aftermarket wheel offset help
I'm a noob to the G and i'm looking and getting a few mods for my new G. I was looking at some 19" volks

(20's look good but add too much unsprung/rotational weight IMO) But I was trying to figure out the proper offset and width that will fit. also not sure about the wheel color, thinking of going with the gunmetal center section. I was also thinking of going staggered offsets but I would like to know how it effects the handling first and what the proper offsets would be. I'm planning on getting some black brembo brakes and some tein coilovers so I can adjust ride and lower it a little. any help would be greatly appriciated.
This is on a 6-MT platinum graphite sedan sport ( loaded
)

(20's look good but add too much unsprung/rotational weight IMO) But I was trying to figure out the proper offset and width that will fit. also not sure about the wheel color, thinking of going with the gunmetal center section. I was also thinking of going staggered offsets but I would like to know how it effects the handling first and what the proper offsets would be. I'm planning on getting some black brembo brakes and some tein coilovers so I can adjust ride and lower it a little. any help would be greatly appriciated.
This is on a 6-MT platinum graphite sedan sport ( loaded
)
Last edited by John2.5RS; Jan 18, 2007 at 09:40 PM.
John I recommend you post in the tech area since the 2007 is new and only a few people have stepped up to modd their 07. If you want to go staggard then +35 in the front and +45 in the rear is the widest I would recommend if you plan to make changes in your brakes it will give you enough room to fit an aftermarket brake kit and keep you flush with the fenders without sticking out of them. As far as staggered performance it's easy to figure out that staggard setup is better for RWD because our cars are RWD a wider tire in the rear will allow more traction and better handling where the source of our power is put to the pavement. The draw back is that you can not rotate your tires so you will need to be ready to replace tires not just rotate.
If you want to go none staggard then +35 to +38 all around is a good match but I personally prefer +35 all around.
As far as rims are concerned you will have to figure out what YOU want there are so many different wheels out there that I just recommend you take your time and ask us questions. I think 20" are the best route for the 07 you can find 20" that aren't heavy but they will cost you more $$$ 2 piece, 3 piece and forge wheels are a lot lighter than your factory wheels. I also think you will need a drop if you go with anything bigger than 18"...
If you want to go none staggard then +35 to +38 all around is a good match but I personally prefer +35 all around.
As far as rims are concerned you will have to figure out what YOU want there are so many different wheels out there that I just recommend you take your time and ask us questions. I think 20" are the best route for the 07 you can find 20" that aren't heavy but they will cost you more $$$ 2 piece, 3 piece and forge wheels are a lot lighter than your factory wheels. I also think you will need a drop if you go with anything bigger than 18"...
I think 8.5" wide +35 front and 9.5" wide with +45 rear is the sweet spot you should shoot for.
There is a guy that has some volk challenges with a 9.5" rear with 40 offset and I think he is getting some 48 offsets to replace them because the 40's hang outside the body some.
There is a guy that has some volk challenges with a 9.5" rear with 40 offset and I think he is getting some 48 offsets to replace them because the 40's hang outside the body some.
It's hard to tell from these pics but these are 19" Volk +40 on the rear. If you put a straight edge on the wheel the rear is outside the edge of the rear wheelwell 1/4".
They don't rub but I'm planning on lowering about 1.3" in the rear so I went ahead and ordered +48's for the rear. +48's will be 2mm inside the fenderwell.
My fronts are +34 and that's dead flush with the outside edge of the front fenderwell.


If you think you can live with +40 SF Challenges on the rear, I'll have a deal for you in about 2 weeks!
Personally after seeing Hiko's 20"s, if I had it to do over again, I would probably go with 20"s.
They don't rub but I'm planning on lowering about 1.3" in the rear so I went ahead and ordered +48's for the rear. +48's will be 2mm inside the fenderwell.
My fronts are +34 and that's dead flush with the outside edge of the front fenderwell.


If you think you can live with +40 SF Challenges on the rear, I'll have a deal for you in about 2 weeks!

Personally after seeing Hiko's 20"s, if I had it to do over again, I would probably go with 20"s.
Last edited by Railgunner; Jan 20, 2007 at 07:24 PM.
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Railgunner, are your rears really sticking out? I think with a H&R drop and the slight camber that will result from it, your wheels will just tuck in nicely under the fenders.
Those 19's look sweet RG. You may not have to swap'em out once the springs go on. Plus you'll have a little more 'cushion' from the tires on the 19's than you would w/the 20's.
Those 19's look sweet RG. You may not have to swap'em out once the springs go on. Plus you'll have a little more 'cushion' from the tires on the 19's than you would w/the 20's.
Originally Posted by Hikos_G
Those 19's look sweet RG. You may not have to swap'em out once the springs go on. Plus you'll have a little more 'cushion' from the tires on the 19's than you would w/the 20's.
don't forget about the rotational inertia(and unsprung weight).
Originally Posted by Hikos_G
Railgunner, are your rears really sticking out? I think with a H&R drop and the slight camber that will result from it, your wheels will just tuck in nicely under the fenders.
Those 19's look sweet RG. You may not have to swap'em out once the springs go on. Plus you'll have a little more 'cushion' from the tires on the 19's than you would w/the 20's.
Those 19's look sweet RG. You may not have to swap'em out once the springs go on. Plus you'll have a little more 'cushion' from the tires on the 19's than you would w/the 20's.
Originally Posted by John2.5RS
Exactly my point with getting 19's.
don't forget about the rotational inertia(and unsprung weight).
don't forget about the rotational inertia(and unsprung weight).Even high performance german car tuners of BMW's(Hartge, AC Schnitzer), Porsche's(TechArt, Ruf) and Mercedes(AMG, Lorinser) run 20's, even 21's on their cars without 'sacrifices' in performance.
There are many factors and pros/cons in deciding between 19's & 20's but unless your butt dyno and your driving skill is at a profound level, the difference in feel between 19's and 20's are negligible, IMO. It'll basically come down to which look you prefer and how much you're willing to spend.
Originally Posted by Railgunner
Kind of hard to get a good pic, but this should work...


I'd still be curious to see how they fit(if they fit) with the springs before you swap the wheels. Believe it or not, my wheels looked like they would be too wide and were sticking out like an inch when it was up on jacks during mounting but as I lowered it down, the wheel tucked in nicely and sat flush with the fender.
Please keep us posted on the +40 issue.
Originally Posted by Hikos_G
Moot points on the street and for everyday use unless you're gonna be autocrossing your G or racing it hardcore and stripping your a/c, stereo, all but the drivers seat and putting in a rollcage. They used to say the same thing about 19's when 18's were the 'big wheel' size and anything bigger was overkill.
Even high performance german car tuners of BMW's(Hartge, AC Schnitzer), Porsche's(TechArt, Ruf) and Mercedes(AMG, Lorinser) run 20's, even 21's on their cars without 'sacrifices' in performance.
There are many factors and pros/cons in deciding between 19's & 20's but unless your butt dyno and your driving skill is at a profound level, the difference in feel between 19's and 20's are negligible, IMO. It'll basically come down to which look you prefer and how much you're willing to spend.
Even high performance german car tuners of BMW's(Hartge, AC Schnitzer), Porsche's(TechArt, Ruf) and Mercedes(AMG, Lorinser) run 20's, even 21's on their cars without 'sacrifices' in performance.
There are many factors and pros/cons in deciding between 19's & 20's but unless your butt dyno and your driving skill is at a profound level, the difference in feel between 19's and 20's are negligible, IMO. It'll basically come down to which look you prefer and how much you're willing to spend.
And also, those companies you speak of run large wheels to fit large brakes & tires, and have enough power to not have to worry about a few extra lbs. of wheel weight, it actually plays a large part in how a car handles and rides. large, heavy 20's will also lower your gas mileage, compaired to lighter 19's. I still believe that 20's are too big, they look good, but looks aren't everything(at least to me) but cars are getting larger and they're not looking too out of proportion with the larger wheels.
Just curious, since the overall diameter of the tires will be the same with 19" inch wheels as 20" wheels, you're gaining a little weight in the RIMS but you loose the weight of 1" of tire sidewall.
1" lightweight aluminum vs. 1" of pretty thick tire sideall. The real overall weight difference would be the difference between the two. Is it really that much?
Assuming the 1" of RIM weighs a little more than the 1" of tire sidewall, wouldn't some of the difference also be negated by the fact that more of the overall weight has been moved closer to the slower spinning axle (the RIM weight)?
Would be curious to see the real difference in the combined weight of RIM and tire for a 19" wheel as opposed to a 20" wheel (same model RIM and tire) of approx. the same overall diameter.
1" lightweight aluminum vs. 1" of pretty thick tire sideall. The real overall weight difference would be the difference between the two. Is it really that much?
Assuming the 1" of RIM weighs a little more than the 1" of tire sidewall, wouldn't some of the difference also be negated by the fact that more of the overall weight has been moved closer to the slower spinning axle (the RIM weight)?
Would be curious to see the real difference in the combined weight of RIM and tire for a 19" wheel as opposed to a 20" wheel (same model RIM and tire) of approx. the same overall diameter.
I don't know if it's so much the total weight differences between the bigger and smaller wheels. The bigger wheel hoops are 1/2" further away from from the axle, and the closer they are the better. That being said, I doubt it make much difference if the weights ar similar.


