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Yeah I first wanted to see what you were doing to check the fluid level. Typically you go for a 10-15min drive to make sure the tranny is up to temp (can't go off engine temp), then do the gear cycle like you posted making sure that the engine is STILL RUNNING when you check the fluid level.
The drain/fill should only be like 4 quarts, if you added 8 I'm highly suspicious because I don't think that tranny would have even gone into gear if it was actually 4 qt low.
However not going into gear or high shift points like what you're experiencing is a symptom of low fluid level. You did get the fluid level back to the high mark on the dipstick yes?
Yes the fluid is back on the dipstick, I didn't drive it for 10 to 15 minutes, just around a parking lot a few times, maybe a mile. I can check it again later today.
This morning I definitely was able to get it to shift into 3rd gear but it felt like it "popped" out and went back into 2nd almost right away.
As of now I am seeing P1757, P1754 and P1815 codes. Before I swapped the solenoids I was seeing all of these codes plus P1759, P1764,and P1754. It all started with a P0011 that literally came in at the beginning of a 3500 mile cross country road trip.
I am going to try and pull it again this week and hopefully I will see something I reinstalled incorrectly.
I am trying to do all of this out of a DIY garage up in the PNW cuz I don't have anywhere else that will allow me to work on my car in this corner of the USA.
Wish me luck, I'll give you updates as I get them.
P1754 is probably caused by P1757. I would focus only on that front brake solenoid and it's circuit. Did you check for the broken pin that typically causes this problem?
This video has a good explanation of the typical cause of the issue.
Your links suggest it is the 1st design.
2 accumulator plugs and 1 empty valve.
Bosch Low Coast Solenoid Guessing it is of the 20 to 40 Ohms variety, based on the 040 next to the name on the solenoid.
What I received from Amazon was a Nachi aftermarket. But I don't think the brand is an issue for the low coast solenoid, it is the resistance that matters.
Even if having different manufactures did matter, I'm not sure how it would affect the trans and the driveability of the car.
Do you know?
These are my 2 current codes descriptions from your link
Two things that jump out at me is the pressure switch, when I inspected mine a few did not appear to be seated very well. I don't have a pic of this.
And the ground wire possibility: They pulled out of the connector when removing the VB, I believe I have the wires reinserted correctly and with a good connection.
I had seen this video and I was convinced this was going to be my issue when I first opened it up. It wasn't, I inspected all of it very closely, all the PINS were intact.
There is also the external transmission ground which is located on the top front of the engine timing chain cover. 5AT models will have TWO wires landed on bolts (6MT will have only one). Clean up both those grounds.
EDIT: I don't think this will fix your problem but you might as well clean it up anyways. Be sure to clean the lug, the mating surface, and the threads of the bolt.
OK I am real tempted to start a new thread, not because I don't have faith in you, I do. More because I feel like I am unfairly leaning on you for advice.
Here is where I am at now:History
Previously I had codes P1759, P1757, P1769, P1754 and P1764. Also intermittently had P0463 and P1815, all of these codes started at the very end of a 3500 road trip.
Symptoms
I started the work on the VB / TCM about a month ago, the ATF was black when I drained it. Took out and inspected the TCM for broken PINs, didn't find any broken PINs. Next thing would be the Solenoids.
Spend the next week ordering parts and cleaning the existing VB with the intention of keeping the VB and purchasing new (used) solenoids and, if necessary, TCM.
At this point I reinstalled the VB with new remanufactured solenoids only. It was back to the original code of P1759 and would only shift into 1st and 2nd continuously, sometimes seeing 3rd after it warmed
up and once 4th long after if warmed up.
A few weeks ago I removed the VB a 2nd time and brought it home to inspect again. I ended up ordering new remanufactured solenoids and a rebuilt TCM which I installed on the VB When I initially removed the VB, two wires got torn out of the two wire connector from the wiring harness to the VB, and I reinstalled it again last weekend.
I experienced after the work was done: Car shifts between P -> R -> N -> D smooth, it moves forward and backward but only at about 5 mph. Pushing the gas pedal results in nothing, no rev of the engine, and no acceleration.
Did a accelerator pedal and throttle body relearn, no changes.
Will go to MM but usually is in 4th, this seems odd since I have a P1815 code. In MM I can downshift all the way to 1st but the car does not actually shift based on the sound and feel,
just showing that it has changed gears on the instrument panel.
Planning on doing the relearn procedures again today, along with checking fuses. I don't think the relearn with accomplish anything because whenever I needed to do a relearn in the past
it was be cause of high idle, in this case the idle is perfect 670rpms.
The last time I worked on the VB I disconnected the battery, it was the 1st time I disconnected the battery while working on it. I'm assuming at some point additional codes will get thrown.
I am doing the work at Stew's DIY full service garage, which is nice but it is getting costly.
This is where the connector for the wires that got ripped out goes
Last edited by Cheeseheaded; 04-17-2021 at 04:30 PM.
Reason: picture add
04-05-2021, 11:30 AM
