Switch to synthetic AND still change my oil every 3500 miles...Crazy?
Originally Posted by bythabay
Wow...you guys are really beating the crap out of this topic.
I asked some of the resident experts for links to help you and all of us out but no one can produce one..
I change my synthetic oil and filter at every 7500 or so miles.. if it takes a year to get there, so be it..
You will probably get the answers you need searching the synthetic oil sites or better yet the independant testing and research sites..
Im bored with the topic now, so I think Iwill go fix myself a peanut butter and spinach taco and watch spongebob square pants..
Originally Posted by vegasG35sedan
the filter has EVERYTHING to do with how long your oil will last...
Try this:
- Change your oil and filter (any oil and any filter)
- Drive 1,000 miles.
- Put your car up on blocks and don't drive it (throw away the key)
- Change oil filter (filter only) every week.
Your oil will still go bad.
Oil filters filter particulate matter down to micron sizes. Many of the contaminates that destroy oil are on the atomic level - gasses, acids, etc..
Originally Posted by HokieZ
Did you put a bypass system on the Z?
Regarding that peanut butter spinach creation... how can you eat that? Although I must admit the combination sounds tempting
Props to G35_TX for taking the initiative and posting a good question about oil/filters @ bobistheoilguy.com..
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...=013514#000002
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...=013514#000002
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Do you change your tires when they are only 30% worn also?
This reply was the most relevant and to-the-point response to the original question (albeit a little facetious).
Here are my suggestions. If you plan on an ODI (oil drain interval) of:
- less than 4,000 miles, stick with a quality dino
- if you prefer 5 -7K, go with a synth blend
- longer than 7K, a good fully synthetic
Vegas and G35_TX... have you guys reviewed the discussion points of flow vs. filtration?
Filtration may not be as important as oil flow... so long as there's sufficient lubrication, an engine will work just fine. A filter that filters excellently is likely to restrict oil flow, and therefore not provide adequate oil to aid in lubrication of the moving parts; not enough oil equals increased friction and wear.
On the other hand, oil with too many unfiltered particles will also increase wear on moving parts.
I tend to side with the flow argument... I prefer not to restrict flow so typically shy away from those filters that boast micron or nano filtration. I use Purolator or Wix/Napa filters since they've have been shown to be well-constructed and provide sufficient filtration.
Last edited by chinee; Jan 2, 2006 at 12:30 AM.
Originally Posted by chinee
This reply was the most relevant and to-the-point response to the original question (albeit a little facetious).
Here are my suggestions. If you plan on an ODI (oil drain interval) of:
- less than 4,000 miles, stick with a quality dino
- if you prefer 5 -7K, go with a synth blend
- longer than 7K, a good fully synthetic
Vegas and G35_TX... have you guys reviewed the discussion points of flow vs. filtration?
Filtration may not be as important as oil flow... so long as there's sufficient lubrication, an engine will work just fine. A filter that filters excellently is likely to restrict oil flow, and therefore not provide adequate oil to aid in lubrication of the moving parts; not enough oil equals increased friction and wear.
On the other hand, oil with too many unfiltered particles will also increase wear on moving parts.
I tend to side with the flow argument... I prefer not to restrict flow so typically shy away from those filters that boast micron or nano filtration. I use Purolator or Wix/Napa filters since they've have been shown to be well-constructed and provide sufficient filtration.
Here are my suggestions. If you plan on an ODI (oil drain interval) of:
- less than 4,000 miles, stick with a quality dino
- if you prefer 5 -7K, go with a synth blend
- longer than 7K, a good fully synthetic
Vegas and G35_TX... have you guys reviewed the discussion points of flow vs. filtration?
Filtration may not be as important as oil flow... so long as there's sufficient lubrication, an engine will work just fine. A filter that filters excellently is likely to restrict oil flow, and therefore not provide adequate oil to aid in lubrication of the moving parts; not enough oil equals increased friction and wear.
On the other hand, oil with too many unfiltered particles will also increase wear on moving parts.
I tend to side with the flow argument... I prefer not to restrict flow so typically shy away from those filters that boast micron or nano filtration. I use Purolator or Wix/Napa filters since they've have been shown to be well-constructed and provide sufficient filtration.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...=003180#000000
Actually, if you are really interested to learn about how restrictive different brands of filters are, check out this thread:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=6;t=000513
Originally Posted by Goods
Wrong.
Try this:
- Change your oil and filter (any oil and any filter)
- Drive 1,000 miles.
- Put your car up on blocks and don't drive it (throw away the key)
- Change oil filter (filter only) every week.
Your oil will still go bad.
Oil filters filter particulate matter down to micron sizes. Many of the contaminates that destroy oil are on the atomic level - gasses, acids, etc..
Try this:
- Change your oil and filter (any oil and any filter)
- Drive 1,000 miles.
- Put your car up on blocks and don't drive it (throw away the key)
- Change oil filter (filter only) every week.
Your oil will still go bad.
Oil filters filter particulate matter down to micron sizes. Many of the contaminates that destroy oil are on the atomic level - gasses, acids, etc..
Dont confuse the original poster any more than G35_TX and I already have
Originally Posted by vegasG35sedan
hahaha..well we all could what if everything.. if my car is on blocks, why am I changing the filter every week, after the first change there will be no oil in the filter, unless I start it.. synthetic oil will last a year in your oil pan.. do your research.. Driving the car will produce much more "ATOMIC" level contaminates than will not driving your car..
Dont confuse the original poster any more than G35_TX and I already have
Dont confuse the original poster any more than G35_TX and I already have
So, to say that oil filters have EVERYTHING to do with oil life, is just not correct.
Originally Posted by Goods
Well, my point is that even relatively fresh oil, once exposed to the combustion process, will start to break down. Even if you never expose it to more contaminates, and just let it sit in the oilpan, the process has already begun. Even the best oil filters cannot stop this breakdown, because it happens on a molecular level where filters have no effect.
So, to say that oil filters have EVERYTHING to do with oil life, is just not correct.
So, to say that oil filters have EVERYTHING to do with oil life, is just not correct.
one question.. would you run your engine for 10k with no filter?
I wont.. I wouldnt even start my car with out a top quality filter..
Originally Posted by vegasG35sedan
Well, you are correct
Originally Posted by vegasG35sedan
one question.. would you run your engine for 10k with no filter?
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Do you change your tires when they are only 30% worn also?
of those tires. But had you been paying attention we
were discussing oil types and intervals of changes.
Originally Posted by freakingout
Hi everyone,
Would this be stupid? Would it seriously prolong my engine life? Please advise....I appreciate it.
Would this be stupid? Would it seriously prolong my engine life? Please advise....I appreciate it.
i change oil on my civic every 3000, max 4000 miles since i had 25000 miles. why did i switched to synthetic on a civic? cuz i installed a turbo kit. now i have 88000 miles and everything is running smooth as it was when i bought it new.



