Hey guys I have a 05 g35 automatic sedan and I’ve recurved a 1762 and 1764 code for the selenoid valve body function and the direct clutch selenoid valve

I was wondering if I should take it to a transmission shop or if it’s possible to do it by myself

I’ve been looking all over to try to find how to do it on my car and I haven’t found much

my cars been slow from stop to 2nd gear and sometimes makes a clunk noise and the gears seem to be un responsive and I can tell even tho it’s an automatic
please tell me how I can fix it cuz I really don’t want to resort to paying a transmission shop a lot of money in labor

 

Firstly, clean up the vehicle GROUND system to ensure it's not just a grounding issue. Tranny ground is at the top of the timing chain cover, there are two lugs landed on the timing chain cover bolts, next there is a jumper wire from the right side that lands on a 2 hole lug directly below the coolant reservoir (remove the single 10mm bolt for the reservoir and lift straight up, leave the hose connected), lastly there is the primary ground jumper from the negative battery terminal to the chassis next to the battery.

Disconnect the battery, unbolt each connection one at a time, clean the lug, bolt, and mating surface with a wire brush, apply a thin layer of electrical anti-oxidation grease to everything, bolt back together.

If that doesn't do it then this is something you can diagnose and fix yourself if you know how to follow instructions, have ever worked on a computer, can figure out how to solder a wire (Youtube is your friend!), and know how to use a torque wrench. You should be able to find some youtube video's with folks taking out the valve body for those codes. Use keywords like "nissan 350z g35 re5r05a valve body P1762 p1764".

The two common failures are either the harness pin on the valve body breaks and needs to be re-soldered or the solenoid itself has failed.

Check out this page to see which one is the direct clutch solenoid.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...identification

Alternatively you can just buy a Sonnax remanufactured valve body, since you have one of the later styles it's $280 through rockauto.com with a $250 core charge. Here is the page to identify which one you have, you keep your existing TCM and mount it back onto the new valve body. Search rockauto for the part number you need.

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...identification

For instructions on how to remove/reinstall the valve body/TCM search for the "transgo shift kit" instructions. They're pretty straightforward, obviously you won't be doing any DRILLING since you are not actually installing the shift kit. Just use it to get an idea how to remove the thing, also reference the FSM which is available online at Nicoclub.

https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals

Section AT - Automatic Transmission, it will have all your torque values and specific directions for everything.

 

Well, I really do not know what to say here but thanks for guidance...p1762 p1764 codes were fixed after I pulled the battery, messed with a few grounds, and changed the battery terminal connections. The fluid seemed low, but not very low, so I topped it and cleared codes but limp mode came back. Pulled the battery, charged the battery overnight, cleaned off battery terminals and changed out BOTH POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE connectors that connect to the battery and the codes have not returned? I went ahead and joined this forum today. Utterly speechless, I thought for sure it was the valve body..never seen anything like that....all fixed, that will be $5000...

 

Yeah, poor electrical connections can wreak havoc on newer cars!
Its a common aftermarket 'mod' to install a grounding kit on G/Z's. It improves the 5at's shift quality, significantly in my experience. Stereo also plays louder, which was a surprise to me.

 

I have my doubts....I hope it doesnt return...will keep posted

 

Question?So what exactly fix the issue ?

 

just change the bad soliniod in the code...mine with the one in the middle...MAKE SURE ITS AN EXACT MATCH...Bocsh, Mitz or whatever..there are 3 types...make sure the low coast soleniod is the same in your valve body...no flash at stealership required...i got it on fleabay for 50 bucks...the dealer hit me with an 8000 repair bill...make sure you clean the trans pan and magnets. change trans fluid with valvoline universal....all fixed about 200 bucks....

 

big update on this problem...found out about different valve bodies, flashing and solenoids the hard way...your welcome

 

oh, make sure the connection does not need to be soldered either...mine was fine...after buying 3 different valve bodies and returning them...gambled on the soleniod and it paid off...

 

Okay thanks man I appreciate your help.I will be back with the update for you

 

I have P1764

Engine: VQ35DE
Trans RE5R05A

Is there anyway I can know which solenoid or valve body I need by VIN?

It's my only car I'm trying to avoid down time.

 

Just plan on doing it in two steps.

1. Drain tranny pan, remove and inspect valve body. New pan gasket or Permatex Ultra Grey, pour tranny fluid back in.

2. Order correct VB.

Personally I would pull the VB and inspect the harness for the broken pin that usually throws that code. Probably just needs soldered back on. There's a YouTube vid of some guy doing the repair so you can see what it will entail.

 

I took the Valve Body out, inspected the TCM and all the associated solenoid connectors, no breaks. The tranny fluid was basically black, it did not look like that on the dipstick.

I took the entire VB assembly apart, cleaned and inspected all valves for any noticeable areas where a valve may have seized up or been metal on metal. A few valves were a chore to remove but once removed appeared to be ok. I did these one at a time to avoid any confusion during reassembly.

When I opened to TCM to inspect the connections I cracked one very small corner, not even a millimeter. Based on videos I've watched I don't believe this would be an issue, not close to any components.

I replaced all the Solenoids, purchased off of Amazon, $70 for all 7, might not have been my best idea.

I wasn't able to measure the exact amount of ATF drained when I dropped the pan, I was in a DIY garage and the had a big collection bucket. I have put 8 quarts (5 initially, 3 since), a few quarts more than I expected.

Now reverse and the 1st two forward gears good. Nothing beyond 2nd gear. Manual Mode initially was not working but today it is, but if won't allow me to go higher than 2nd either. The night after I left the DIY garage it eventually shifted into higher gears, 3rd and 4th I believe based on speed and RPMs. Yesterday I wouldn't shift any higher than 2nd.

I am wondering if I purchased crappy solenoids or if I missed something during reassembly.
Does the TCM need to be flashed if only the Solenoids were changed? I don't believe so from what I have seen and read.

Can I mix the solenoids I removed, with the solenoids I purchased?
MY originals were Bosch and supposedly the solenoids purchased are a match, but the low coast brake clutch solenoid is clearly of a different design.

Any ideas where I should troubleshoot? Or should I just go ahead and purchase a new VB from Rockauto?

 

How are you checking the transmission fluid level?

Nothing wrong with mix/match solenoids. Typically you only replace the one/s that aren't working properly but you do need to make sure you have the correct resistance/ohm solenoids. Sonnax has a pretty good chart for them.

 

Get the car up to normal operating temp, cycle thru the gears, P, R, N, D and back. Parked on a flat surface, check tranny fluid.

if you are asking how am I able to check it, the dipstick by the firewall.

Good to know about the solenoids, just need to figure out how to test the old solenoids to I know which are good and which ones aren't.

No comment about the 8 quarts? Doesn't that seem like too much for not flushing the system?