Let's just evaluate some assumptions you've made.
1)Car is not properly set up for public streets-how is it not?
2)You've got to set up a car for the environment it's operated in-nobody drives their car that low, its impossible as most hydro/bagged vehicles lay flat when layed out all the way
3) There are numerous vehicles utilizing airbag suspension for Road Racing and track racing now-see articles on Bridgestone and Airride Technologies shoot outs at various tracks with various vehicles and air-suspension set-ups
4) I have owned vehicles equipped with both hydraulics and airride, and let me tell you, they all rode better (Read: smoother) than most lowered vehicles (not all). Its called accumulators (for hydros=oil, for airbags=air). It allows any adjustable suspension (hydros/air) to ride smoother than a Cadillac.

 

has anyone put a g35 on bags?

I saw a picture of a black coupe for sale that was lower than the Acura in this thread. I'm guessing it had to be bags cause it looked laid out

 

I have seen no sedans yet, only Zs and coupes...Mine will be done once my Caddy is back to running condition (restoring/customizing a 69 currently, so its the priority), but G should be ready by the end of the summer.

 

G35Alex, do you have a picture of your car on the Tanabe's?

 

Hmmm...

I had no idea that this little thread I started was gonna turn into such a debate forum. Are we havin' fun yet?! LOL =P

Here's what "I" think...and PLEASE, NOONE GET OFFENDED...ok? Ok...here goes:

1) I've had many "performance-modded" cars prior to my G35. And, having served 5+ years in the aftermarket wheel/suspension/performance industry...I think I have a pretty good idea of whats "ok" to do & what's not.

2) (here's where some might get offended...but PLEASE DON'T...its not meant to be an insult, simply an observation-based assumption) I believe that most of you who think my car is too low...rides like shopping-cart...has no suspension travel, etc...are the type of "car enthusiast" who get all their information from books, internet, hear-say. I'm also assuming that you're probably a little on the older (age) side & therefore conservative. You probably use the term "rice-rocket" or "ricer" quite often...referring to most fixed up Japanese vehicles as such. And, until you checked out & consequently fell in love w/ your G35...probably didn't care for Japanese "sports cars" at all. Either you're from the old-school hot-rod crowd (believing there's no replacement for displacement)...or the European crowd (thinking that all German-built cars are solid & the best things out there).

3) Although I'd by lying if I said I didn't learn a thing or two by reading magazines, etc...most of my experience has been hands-on & learned through actually working on the cars w/ the help of my friends (several of which now own their own shops & tune some very fast cars...be it Hondas or Nissans or Toyotas).

4) I too use the term "ricer"...but that term is slowing being replaced w/ the phrase "fast & furious style". LOL - I like clean, simple styles...no gaudy wings, graphics, neon lights, altezza-taillights, etc. And I especially dislike it when some people don't know which way their going: performance or luxury (ie...turbo, exhaust, suspension...but riding on 20-in bling bling & have 3 tv monitors w/ Playstation or XBox, etc.)

5) Believe it or not, I used to be into lowriders too! Imagine that: 17 y/o Asian dude (w/ his other Asian friends) driving around in a '83 Buick Regal (& a Lincoln & several Impalas) doing 3-wheels in front of the bus-stop at school & malls! Hahaha...I know it sounds totally ridiculous, but back when that trend first trickled into Hawaii (early 90's), me & my friends were among the first to have hydraulics! And whats more funny...now that I look back upon it...we were all dressed in our Nike Cortez & khakis & black t-shirts & baseball hats...blasting Dr Dre & Snoop on the stereo...can you hear it? "Ain't nuthin but a g' thang..." Hahaha...damn MTV pop-culture!!!

Anyways, to finish off...for those that can't imagine dropping a car that low...take a ride w/ me if you're in SoCal. You'll be surprised at how my car, despite looking so low, can handle. Granted, its a pain in the a$$ whenever I'm in a parking lot w/ speed bumps or going up steep driveways. BUT...it handles great & I get plenty of looks...LOL

PS - I have a stupid question, what is a "Z-tube"? So much for all of my so-called knowledge, huh? Hahahah...

Thanks to those who complimented...and to the others, you'd be surprised!!! Enjoy the Ride y'all!!! ^-^

 

Oh...one more thing!!!

I forgot that someone brought up a SAFETY ISSUE.

My thought on that subject is:

Its the DRIVER, not the car.

Meaning:

A driver should know when his/her car is modded in a certain way & how that will affect its driveability. That said, if he knows that the suspension, for example, is not set-up to handle a certain driving situation...he shouldn't drive it that way. Does that make sense? What I mean is, in simpler terms - you should know your car's (as well as your own) limitations...so don't push it beyond. In other words, don't go speeding in a car that is set up for show...just like you wouldn't go off-roading in a sports car.

Ahhhh...whatevers, you should get what I'm saying...right?! ^-^

 

Jimmy,

I've been modifying cars for a long time too and much of my experience and insight is by way of experimenting with things on my own cars. Hell, I had four different suspension setups on my Maxima which included 4 different sets of springs, three different types of struts (two of which were adjustable struts), subframe connectors, and special strut mounts that increased wheel travel. I can honestly tell you that my Maxima with higher sitting H&Rs (1.5" drop) and the strut mounts (1" added wheel travel) rode and handled MUCH better than my Maxima did with a 2.2" drop on Intrax springs. On normal rodes, there was little difference, but on certain surfaces the difference was clear. The .7" lower drop of the Intrax caused suspension to bottom out bumpy roads, especially on bumpy sweepers (ie cloverleaf highway ramps). The end result would be the rear end stepping out unexpectedly. The only thing that saved me from going totally out of control was my oversteer experience with my modded 94 Z28. Forcing oversteer is fun, but when it happens in an instant and without warning it's flat out scary. With my H&R setup, I could fly through the same sweepers and the car stayed glued. There was more body roll, but the car pulled more MPH through the turns and most importantly, with far more control and confidence. Contrary to popular belief, body roll isn't a bad thing and really doesn't hurt handling numbers. Another thing I noticed with the H&Rs was that on-center steering was far better as was bump steer. All these characteristics would apply to any lowered street car, especially a RWD car. The last thing you want in a car is unexpected snap oversteer. The G35 is already tail happy. There's a good chance even Vthe DC won't be able to save you in time because it can happen so quickly.

After installing G coupe springs on my G, I got a good feel for the available wheel travel for the G and it's about the same as the Maxima's. That means anything more than a 1.2" drop on stock sedan struts will push the car close to bottoming out the suspension on rough surfaces (1" bumps) at speed. Some of this problem can be aleviated with using the 350Z struts which are shorter which means a little more wheel travel. Going past 1.5" and you're well outside the designed suspension geometry. I'm talking about things like roll center, camber, caster, toe, and even the swaybars. This isn't internet jargon designed to impress you. These are very real things one must consider when properly lowering a car, especially one with a dramatic drop. With your drop, you're cars suspension dynamics are way out of spec.

It is quite possible to slam a street car the right way, but it cost big bucks. I'm talking about $2000 coilover systems with shortened adjustable struts that are designed to work with the various loads and ride heights, $400 adjustable A-arms, and various other aftermarket suspension components and alignments required to do this correctly. On a G/Z, expect to pay around $2800 for decent quality and performing 2" drop.

 

 

This was a well thought out response and most likely true for the most part. I know I fit this statement somewhat. All this negative comment and NOBODY has ridden in you car!


I don't thinkanyone answered this: It's the intake tube for the VQ-35 off the 350Z. It has no noise baffels and is smoother inside. Some say it will add HP, some say it's for the sound of the intake. I put mine on and it changed the way it sounds at WOT (w007!), butt dyno says no HP gains.

Now I will weigh in: I like the look, great for cruising the Blvd. Where I live, you would get lost in a pot hole in my drive way! (I live in the sticks).

 

Gthree5 6MT

Have to agree with Texasscout here - good responses and you're pretty accurate.

I fit the older, conservative part. In the military, however, I spend all my time around guys much younger who are generally butt-deep in all the things you mention. My squadron has over 500 people assigned, and if you walk out in the lot (which I do almost everyday) you'll see cars from one end of the spectrum to the other. I get my hands on their cars as they do their mods and learn as I go - my cars generally sit stock except for cosmetic mods (wheels, etc.). I put my mod money into my truck (less dollars + bigger gains = serves a better purpose - towing my RV)

Sounds like you know what you're doing, DaveB as well. I do get a lot of information from reading, but for me that's the starting point. When I started modding my truck I started on diesel performance sites to learn what worked and what didn't - trying mainly to avoid expensive mistakes - very easy to do when you're messing with turbo-diesel motors. I don't see anything wrong with learning from the net and from others as long as you don't stop there.

Anyway - thanks for the good responses and giving a little more perspective to an 'old fart' like me. See? Next time I sese a car as low as yours, I won't immediately jump to conclusions - guess reading on the net isn't a bad thing after all.

 

DaveB, I also purchased my G35 after owning a Maxima (5.5gen). I went through three suspension setups on that car- Eibachs with OEM SE shocks, Maxspeeds with Tokico Blue's, and S.Tech's with Illumina's. In my experience, I found the best handling balance to be with the S.Tech/Illumina combination.

Just to clarify (as I don't have a great grasp on suspension dynamics), if one were to mate the 350z D-Specs to these springs, it seems that you would have adequate wheel/suspension travel, right?

Also, how does one gauge where the roll center is the most effective for a good handling car.

Lastly, when you said "...even the swaybars..." do you mean that adding sway bars to such a severe drop can further detriment the handling?

Thanks

 

G35ALEX...

Beeeeautiful ride, dude! I was considering going w/ basically the same wheels as you (Stern ST-1)...except I wanted the regular Hyper-Silver vs Black.

When I saw the pic of your car, it gave me a much better idea of what mine will look like! ^-^

If I do end up w/ the Sterns I'll post pics so you can see too. Too bad you're not in SoCal...hehehe, we could go cruisin together!

 

Thanks bro! PM'd you back.

 

Sorry to say but the s-techs are excessively rough. Terrible ride quality on a Maxima. Way too low and with passengers it is right out annoying. I also had a 5th gen Maxima with them so I have no idea where you get the idea they are good ride. There simply is not enough suspension travel. The handling was better but this is for daily driver use not for track use.

 

Solid rear axle=crap ride.... (trust me, 2 maximas later, hated that setup)...