aka Raichyl




This thread is just a place for me to keep track of the progression of my vehicle. All questions and criticisms are welcome!

Mod List:
-Passport 8500 w/ Invisicord & Mike's Mount
-iPhone ProClip w/ custom wire running
-Full de-badge
-Input/video lockout bypass
-Custom bass level control mounted inside ashtray
-Alpine SWR-1242D powered by Alpine MRP-M500 w/ custom built box firing forward through rear seat pass-thru
-Eibach Pro-Kit Springs [@45k]
-Ark Performance Grip CBE [@48k]
-DIY Bumper Plugs
-BlackBetty Grounding Kit
-R2C MaxxFlow [@57k]
-Manual Hide Away license plate bracket
-Vertini Magic Concave [custom gloss black finish]
--20x9 +23
--20x10 +35
-'09 Sport Lip [@60k]
-DIY Midnight Grille
-White Turn Signals
-Blue interior LEDs
-Fast Intentions RHFC
-DIY Gloss Black Headlights
-6k Headlight Bulbs
-6k Parking Lights
-6k 35w 9006 HID Fog Kit

Well I started with a 2007 G35s Sedan Garnet Ember/Graphite fully loaded w/ NAV & Bose.


First Mod was to find a cleaner solution for my radar detector. Ordered the Invisicord so I could hook up to my mirror to lose the power cord across my dash and Mike's Mount to get rid of the suction cups so that my sun reflector could be put up behind the detector and save it from the sun.

My only complaint here is that the piece of the original mount you use along with Mike's Mount is too thin to properly rest in the Passport. This causes rattling. I just shoved a plastic wedge in the back to make it secure and haven't had any problems. I later found http://www.blendmount.com/ which looks to be a much nicer mount and solves the rattling problem with a spring loaded clip. But my mount is working out fine and was $60 cheaper.

Next, I needed a solution for my iPhone. I charge it in my car and use it for music and videos.

I found the ProClip to be a really clean mount that looks like it came from the dealership this way. Happy with its location and quality. I have drilled a hole just behind the mount and in the console to run the wires [power and AV] inside the console instead of outside. No more cord getting in the way when I try to shut my console!

Zhao, a friend on strictlygs.com, then started selling LED's so I went ahead and did those. All interior and exterior.





I took the picture of the parking light that way to show the stress cracks that have formed on my headlights. Already failed once at getting it replaced under warranty, will be trying a new dealership next maintenance. *1/12/11 Had them replaced*

De-badged my trunk.
Only removed the "G35s" lettering. Still considering removing the "Infiniti" lettering from under the Mt. Fuji symbol, but I like the way it keeps things centered. Also considering just taking it all off, just can't make up my mind.

I have since then fully de-badged it.
[Pic MIA]

Next I finally did the input/video lockout bypass. Located the VSS switch in the console just above the AV inputs.

I have a hole drilled just under the AV cables to run the wires inside the console to the iPhone mounted by the shifter. If you look closely you can see how I messed up. I was in a hurry and slipped with my drill bit and ate away some of the felt between the 12v and AV :Grimmace:

While I had the dash apart doing that previous project, I decided to wire up my bass level control **** and hide it in the ashtray.

I love how hidden it can be but at times is a little annoying to access. It's fine and not a problem when the shifter is in Drive, but is cramped when in Park.

Next I installed my Alpine SWR-1242D powered by an Alpine MRP-M500 in a custom built box firing forward through rear seat pass-thru that I fabricated myself. It seals up flush against the back seat. This was my first time to wire a vehicle and my first box to ever build. Wow was I happy when everything came together and it actually all worked





I removed the plastic door between the armrest and the pass-thru to keep it from rattling.

Time for the drop! picked em up used for $120

Working hard!

Finally taking my victory lap

Thanks to all the members of strictlygs.com who came out to the meet and lent their hands and knowledge!

Headlights, door pulls, and steering wheel fixed!
[Pic MIA]
Had them all replaced for free under warranty. In the process they lost my 6000k parking lights but they put in 6000k headlamps for me! Sounds like I won in that trade!

Ark Performance Grip CBE was next!



Stock Sound Clip
Ark Sound Clip

DIY Bumper Plugs
Just bought some plugs from home depot and painted them with the correct touch up paint. Bored the holes out to the right size for the plugs.




BlackBetty Grounding Kit

I routed the wires a little different than the instructions and I think it all came out great.


Full Paint Correction with the PC
Before

After


R2C MaxxFlow!
[Pic MIA]
For audio comparison, I took a video of the stock intake and R2C in park but they sounded almost identical. The growl really comes in while the car is under load. Really starts to get loud around 4.5k. When I get on it, I can't even hear my exhaust anymore.
Here is a quick and cruddy video my friend took while we were driving so you can hear it under load.

I also added a Hide Away license plate bracket. Although I liked the fun-ness of the powered one, I went the economical route and bought the manual one. I cut out a section of the black mesh in order to have a place to mount it in the middle of the bumper instead on the bottom.

I finally found my wheels!
Vertini Magic Concave
20x9 +23
20x10 +35
wrapped with
245/35/20
275/30/20








[1/17/12] [60k]
Sport Lip!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/74520361@N03/6722772667/Pretty easy to install with the included template. Everything lined up great except the middle two holes were way off so I have a few extra holes under my bumper..

-DIY Midnight Grille
Taped off the areas I wanted to remain chrome and roughed up the middle section I was painting with some sandpaper


Painted a few coats of color and a few coats of clear


Installed


*This post is at maximum length and now continues on page 8 post #106*

Thanks for checking it out and leaving your input!
Jd

 

Looks good, but all I'll say is expect rattling if you haven't sound proofed the car.....

I don't want to hear another complain about rattles when someone's installed aftermarket ICE

 

the rattling hasnt been too bad, i guess i keep the bass at a moderate level though. but yeah as i had the back seat out in order to run my wires easier, i was really wishing i had some fatmat to throw down...

 

I dig it!!!

 

Nice. Car's comin along nicely man. Keep it up and make sure to keep us posted every step of the way.

 

Where did you get that pro clip from?

 

Nice. I love my eibachs!!!

 

good job, bro i dont think they are stress cracks everyone has those, am i ignorant?

 

nice setup. maybe get some brackets from the box to the frame to hold in place

 

try to put the subwoofer box near the trunk opening on the right side, so it would fire bass from the right to the left side of the trunk (at the place where almost all modern cars have the factory subwoofer)

it made the best BASS for me (I have the same looking 12" Hertz subwoofer/Hertz amplifier in the custom box)

 

where was the tutorial you followed for the bypass? I found one but it wasnt the same wires as my car

 

from their site
you have to buy a vehicle specific mount and a device specific holder

yeah ive seen them in person and it seems like the perfect drop for what i want!

im not sure what part of the pic you are looking at, but im not talking about the long parallel lines that are vertical in the picture, i believe those are refractors. but do you see the small half inch lines that are horizontal and lit up by my parking lights? there are 10 or so and those are cracks.

yeah thats what i was thinking. would i do it to the floor or back of the seat? ill prob just let it be though, that thing is in there tight. when i was trying to get it centered on the pass-thru i reallllly had to push it ha

that would defeat the whole purpose of the box i built. i built it the way i did so it would be centered on the pass-thru and i could open that to see the sub from the cabin. sliding the box to the left or right wouldnt affect the bass anyways, since subs are non-directional. and all my stuff is alpine.

i hear this was a forbidden topic on driver? if it is sorry just tell me to edit this or whatever. but i used this thread to see how to take apart the dash. that thread is for non-nav though so the wires were different for me. there was this thread for cars with nav but i didnt find it very useful. so i then used the service manual to deduce which wires i had to access to make sure i had the right ones. i may be doing a DIY with pictures on a someones car in the near future. if you want some help figuring it out you are welcome to hit me up though.

 

good looks!

 

hey how does the 1 type r hit with that amp? i used to have a type x with an mrp-m1000 and it was great but sold it when i got the G.

Do you think one type r with 500watts RMS is enough, or should i get the type x with 1000watts RMS

I could care less if people heard me out of the car, i just want it to sound great inside, deep, low hitting bass but not so loud my ears are ringing for 20 mins after lol

 

^
it hits pretty hard. i do have the gain and bass boost almost all the way up, then the head unit bass two notches from max, and my bass control **** is normally right in the middle for good deep car vibrating but not rattling bass. i can turn it up to where its way too much for me