Hi all, I am new to this forum. I bought a 2003 G35 a month ago that has a issue with it stalling when it warms up. I knew this when I got it, bought it anyway with the hopes I could fix it. I was getting 0171 and 0174 codes and some misfire codes. I have replaced downstream 02's, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensors, tb, plugs, breather housing, maf, and cleaned out the IVT. I no longer get any codes but the car still stalls when warm and won't restart until it cools down. How can the rpm's drop and the car sputter and stall without it throwing a code?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

What brand cam and crank sensors did you buy. Sounds like one of them isn't working properly.

When you say it won't restart until it cools down, will the engine still CRANK ?

 

The crankshaft sensor was Hitachi. I am not sure about the camshaft as they were done just before I bought it. I was told they were OEM. When it stalls, the engine will try to crank but can't turn over. Several times I have just left it where it broke down, taken an uber to get it later and it fires right up and drives great. If I start it when its cool I can get about 15 mins of driving before it stalls out.

 

I would check your battery voltage and alternator output. Key off a good battery has 12.65 volts minimum. Running you should have 13.6 to 14.3 volts no more no less.

 

Hot engine no crank is a classic symptom of a bad starter.

Probably unrelated to the engine stalling.

 

I would take it to Nissan for a diagnostic since you can accurately reproduce the problem, they should be able to find the root cause without any problems.

 

Do you think their diagnostics will get codes? I am using a friends reader and its not that great. I just cant understand how I could read for codes right after it stalls and get nothing. Some guys at work suspect the catalytic converters.
Thanks for the help guys.

 

They won't be looking for codes, Consult-III will monitor real-time data while they look for the problem as well as a full suite of diagnostic functions they can do with their computer.

 

HI all, a quick update on this problem. After many parts replaced, I think the problem is finally gone. I installed a fuel pressure gauge and watched it as the car idled. After 20 mins the pressure just dropped to less than 20 and then the car stalled and would not restart. I installed a new fuel pump, the pressure is steady at 50 and no more warm stalls.

 

Where did you install the fuel pressure gauge? This is something I'm interested in doing in the future. I've read way too many threads with several components being replaced before OP finds out it was a fuel delivery issue.

 

I bought this one
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html
good quality and goes on easy