Members that put Their 350z Suspension on
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,578
Likes: 1
From: Wellington Florida
Members that put Their 350z Suspension on
Hey i was wondering not how to put the suspension on but what you torqued the suspension to, and all the other bolts involved.Thanks I'm going to search this now, just wanted to put this out their now rather than later.
Sorry or Thanks in advance.
Sorry or Thanks in advance.
You need to remove:
1) the 3 upper strut hat nuts, which are accessable from engine bay.
2) the sway bar link nut
3) the bolt that connects the brake valve to the shock
4) the bolt that connects the lower shock to the lower suspension arm
And either/or
1) the two bolts holding the upper control arm to the chassis
or
2) the nut and cotter pin holding the steering knuckle to the control arm
I've always done #1 because I don't like having to replace cotter pins.
Torque ranges from ~30 ft/lbs up around 75 ft/lbs. Make to use some anti-seize when when putting everything back together. It will keep you from cross threading nuts/bolts and will also allow for a more accurate torque reading.
FYI, I suggest jacking the whole front end up to take all the tension off the sway bar.
1) the 3 upper strut hat nuts, which are accessable from engine bay.
2) the sway bar link nut
3) the bolt that connects the brake valve to the shock
4) the bolt that connects the lower shock to the lower suspension arm
And either/or
1) the two bolts holding the upper control arm to the chassis
or
2) the nut and cotter pin holding the steering knuckle to the control arm
I've always done #1 because I don't like having to replace cotter pins.
Torque ranges from ~30 ft/lbs up around 75 ft/lbs. Make to use some anti-seize when when putting everything back together. It will keep you from cross threading nuts/bolts and will also allow for a more accurate torque reading.
FYI, I suggest jacking the whole front end up to take all the tension off the sway bar.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by jran76
If you send me your email address I will send the .pdf from the technical manual. All I have is the 350Z and G Coupe, but it is the same.
I got my car back from the dealer and now it makes a clicking sound when I go over small bumps. Do you think this is because they tighten my bolts too tight? I have a torque wrench and can re-torque by jacking the car up. Can you send me the specs?
dchen16611@earthlink.net.
Thanks,
David
Dave (or other experts),
My understanding is that option number 2 (cotter pin removal) is actually easier than option number 1, however you obviously need to replace the cotter pin.
Is this true? And if so, how much easier is it (i.e. is it worth the cotter pin replacement to make it easier for someone not too experienced?)
My understanding is that option number 2 (cotter pin removal) is actually easier than option number 1, however you obviously need to replace the cotter pin.
Is this true? And if so, how much easier is it (i.e. is it worth the cotter pin replacement to make it easier for someone not too experienced?)
Originally Posted by DaveB
You need to remove:
1) the 3 upper strut hat nuts, which are accessable from engine bay.
2) the sway bar link nut
3) the bolt that connects the brake valve to the shock
4) the bolt that connects the lower shock to the lower suspension arm
And either/or
1) the two bolts holding the upper control arm to the chassis
or
2) the nut and cotter pin holding the steering knuckle to the control arm
I've always done #1 because I don't like having to replace cotter pins.
Torque ranges from ~30 ft/lbs up around 75 ft/lbs. Make to use some anti-seize when when putting everything back together. It will keep you from cross threading nuts/bolts and will also allow for a more accurate torque reading.
FYI, I suggest jacking the whole front end up to take all the tension off the sway bar.
1) the 3 upper strut hat nuts, which are accessable from engine bay.
2) the sway bar link nut
3) the bolt that connects the brake valve to the shock
4) the bolt that connects the lower shock to the lower suspension arm
And either/or
1) the two bolts holding the upper control arm to the chassis
or
2) the nut and cotter pin holding the steering knuckle to the control arm
I've always done #1 because I don't like having to replace cotter pins.
Torque ranges from ~30 ft/lbs up around 75 ft/lbs. Make to use some anti-seize when when putting everything back together. It will keep you from cross threading nuts/bolts and will also allow for a more accurate torque reading.
FYI, I suggest jacking the whole front end up to take all the tension off the sway bar.
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