G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08 Discussion about the 2nd Generation G35 Sedan 2007 - 08

What size wheel spacers?

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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 11:48 PM
  #16  
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Vq, right on. I will do that Monday. I hope that 20mm doesn't cause rub I think it will make the rims look much nicer on the car.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Nismo86

... I hope that 20mm doesn't cause rub ....
Sorry, I have no input on that. I'd hate to see you order them based on 'hope' though, so I suggest you do a bit more research about it so that you're not. I know the answer is all over this forum. G/L
 
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Old Apr 27, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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Bump anyone? I haven't read much about 20mm rubbing but it's harder to find info for the sport sedan.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...g35-sedan.html
 
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Old Jun 27, 2012 | 11:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by VMRWheels
I think if you're planning on getting something pretty large though, you should get the bolt on type spacer, rather than get longer studs. If you torque the nuts down properly they should not come loose.
I think this is the only thread I've seen 1-pc spacer with built-in studs over hub centric slip-ons with longer ARP studs
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by NYT
I think this is the only thread I've seen 1-pc spacer with built-in studs over hub centric slip-ons with longer ARP studs
Well, there's actually quite a few of them around because I know I have responded to quite a few over the last few years. I end up feeling like a broken record though. There's really no credible argument as to whether or not the one piece is superior in strength. The popularity of the other method is really based more upon the imperial observations of what people can "get a way with". At low speeds and with no heavy torque applications or side loading, I can see how folks come to believe they are good enough. Unfortunately that's not all that's ever expected of our cars. SO. . . if it were me, I'd want to know that if and when they were seriously challenged, I could count on them with my life. We're all adults here, and folks can do as they like. I just think people should be informed so they can make their own best choices
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #22  
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Here's my thinking, but correct me if I'm wrong:
- ARP studs are stronger than 1-pc spacer/studs
- I would think a stong single stud connected directly at the source is better than an attachment on an attachment. You could maybe argue it's no different if installed correctly, but it does add more variables for error and I don't see how it could be better.

Any additional weight and stress is not ideal, but if it can hold up it provides show (flush) and go (wider track) and it's reasonably affordable.

Without a doubt wheels with the correct offset are better, but I don't really have $2k+ to spend on rims and the forged OEM 19's aren't that shabby to start with.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 12:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by NYT
Here's my thinking, but correct me if I'm wrong:

- ARP studs are stronger than 1-pc spacer/studs

- I would think a strong single stud connected directly at the source is better than an attachment on an attachment. You could maybe argue it's no different if installed correctly, but it does add more variables for error and I don't see how it could be better.

Any additional weight and stress is not ideal, but if it can hold up it provides show (flush) and go (wider track) and it's reasonably affordable.

Without a doubt wheels with the correct offset are better, but I don't really have $2k+ to spend on rims and the forged OEM 19's aren't that shabby to start with.

Ok, I'll bite:

1) This isn't really an apples to apples comparison; you could theoretically use ARP studs with a 1-pc spacer However, while it is true that ARP studs are of higher tensile strength than stock studs (which I'm assuming was what you're referring to), when used inappropriately, their limits can still readily be exceeded.

2) Unfortunately, the physics don't back up that assumption, and f you think about it, our entire car is pretty much 'attachments-to-attachments'. As for variables, there's really no accounting for stupid. IF someone installs an ARP stud incorrectly (ie. not fully seated), they are just as likely to experience a loose lug nut as someone who does a poor installation of the 1-piece.

All this being said, I know people can and will continue to use what they can get away with. People also build houses in flood plains or on the beach in hurricane territories; heck, it's all good until the right situation arises.
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
1) This isn't really an apples to apples comparison; you could theoretically use ARP studs with a 1-pc spacer However, while it is true that ARP studs are of higher tensile strength than stock studs (which I'm assuming was what you're referring to), when used inappropriately, their limits can still readily be exceeded.
Anything can exceed its limited when used inappropriately.

Originally Posted by vqsmile
2) Unfortunately, the physics don't back up that assumption, and f you think about it, our entire car is pretty much 'attachments-to-attachments'. As for variables, there's really no accounting for stupid. IF someone installs an ARP stud incorrectly (ie. not fully seated), they are just as likely to experience a loose lug nut as someone who does a poor installation of the 1-piece.
Anything can fail if installed correctly.


To solve issues it usually helps to remove variables, not add them. Can you reply assuming both methods are installed correctly?

As for usage, let's go with what most people here do. Daily driver with some occasional aggressive driving
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 06:35 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by NYT

Anything can exceed its limited when used inappropriately. (Precisely, so don't use a stud in a manner it's not intended for, even if it is a stronger stud.)


Anything can fail if installed correctly. (Ok, but it's certainly less common if it's installed correctly AND in the manner it was designed to be used.)


To solve issues it usually helps to remove variables, not add them. Can you reply assuming both methods are installed correctly? ( Sure, the 1-piece is superior, period!)

As for usage, let's go with what most people here do. Daily driver with some occasional aggressive driving (Why would I do that? The majority of people who drive an Infiniti probably pay for maintenance, and quite possibly even at a dealership. Does that mean I should do likewise? You can follow the herd all you want, I just try and offer a reality check for those who may be willing to consider it. Do some reading on the physics of the situation and you'll see what I'm talking about.)
 
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 09:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
Precisely, so don't use a stud in a manner it's not intended for
You think the OEM studs are intended for 1pc spacer/studs?

Try digging up
 
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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 12:39 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by NYT
You think the OEM studs are intended for 1pc spacer/studs?

Try digging up
Sorry my friend, no digging is required. Clearly you're missing the point and don't recognize the difference in increased side loading on the studs that an additional slip plane adds. A bolt on spacer adds zero additional side load stress to the studs so it is 100% consistent with the intended use of the studs. Like I said, do some research; you'll see that I'm not BSing. I am however, uninterested in sparring with you on this. My mistake for initially biting I guess.
 
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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 08:04 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
My mistake for initially biting I guess.
No, I was actually engaging you on this because I thought you may be able to add some insight - and maybe you have.

1 strong stud > 2 weak(er) studs

I have a tough time escaping this because the greatest (and most serious concern) with spacers is studs failing. Most spacer problems are caused by improper installation (agreed), but I've seen more (properly installed) 1pc spacer/studs fail, then ARP with hub centric slip-ons.

Wheel bearings on our car will go with no modifications; I'm not worried if one of those needs to be replaced. For a show car, sign me up for 1pc spacer/studs. For a DD that sees some aggressive action, I'm still leaning ARP.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 10:41 AM
  #29  
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vqsmile,
What brand 1-pc spacer/stud do you recommend? A lot of bad press about Ichiba on here, most eBay'er claim to have no issues... what's "good"?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #30  
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I am running Ichiba 38mm's with the 37 rims (mixturepinoy runs the same size spacers) and with the OEM tires there was no rubbing issues.
Last year I went with the Invo's 275 35 19 rears and 245 40 19 front and only have slight rubbing on the fronts when hitting a speed bump or a big dip.
I prefer more of a "squared" tire vs the poked look and also gives the rims a little more protection against rash so the Invo's fit the bill.
I know this will change if I lower it but nothing a good fender roll won't take care of - I routinely carry 170 pounds plus of weight ( aircraft batteries) in the trunk on the highway for my business and have not had any issues with bearing wear from weight or spacers either.

Seems many are scared of the spacer thing but I think if you search you will not find any horror stories with anyone using name brand spacers.
 
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