I really hate to be that guy with another "my car won't start" thread. But I've done quite a bit of searching and just hoping to be able to save a few bucks without having to just start replacing every electronic component related to the ignition, TB, and cam sensors. Most of the intermittent starting problems I've come across are with no cranking. The car cranks every time. My girlfriend is the one who drives it and I bought it only about two weeks ago, and haven't had any time with our schedules to go over all her complaints with it.

I bought it with a known high idle issue. The previou owner said it happened after he had a mechanic clean the TB. Already tried 12 hour off battery, and relearn procedures to no avail. The only code the car is giving is 0507. But when I really paid attention to the steps of the relearn, I'm noticing there is no sound during the throttle body portion when I cycle the ignition off like it says there should be. I hear it when I turn it to ON, but I don't hear it when I go to OFF. I'd also assume the mechanic who cleaned the throttle body may have manually moved the butterfly valve and possibly messed up the control somehow.

I already have a CZP throttle body on the way. The previous owner said he replaced the cam sensor or sensors trying to fix the high idle. I wouldn't put it passed him that he would get the $16 ones.

The few threads I've seen with people having the same starting problem, where restarts when the engine is warm and the engine cranks fine, I haven't seen any solutions yet. Could the cam sensors be bad without throwing a code? And is there a quick way to determine by looking at them installed if they are OEM or Chinese crap?

 

My '06 rev-up coupe makes no noise from the throttle body during the relearn, supposedly on non-rev motors you are also able to clean the throttle body by leaving it attached and having someone stand on the gas pedal with the engine off because it will operate the TB without the engine running. Rev-up does not function that way however which might also explain the lack of noise, is yours a 5AT or a 6MT vehicle?

Be sure to check for any vacuum leaks yourself, this includes pulling the PCV valve and making sure it rattles when you shake it.

There are many variables that must be met before you can perform the idle air recalibration, if ANY OF THEM are not met the system will not recalibrate. There is a hidden ECM value called the "electrical load switch" and unless the ECM detects it's turned off (meaning you actually are following the steps in the FSM and turned everything off) then it WILL NOT WORK. It will go all the way through the final step and you will THINK it's working but it's not.

See page 79 in the FSM.

https://nicoclub.com/archives/infini...e-manuals.html

 

I have the 5AT. I tried to make sure everything was off. I park in front of windows so I can verify there are no day time running lights. I even turn the mirror off before doing the pedal stomps. Radio is off. The navigation is always trying to read the disc so I ejected the disc to keep that from running. Got the steering wheel straight and just had an alignment (which was a nightmare at this particular Goodyear).

I did see the list of conditions and realized I can't verify everything myself and just try the best I can and hope for the best. I got a quote from the dealer for about $150 out the door for them to it, and almost considering it.

My girl did have one instance of overheating the other day, but I think it may have been induced from the high idle (been around 1250 in park) the 95 degree Florida weather, and her sitting in the car in a parking lot on the phone for 45 minutes. It bubbled the over flow bottle. The fans look brand new and I've heard them come on and running plenty of times. I came with a new radiator cap just in case and only had to a maybe a few cups of premix to top the radiator off. The seal on the cap already on there looked brand new, so that didn't seem to be the issue. I drive the car home with the heater cranked and the needle on the gauge never budged from the "wave" portion of the icon on the gauge, even when I turned the heater off and tried to get it to get hot by holding some revs at stoplights. I bought a new sensor thinking it wasn't working right, but haven't installed it yet. But I did notice the other day I was driving it the temperature rose pretty quick at one point to about a 1/4" from the high mark, but turning the heater on made it drop rapidly. I'm thinking there are some bubbles in there I need to bleed out. Would that keep the car from starting when it's warm? I'm trying to find out what would allow the engine to crank but not fire only when it's warm. I don't think temperature should matter with the fuel pump. I don't know if an overheat indication would allow the engine to crank either.

And as far as the sequences for the relearn procedure, I don't think it's my timing, as I've been able to get the code and reset the light on the first try every time. So I'm thinking if anything, the conditions aren't being met. Or I got some bad parts.

 

Another option for the idle reset is use the android app Nissan Datascan 2. You will need a bluetooth OBD2 adapter. I have had great luck with the BAFX adapter.

I think you need to pressure test your coolant system, the high idle is not contributing to your overheat issues but you definitely have a problem, sounds like the system isn't holding pressure.

 

What I meant by the high idle contributing is that I doubt the cooling fans were designed to be efficient enough to cool the engine running a constant 1250 rpms with the AC load on a 95 degree day sitting absolutely still on an asphalt parking lot for 45 min. That would tax any auto cooling system holding the rpms at that level I would think. And the coolant can boil just above normal operating temps. I haven't seen any other indications of a leak in the system. I'm going to bleed it next week after I come back from a trip, but was mostly interested in if anyone knew a common culprit for these symptoms. I'm under the impression the immobilizer issue or ignition switch module issue would result in no cranking at all intermittently.

I'll check out that reader though. If it's less than $150, I'll definitely pick that over taking it in to the dealer.

 

Here's the BAFX adapter I'm using


It's like $25, couple that with the NDS2 app which was like... $8 on the play store I think? For general purpose OBD2 reading function I use the app Torque Pro since you can display realtime data as well as data logging (in addition to just reading codes).

 

I have a Hum for Verizon that I've never even used yet that has an OBDII plug that pairs with the speaker unit with Bluetooth. You think that'll do the same function? I won't be able to check it out until Wednesday so I'm just wondering before I order the one you mentioned.

 

As long as it has the required protocols then it would work. I suspect though that the unit you're talking about is just using the OBD2 as a power source.

 

It has its own diagnostics app so it's meant as a scan tool. There's a separate battery powered unit that works as the speaker and phone interface. But I think I'm going to just get the BAFX. I'm seeing a bunch of negative things about leaving an OBD2 scanner plugged in constantly so I probably won't ever use the Hum. And it's probably proprietary to the app anyway. I appreciate all the help.

 

As they say great minds think alike, I just bought that same exact adapter. My old Panlong cheapie crapped out recently prompting me to get a new one.

 

So I got the OBD2 reader and the Nissan app, and just installed the CZP throttle body, but still can't get the idle down. I used the app, and the reader seems to only connect with the ignition in but not with the engine running, and I can clear the single 0507 code. I can only do the idle air volume relearn with the engine off, and it immediately comes back saying successful, but no change in idle other than now it fluctuates from 1200-1800, when before it was somewhat steady, but just high. But with the engine on, of I look at the work support page, it says the idle relearn failed. The one thing I notice is that the timing is reading 5, and fluctuates as low as -7, but usually between 1 and 5. I've tried to look up what it should be and I only see 15 +/- 5, but I'm guessing that should be NEGATIVE 15 when read on the app. Could the cam position sensors be giving bad readings without tripping a code? And i don't know if it affects the preconditions for the relearn, but I currently don't have one of the wheel speed sensors installed while waiting on getting a new one, which is giving me all the traction control lights on the dash.

 

I still think you should be looking for vacuum leaks. Get a can of throttle body cleaner and start spraying it around all the fittings and gasket surfaces. Did you ever check the PCV valve for proper function?

 

I haven't. I'll see about trying that out tomorrow. Thanks again.

 

I love you man. (No homo). The hose clip on the big vacuum line on the passenger side of the manifold wasn't even on the nipple. I slid it back into place, and now it's idling at a rock solid 650. I owe you a pack of beer or something.

 

Yeah I figured it was something like that, it's wierd how you can have the worlds biggest vacuum leak on these motors but it won't throw a check engine light.