Registered User
vqsmile
Registered User
close
- Join DateOct 2010
- LocationSF bayarea (925)
- Posts:3,945
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(1)
-
Likes:188
-
Liked:427 Times in 368 Posts
Quote:
The radiator is straight through
Wouldn't you normally have incoming (hot) tranny fluid flowing into the top of the radiator and outgoing tranny fluid (cooled) coming out the bottom and returning to the tranny?Originally Posted by Eric@TCGMiami
Doesn't matter...The radiator is straight through
Registered User
Eric@TCGMiami
Registered User
close
- Join DateJan 2007
- LocationMiami, FL
- Posts:1,311
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(4)
-
Likes:104
-
Liked:73 Times in 52 Posts
Quote:
....Originally Posted by vqsmile
Wouldn't you normally have incoming (hot) tranny fluid flowing into the top of the radiator and outgoing tranny fluid (cooled) coming out the bottom and returning to the tranny?
wait this radiator is vertically stacked? not horizontally????
To be quite honest, my G is very well repaired as far as paint and overall fitment. I've bought many salvage cars as well, but they always have some little knick knack going on and so on. Basically all normal folk cannot tell it's salvage.
Tomorrow I will reconnect the lines. It seems to make sense that the top tranny line will go to the top of the radiator and the bottom outlet of the radiator will go with the bottom of the tranny line. Can I start the car once the lines are disconnected to figure out the flow just to make sure?
Tomorrow I will reconnect the lines. It seems to make sense that the top tranny line will go to the top of the radiator and the bottom outlet of the radiator will go with the bottom of the tranny line. Can I start the car once the lines are disconnected to figure out the flow just to make sure?
Quote:
My G is the first non-salvage car I've bought since the 80's and some stupid chick hit me in the rear at a red light 1 month after I got it.
I bought a salvage WRX from a guy in California on Ebay back in 04 and one week after I got it the front right axle popped out. I called the guy at 6 AM in Cali and he answered his phone. He told me to get it fixed and fax him the invoice--it cost 525 dollars to fix and I had a check in the mail from him in 3 days. You couldn't get service like that from a car dealer. I drove that car 75,000 miles, modded it, etc and never had another single repair on it.
His ebay id is drjemini if anyone wants to buy salvage from him in the future.
Good luck with your car man....
Originally Posted by Rollo
Who did you get your salvage from? I have been buying salvage cars for 20 years and have had really good luck with them overall. I'd like to know if it is a dealer that sold this one so I can avoid them in the future.My G is the first non-salvage car I've bought since the 80's and some stupid chick hit me in the rear at a red light 1 month after I got it.
I bought a salvage WRX from a guy in California on Ebay back in 04 and one week after I got it the front right axle popped out. I called the guy at 6 AM in Cali and he answered his phone. He told me to get it fixed and fax him the invoice--it cost 525 dollars to fix and I had a check in the mail from him in 3 days. You couldn't get service like that from a car dealer. I drove that car 75,000 miles, modded it, etc and never had another single repair on it.
His ebay id is drjemini if anyone wants to buy salvage from him in the future.
Good luck with your car man....
Registered User
Eric@TCGMiami
Registered User
close
- Join DateJan 2007
- LocationMiami, FL
- Posts:1,311
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(4)
-
Likes:104
-
Liked:73 Times in 52 Posts
On the 2003 g35 the sender is the line closest to the engine aka nearest the stall converter, and return behind it.
The cooler on the left is the power steering cooler.
and again I thought only us GCC guys came equipped with a trans cooler from the factory
and again I thought only us GCC guys came equipped with a trans cooler from the factory

Registered User
Wow. Make sure no coolant comes out of that thing when you undo the ATF cooler lines. maybe that is why?
If it's dry, just reconnect the tranny lines. I would also do an entire ATF exchange. Chances are the fluid has gotten much hotter than it was designed to be if you drive in alot of traffic/spritedly.
If it's dry, just reconnect the tranny lines. I would also do an entire ATF exchange. Chances are the fluid has gotten much hotter than it was designed to be if you drive in alot of traffic/spritedly.
Another update:
To make sure which tranny line was which...the one top or the bottom. One runs on top of the other. I disconnected both lines and had my brother turn the car on. The tranny line running on the bottom shot out tranny fluid while the top did nothing. So basically that tells me the bottom tranny line goes to the top of the radiator and bottom of the radiator outlet uses the tranny line that runs on top.
So couldn't I just flush the car by disconnecting the line and letting all the fluid come out and just refilling it?
To make sure which tranny line was which...the one top or the bottom. One runs on top of the other. I disconnected both lines and had my brother turn the car on. The tranny line running on the bottom shot out tranny fluid while the top did nothing. So basically that tells me the bottom tranny line goes to the top of the radiator and bottom of the radiator outlet uses the tranny line that runs on top.
So couldn't I just flush the car by disconnecting the line and letting all the fluid come out and just refilling it?
Registered User
if you live in cold climate, you must connect your tranny lines to the bottom of the engine radiator - so it would heat it in the winter.
also it has some cooling effect, especially in the traffic jam, as I got limp mode very fast when disconnected it for summer and wired it directly to Stillen transmission cooler!
also it has some cooling effect, especially in the traffic jam, as I got limp mode very fast when disconnected it for summer and wired it directly to Stillen transmission cooler!
Registered User
Eric@TCGMiami
Registered User
close
- Join DateJan 2007
- LocationMiami, FL
- Posts:1,311
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(4)
-
Likes:104
-
Liked:73 Times in 52 Posts
Quote:
also it has some cooling effect, especially in the traffic jam, as I got limp mode very fast when disconnected it for summer and wired it directly to Stillen transmission cooler!
With OEM radiator this is null....Originally Posted by harp00n
if you live in cold climate, you must connect your tranny lines to the bottom of the engine radiator - so it would heat it in the winter. also it has some cooling effect, especially in the traffic jam, as I got limp mode very fast when disconnected it for summer and wired it directly to Stillen transmission cooler!
The temp on the radiator keeps the temp for the trans oil at a constant.
Registered User
vqsmile
Registered User
close
- Join DateOct 2010
- LocationSF bayarea (925)
- Posts:3,945
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(1)
-
Likes:188
-
Liked:427 Times in 368 Posts
Quote:
To make sure which tranny line was which...the one top of the bottom. One runs on top of the other. I disconnected both lines and had my brother turn the car on. The tranny line running on the bottom shot out tranny fluid while the bottom did nothing. So basically that tells me the bottom tranny line goes to the top of the radiator and bottom of the radiator outlet uses the tranny line that runs on top.
So couldn't I just flush the car by disconnecting the line and letting all the fluid come out and just refilling it?
I'm not sure. The theory certainly seems obvious enough, but before doing it I'd suggest considering a few random thoughts:Originally Posted by G35_916
Another update:To make sure which tranny line was which...the one top of the bottom. One runs on top of the other. I disconnected both lines and had my brother turn the car on. The tranny line running on the bottom shot out tranny fluid while the bottom did nothing. So basically that tells me the bottom tranny line goes to the top of the radiator and bottom of the radiator outlet uses the tranny line that runs on top.
So couldn't I just flush the car by disconnecting the line and letting all the fluid come out and just refilling it?
I would think you have to verify that the fluid it completely at the end of its cycle and does not continue on anywhere else except back to the reservoir in the pan. If the cooling loop actually occurs mid-circuit, meaning it continues on to other hydraulic functions after cooling, then I could see problems with letting the return line run dry while you did the flush. I know the dealer/pros have machines that intercept the fluid in the cooling circuit, but they also inject the same amount they remove back into the return line simultaneously.
Another consideration could be whether or not you can gravity pour your replacement fluid through a narrow funnel at a rate that will keep up with the flow rate of a pressurized fluid line. You don't want to take the chance on ever letting it run dry.
Thanks for the updates and let us know how it turns out.
Registered User
vqsmile
Registered User
close
- Join DateOct 2010
- LocationSF bayarea (925)
- Posts:3,945
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(1)
-
Likes:188
-
Liked:427 Times in 368 Posts
Quote:
The temp on the radiator keeps the temp for the trans oil at a constant.
If I understood him correctly, I think that was exactly his point. He was just stating the fact that in very cold climates (remember, he's from Ukraine), you CAN"T run without your tranny fluid circulating through the radiator, as it serves to warm the fluid up to normal radiator temps.Originally Posted by Eric@TCGMiami
With OEM radiator this is null....The temp on the radiator keeps the temp for the trans oil at a constant.
VQsmile,
Thanks and you may certainly have a point. Now that I have it routed and understand it for the most part, I'm like I might as well do it. But damn those little details..lol
Here is a link for thought
http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p...on_service.htm
This is a DIY for a first gen G35 coupe. He basically drained the pan. Refilled it. Then disconnected the return line and turned the car on. He only did 4 quarts or so. Do you think by continously filling the pan one should be able to see when clean fluid is coming out?
Here is another from a fellow member...
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-gen...-make-diy.html
Thanks and you may certainly have a point. Now that I have it routed and understand it for the most part, I'm like I might as well do it. But damn those little details..lol
Here is a link for thought
http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p...on_service.htm
This is a DIY for a first gen G35 coupe. He basically drained the pan. Refilled it. Then disconnected the return line and turned the car on. He only did 4 quarts or so. Do you think by continously filling the pan one should be able to see when clean fluid is coming out?
Here is another from a fellow member...
https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-gen...-make-diy.html
Registered User
GCC spec cars have two coolers. One in the radiator and another small external cooler just like the Stillen aftermarket one.
Everywhere else the autos have a radiator cooler.
Everywhere else the autos have a radiator cooler.
Update...
Followed the DIY that I listed earlier and was able to exchange about 8 quarts. Me so happy!!! Everything is good. Thanks to everyone for chiming in.
Followed the DIY that I listed earlier and was able to exchange about 8 quarts. Me so happy!!! Everything is good. Thanks to everyone for chiming in.
Registered User
Eric@TCGMiami
Registered User
close
- Join DateJan 2007
- LocationMiami, FL
- Posts:1,311
-
iTrader Positive Feedback100
-
iTrader Feedback Score(4)
-
Likes:104
-
Liked:73 Times in 52 Posts
How is the car driving now? better than before?
