You must have had the stereo pretty loud. A typical automotive battery has an amp-hour capacity around 70Amp-hrs at a dischard rate of 3.5Amps. (Not sure what it is on the G's battery) This means with a load of 3.5 Amps the battery will completly discharge in 20 hours. If the load is higher, the battery will discharge faster due to internal heating. The louder you crank your stereo the more current you will draw and the faster you will drain your battery. More than likely you were probably pulling a lot of current out of your battery to make it go dead in 45 minutes.

Have the guys at the shop put a current meter on your battery cable and check the current draw of your system. I am curious to see what current draw is with the stereo volumn low/mid/loud.

 

It's that 35" subwoofer you put in the trunk...

 

LOL

 

I just went out and put a current meter on battery to see what the current draw is the with stereo on. Turns out its about 5 Amps regardless of the stereo volume. I don't have the Navi with the hard drive so my numbers will be lower than yours. Regardless, your battery shouldn't go dead in 45 min.

 

^ Good to know, thanks for the info. I'll keep you posted on what I find out.

 

LMAO, yeah right!

 

This has really gotten my interest peaked. If they can't tell you much, then I think we should start doing some data gathering of who has dealt with this and what exactly they were doing, etc. Hopefully they can tell you right away what's wrong and fix it easily.

 

Interesting, this happened to me just yesterday. Roadside assistance jumped it in my garage and I let it run for a bit and seeems to be alright now, but why?

 

get a optima

 

By calculation if the specs are true, @370 watts your pulling 28 amps using @13 volts, not calculating in the inefficiency of the system.

By observation looking at the fuse panel, (2) 15 amp fuses for Bose amps plus 1 other labeled audio, you have a peak capacity of 40 (45) amps available to the system, with headroom at 2/3 you're at your ~30 amps suggested by the calculation above.

In other words, if you have the system truly cranked, you are pulling some current : - (

 

That's exactly what happened... I could have jumped myself but I wanted to make sure it wasn't gonna be something else. If the car had acted out after that I would have gotten it towed to the dealer.

But it's been fine since... about 2-3 months now. But it's still in the back of my head.

 

As I recall our G's are suppose to shutdown to prevent a dead battery?

I saw it happen to my car at the dealership. They had the headlights on and after several minutes the lights and the car turned off....

 

I know the lights turn off, even if you leave then on the ON position instead of auto after a while... the time interval is in the manual but I'm too lazy to look it up now.

But regardless, in my case I didn't leave any lights on, doors open or anything of the sort. I just came up the next day and the car was dead.

I'm probably going to get some battery terminals with the voltage display like I did when this happened to my Maxima. That way I can see right off the bat when I open the hood to clean the engine bay what the voltage is. It helps because every car wash you're guaranteed to see what's up... unless you're one of those people that never cleans the engine bay, which is the equivalent to showering every day but never changing your underwear.

Nasty.

 

REALLY? Does anyone else feel the need to spend the $$$ on an Optima on a brand new carwithout any aftermarket electronics? Thanks though. Real helpful!

 

Shane, any updates on your battery issue? Curious to find out what happened and what the dealership said/did about it.

Mine just up and died yesterday without any explanation or sign of a weak battery.