Maybe were lucky whereI am were have z clinic and 5auto. My experience with dealers where its your dime is they replace expensive part after part until they find it, and you pay Labor and parts all the way.

 

^ thats crazy that a dealership would not stock a basic rebuilt kit. As a parts manager at a Harley dealership I know how things work around a (motorcyle ) Dealership. That being said I probably have no clue how a car dealership works. ALL of our techs are factory certified but not all of them can swap a motor. We have always had a master tech or two on hand that can handle any job from a frame job to motor rebuild, to building a custom wiring harness. I could build a Harley from the ground up with the parts I have in stock ( lol minus the frame).

 

Thankfully we wont have to pay for the part that didnt even fix the problem, I dont know how much labor we're going to get nailed for though.

Thanks to all the well wishers, i cant wait for this problem to be over and done with.

 

Just another little update to our situation. The dealer called us and said after one of the techs played with the wiring some more, he figured a replacement BCM would help. its 300ish. Should be in tomorrow so fingers crossed.

 

Finally after 2 and a half weeks at the dealer, they found the problem. Turns out there were a couple spliced wires, and it shorted out the ignition switch as well as the battery. The switch is kinda expensive ($650) but the dealer was nice about it and gave us the battery and switch at cost. They also only charged us 1.5 hrs labour ($150). I usually try not to rely on the stealership normally and they took awhile to find the actual problem but overall experience with them was not as bad as I thought it would be. Very pleasant service manager to deal with. Anyway, if anyone has a similar problem, this may be a possible solution.

 

Wow great to hear, not all stealerships are useless I'm sure they've earned your repeat business now for doing the right thing!

 

Hmmm . . So it wasn't the BCM either, after all?

I am curious who spliced these wires they are attributing the problem to? And was it: a) a factory splice, b) a splice made by a third party for some aftermarket reasons, c) a splice made by the dealership during their current rounds of troubleshooting ???????


(Glad it's fixed regardless)

 

sorry to bump this thread as i've got the same problem but to the OP did you get the steering wheel and button in the display? Dealer has narrowed it down to a bad fuse box and I believe the steering wheel safety lock is part of the problem as well

 

If anyone could chime in on this situation. Just like above, my 08 G35x would not start. I have checked fuses and tightened the battery poles last week. I got a call from my brother and he encouraged me to change the battery in the iKey, so I did, and my baby purred. Until this morning on my way to work, same issue but the "no key" light came on, this didn't happen before, so I brought my backup key and tried that, nothing. I changed the battery in that key, and still nothing. A friend said maybe to use the manual key to lock the door and then unlock it (although my iKey unlocks and locks the doors) to reset the security alarm, and still nothing. Any suggestions, really cannot go to the dealer, look at what this guy went through.

 

I have a 2008 Infiniti G35 mine has done the same thing. When this occurs I usually unlock my steering column move it up and down the indicator in the dash goes away it's yellow 🔑 symbol. I hope this is helpful to you