What size wheel spacers?
Sorry, I have no input on that. I'd hate to see you order them based on 'hope' though, so I suggest you do a bit more research about it so that you're not. I know the answer is all over this forum. G/L
Here's my thinking, but correct me if I'm wrong:
- ARP studs are stronger than 1-pc spacer/studs
- I would think a stong single stud connected directly at the source is better than an attachment on an attachment. You could maybe argue it's no different if installed correctly, but it does add more variables for error and I don't see how it could be better.
Any additional weight and stress is not ideal, but if it can hold up it provides show (flush) and go (wider track) and it's reasonably affordable.
Without a doubt wheels with the correct offset are better, but I don't really have $2k+ to spend on rims and the forged OEM 19's aren't that shabby to start with.
- ARP studs are stronger than 1-pc spacer/studs
- I would think a stong single stud connected directly at the source is better than an attachment on an attachment. You could maybe argue it's no different if installed correctly, but it does add more variables for error and I don't see how it could be better.
Any additional weight and stress is not ideal, but if it can hold up it provides show (flush) and go (wider track) and it's reasonably affordable.
Without a doubt wheels with the correct offset are better, but I don't really have $2k+ to spend on rims and the forged OEM 19's aren't that shabby to start with.
Here's my thinking, but correct me if I'm wrong:
- ARP studs are stronger than 1-pc spacer/studs
- I would think a strong single stud connected directly at the source is better than an attachment on an attachment. You could maybe argue it's no different if installed correctly, but it does add more variables for error and I don't see how it could be better.
Any additional weight and stress is not ideal, but if it can hold up it provides show (flush) and go (wider track) and it's reasonably affordable.
Without a doubt wheels with the correct offset are better, but I don't really have $2k+ to spend on rims and the forged OEM 19's aren't that shabby to start with.
- ARP studs are stronger than 1-pc spacer/studs
- I would think a strong single stud connected directly at the source is better than an attachment on an attachment. You could maybe argue it's no different if installed correctly, but it does add more variables for error and I don't see how it could be better.
Any additional weight and stress is not ideal, but if it can hold up it provides show (flush) and go (wider track) and it's reasonably affordable.
Without a doubt wheels with the correct offset are better, but I don't really have $2k+ to spend on rims and the forged OEM 19's aren't that shabby to start with.
Ok, I'll bite:
1) This isn't really an apples to apples comparison; you could theoretically use ARP studs with a 1-pc spacer
However, while it is true that ARP studs are of higher tensile strength than stock studs (which I'm assuming was what you're referring to), when used inappropriately, their limits can still readily be exceeded. 2) Unfortunately, the physics don't back up that assumption, and f you think about it, our entire car is pretty much 'attachments-to-attachments'. As for variables, there's really no accounting for stupid. IF someone installs an ARP stud incorrectly (ie. not fully seated), they are just as likely to experience a loose lug nut as someone who does a poor installation of the 1-piece.

All this being said, I know people can and will continue to use what they can get away with. People also build houses in flood plains or on the beach in hurricane territories; heck, it's all good until the right situation arises.
1) This isn't really an apples to apples comparison; you could theoretically use ARP studs with a 1-pc spacer
However, while it is true that ARP studs are of higher tensile strength than stock studs (which I'm assuming was what you're referring to), when used inappropriately, their limits can still readily be exceeded.
However, while it is true that ARP studs are of higher tensile strength than stock studs (which I'm assuming was what you're referring to), when used inappropriately, their limits can still readily be exceeded. 2) Unfortunately, the physics don't back up that assumption, and f you think about it, our entire car is pretty much 'attachments-to-attachments'. As for variables, there's really no accounting for stupid. IF someone installs an ARP stud incorrectly (ie. not fully seated), they are just as likely to experience a loose lug nut as someone who does a poor installation of the 1-piece. 

To solve issues it usually helps to remove variables, not add them. Can you reply assuming both methods are installed correctly?
As for usage, let's go with what most people here do. Daily driver with some occasional aggressive driving
Anything can exceed its limited when used inappropriately. (Precisely, so don't use a stud in a manner it's not intended for, even if it is a stronger stud.)
Anything can fail if installed correctly. (Ok, but it's certainly less common if it's installed correctly AND in the manner it was designed to be used.)
To solve issues it usually helps to remove variables, not add them. Can you reply assuming both methods are installed correctly? ( Sure, the 1-piece is superior, period!)
As for usage, let's go with what most people here do. Daily driver with some occasional aggressive driving
(Why would I do that? The majority of people who drive an Infiniti probably pay for maintenance, and quite possibly even at a dealership. Does that mean I should do likewise? You can follow the herd all you want, I just try and offer a reality check for those who may be willing to consider it. Do some reading on the physics of the situation and you'll see what I'm talking about.)
Sorry my friend, no digging is required. Clearly you're missing the point and don't recognize the difference in increased side loading on the studs that an additional slip plane adds. A bolt on spacer adds zero additional side load stress to the studs so it is 100% consistent with the intended use of the studs. Like I said, do some research; you'll see that I'm not BSing. I am however, uninterested in sparring with you on this. My mistake for initially biting I guess.
No, I was actually engaging you on this because I thought you may be able to add some insight - and maybe you have.
1 strong stud > 2 weak(er) studs
I have a tough time escaping this because the greatest (and most serious concern) with spacers is studs failing. Most spacer problems are caused by improper installation (agreed), but I've seen more (properly installed) 1pc spacer/studs fail, then ARP with hub centric slip-ons.
Wheel bearings on our car will go with no modifications; I'm not worried if one of those needs to be replaced. For a show car, sign me up for 1pc spacer/studs. For a DD that sees some aggressive action, I'm still leaning ARP.
1 strong stud > 2 weak(er) studs
I have a tough time escaping this because the greatest (and most serious concern) with spacers is studs failing. Most spacer problems are caused by improper installation (agreed), but I've seen more (properly installed) 1pc spacer/studs fail, then ARP with hub centric slip-ons.
Wheel bearings on our car will go with no modifications; I'm not worried if one of those needs to be replaced. For a show car, sign me up for 1pc spacer/studs. For a DD that sees some aggressive action, I'm still leaning ARP.
I am running Ichiba 38mm's with the 37 rims (mixturepinoy runs the same size spacers) and with the OEM tires there was no rubbing issues.
Last year I went with the Invo's 275 35 19 rears and 245 40 19 front and only have slight rubbing on the fronts when hitting a speed bump or a big dip.
I prefer more of a "squared" tire vs the poked look and also gives the rims a little more protection against rash so the Invo's fit the bill.
I know this will change if I lower it but nothing a good fender roll won't take care of - I routinely carry 170 pounds plus of weight ( aircraft batteries) in the trunk on the highway for my business and have not had any issues with bearing wear from weight or spacers either.
Seems many are scared of the spacer thing but I think if you search you will not find any horror stories with anyone using name brand spacers.
Last year I went with the Invo's 275 35 19 rears and 245 40 19 front and only have slight rubbing on the fronts when hitting a speed bump or a big dip.
I prefer more of a "squared" tire vs the poked look and also gives the rims a little more protection against rash so the Invo's fit the bill.
I know this will change if I lower it but nothing a good fender roll won't take care of - I routinely carry 170 pounds plus of weight ( aircraft batteries) in the trunk on the highway for my business and have not had any issues with bearing wear from weight or spacers either.
Seems many are scared of the spacer thing but I think if you search you will not find any horror stories with anyone using name brand spacers.
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marsman328
Northern California
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Aug 11, 2015 07:29 PM




