Raybestos Ceramic Pads

 

you can always do stoptech stage 2 brake kit. just my .02

 

That's why I replaced my OEM pads with the "Metal Matrix" that I bought from Stillen (a little over a $100) before I had a 100 miles on ithem. I knew the deal way before I bought the car (I worked for Infiniti) and I didn't wanna go through all the warrantry tripe. I also wanted to upgrade the stock crap anyways, along with ridding myself of the dust issue, so I went with the Metal Matrix and never looked back....great pads. I posted all the peripheral stuff concerning this back in Nov.04'... and it, as always, should be easy to find on the "search". Spending the $100+ was a no brainer as opposed to the back and forth pain in the *** crap of "ring around the dealer". It's an EASY 'DIY' !!! Anybody wants the new stock pads... ya can have em'....just pay the freight. BCool, jbx

 

Holy crap!!! I can't believe those prices. Installing new front pads and rotors is terribly simply on these cars.

To replace the pads, you simply remove one of the caliper slide pins and swing the caliper up to expose the pads. Open the brake fluid reservoir and use a c-clamp and block of wood to slowly push the caliper back to make room for the thicker pad. Changing the front pads takes 10 minutes per side and that's including jacking up and car and removing the wheel.

To replace the rotor, you remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the hub and safely hang the caliper out of the way. Then the rotor should slide right off. It may require a tap of a dead blow hammer to unseize itself from the hub.

If you replace the rotors, you need to replace the pads. If you're only replacing the pads, then nothing has to be done to the rotor unless they're warped. If that's the case, get new rotors. Don't waste your time turning the rotors because the problem is still there. Also, don't over torque the wheel lugs. Over torquing the wheel lugs can warp rotors and break wheel studs. The lugs only need about 80 ft/lb which isn't much when you're using a 12"+ cheater bar.

 

When ever I changed break pads I always get the rotors turned. It helps the new parts break in better. If you don't turn the rotors you ofter run the risk of having squeaking breaks, This has been my experience in the past, now mind you I have not had to replace breaks in the past 10 yrs, so things might have changed a bit, I don't know. Also, it's usually not a good idea to push the break fluid back into the master as the old fluid has been heated up thousands of times and might contain some contaminates. I would open the bleeder valve then push the piston back to position. This method however might open up a can of worms with a broken bleeder valve if the thing is rusted badly. When finished pump the break pedal a few times and top off the master. I know this is more work but you usually end up with better performing breaks IMO.

 

if you open the bleeder bolt you have to bleed the brake line because you might end up with air, if you're changing the rotors or pads theres no need for that, just push the caliper back with a C-clam and thats it you dont really have to open the brake reservoir thats basically your choice

 

I know you can save a lot of money doing the brakes yourself. Some of us just don't have the time. It doesn't sound too hard, but it is something that I am not willing to do at this time. My warranty is up and I would also like to move to aftermarket pads. I know there are a lot of posts about this. Which ones do you prefer? EBC, Hawk? etc? By now some of you have had these aftermarket pads for a long time. Just wondering how they are wearing. Remember, the original question was for non auto cross pads. Thanks!

 

Also, keep in mind people that a lot of those "lifetime" brake jobs use crappy, abrasive pads that last a long time, but will eat up your rotors (which are expensive to replace and not covered). Or it only covers parts, but not labor - and they gouge you on the labor down the road.

Read the fine print.

 

Had EBC green's in my wife's Audi A4 Avant, a lot less dust and a lot more grippy. I was happy with em, and when my G's pads need replacement, I will go the EBC route again.

If you have any mechanical ability, and the inclination, do it yourself. Its fast and easy to do, and you can rent the tools (brake caliper reset) for free from almost any of the national chain auto part stores, or buy a set from Harbor Freight for $30 I think.

 

also check metal matrix. 85 bucks for a full set. full metal pad, awesome in summer, just got to remember to warm em up if you use them in the winter.

 

I just changed the brakes on my Mom's Buick over the weekend. It took less than 1.5 hours to do it. Kragen lists rotors for our car for $58-67 and pads are $30-$57 so you can do an entire brake job yourself for about $175.

Now for people who are not mechanically inclined, go ahead and pay the $500 at the dealership. That is your tax for not paying attention in auto shop class in High School.