FPR either, it's not a fuel-return system, there are pulsation dampers on each rail to keep fuel oscillations from affecting flow.
If a fuel delivery problem is suspected then buy the sandwich adapter for the passenger side damper from Z1 Motorsports and install a gauge.
There is indeed a damper assembly which run to both sides of the G35. They run from bank 1 and bank 2. There is metal piece on each end of the dampers which is called a Fuel Injection Pressure Regulator. They still leak and should be replaced when replacing your fuel filter.
Yes there is a damper, which is not an FPR. It doesn't return excess fuel pressure to the tank and it doesn't limit pressure. It's only for dampening the hydraulic oscillations caused by the pump. They're also easy enough to troubleshoot because they make a LOUD thumping sound when they start to fail.
I still suspect a failed crank sensor since that's typically the signs when they go. I don't think he simply ran out of fuel because he only traveled 161 miles on that tank, possibly the pump died but you need the sandwich adapter to troubleshoot that one (at least they're cheap). Since there was a MAF error that cleared itself I'd also suspect that component possibly died too.
Hopefully the OP keeps the thread updated because I'm curious what the problem was.
Yes there is a damper, which is not an FPR. It doesn't return excess fuel pressure to the tank and it doesn't limit pressure. It's only for dampening the hydraulic oscillations caused by the pump. They're also easy enough to troubleshoot because they make a LOUD thumping sound when they start to fail.
I still suspect a failed crank sensor since that's typically the signs when they go. I don't think he simply ran out of fuel because he only traveled 161 miles on that tank, possibly the pump died but you need the sandwich adapter to troubleshoot that one (at least they're cheap). Since there was a MAF error that cleared itself I'd also suspect that component possibly died too.
Hopefully the OP keeps the thread updated because I'm curious what the problem was.
That's a good detailed writeup on the damper that they mistakenly call an FPR
Look closely at it though, there's a hard rubber fuel line that comes from the metal lineset with the disconnect and it delivers flow to the passenger fuel rail through the metal line coming out. There is no fuel return line, those EVAP lines behind it don't hook up into it they're separate.
No return = not an FPR, it's just a pulsation damper, this is why everyone who's running a lot of boost has to ADD a return. An FPR has a diaphram that will limit the flow of fuel through the rail, thus the "regulator" part of the name. The damper does not regulate flow its just a soft surface for the fuel to slam against as it's pumped up from the tank. The fuel is pumped up in a very rapid series of pulses and these vibrations don't play well with the injection system on the car because you can have an irregular flow through the injector (one cycle will deliver more or less fuel, inconsistent), the damper just smooths out the vibrations so it's a static pressure being delivered downstream.
Get a multimeter and test the voltage on the battery...it seems to me like it's your alternator. If the charge on your battery is under 12v that will give you your answer.
03-26-2019, 08:22 PM
