Did a little more digging around today and realized that it isn't pushing air out, it is sucking air in. So.... i think im just going to leave it be for awhile until I can get back home over winter break and drop it off. The car throws no codes, doesn't run rough or anything, so i think its fine.

 

Yes, it would definitely be sucking. What you're hearing is a vacuum leak at the plenum.


IMHO . . .

If the leak continues to exist, the issue is unmetered air entering the intake will throw off the ecu and afr balance. The ecu will not know the air has been ingested since it didn't pass through the MAF, so it's only going to inject enough fuel for the air it knows about and any extra air will tip the afr to the lean side of stoich. I don't know how much it can tell from the later reading it gets from the cats and whether it's enough to enrich the fuel dynamically or not. Tuning afr's is generally not something I tinker with; I pay someone to do that kind of work. So I guess what I'm saying is that it MAY be a problem to run it that way. I certainly wouldn't drive it hard by any means just in case it is running lean. Did you try sealing it any? I guess you could plug that hole and test around it for a leak with some spray starter fluid or something. I think the degree of risk is directly proportional to the degree on air it's ingesting. If it's virtually minimal, I don't think it's of great concern, but if it's really sucking air, it should be fixed sooner rather than later.

.02

 

^ well explained!

Liek i said before have the same dealer that worked on the plenum before own up and fix it else try if your other dealer sympathizes with you and fixes it under warranty else contact corporate with a copy of the work order receipt from when they worked on your car last.

Worst case scenario you might have to replace the plenum yourself which is not too hard to do by yourself

 

I know it sounds bad, and nobody really wants to know they've had their car repaired that way, but . . .if there's a small crack in a plastic plenum, it can possibly be fixed quite satisfactorily (until a replacement is available) with JB Weld, provided it's all prepped and applied properly. Just a thought.

 

It isn't leaking unless i pull the screw out. When the screw is in, it blocks the leak and doesn't allow it to suck air through.
I called the dealer today and I put so many miles on that Im out of the warranty period from when they would have seen my car (1 year or 12k. Im at 13k)

 

I wouldn't worry about the 3-1/2 weeks then; just keep a close eye (and ear) on it. I still wouldn't drive it too hard though.

 

Im only planning on driving it to work and back for the next 3 weeks (3 weeks from tonight is when I go home) then that 200 mile drive.

Just going to drop it at the dealer and have them take a look at it. I was on the phone with my service manager for probably an hour today talking to him so we will see. He said its more than likely fine to drive he just wants to take a look at it when Im home.

 

Sorry to hear Janik. I'm curious to hear the final outcome, this isn't something I've ever heard of. And vqsmile, great posts, really!!

 

This really shouldnt be a warranty issue. someone damaged your car. however, i guess its impossible to tell who.



if you can find the vacuum leak, JB weld (or heck, i have even used duck tape temporarily) will do just fine.


if you decide to skip the repair, and replace the whole plenum, its cake too. six bolts in the center, and various hose clamps. right angle plyers are clutch for that. I believe motordyne sells "upgraded" plenums

 

This.

 

THX

(I get lucky once in awhile)

 

Well, the upper collector is cracked. He doesn't think it would be covered by warranty. Parts are around $350... mother ****. Called the dealer, she had no idea (i am in california right now so I cant just get the car and drive over) so I called my dealer back and talked to the service manager. He was ncie enough to call the dealer back (that did the work) and talk to the service manager. He thinks since it was in May, that it probably wasnt them. But really, how often do you pull your engine covers off? I NEVER do and never did so im freaking pissed.

Going to call him back tomorrow. Idk what to do. Replace it myself or have them do it? Sounds like its around $350 either way. Im so pissed. I cant believe they did that to me.

The dealer I am at now is a lot better. I am hoping he will help me out with the price of labor or something. i need the car fixed so i can drive it back to school. Ugh.

 

Try and get a part number from them (or do some searching online) and shop it yourself. It shouldn't be hard to install, so doing it yourself may save any labor charges plus, if you shop it online, you can usually pick it up at a significant discount from what most dealers charge for parts. It's still not great, but you ay be able to whittle it down into the 200s instead of the 300's.

And lastly, there's always the repair approach which may get you by for a while; at least until you're a little more flush with funding for unexpected expenses or you can source a used one from a salvage yard.

 

Has anyone installed one of these before? It can't be that difficult...

 

here ya go, doesn't sound too bad.

Looks like you attach a plug to prevent draining engine coolant, sounds like the way to go, unless you think it's due to change anyways. And use a torque wrench! If you don't have the FSM I can send it to you, you have to loosen and tighten the bolts in a certain order, there is a pic in the manual. I've always wondered how durable this thing was, it was metal on 1st gen's and plastic now....


Remove engine cover (1) with power tool.
2. Remove air cleaner case and air duct (RH and LH). Refer to EM-26, "Exploded View".
3. Remove electric throttle control actuator as follows:
a. Drain engine coolant, or when water hoses are disconnected, attach plug to prevent engine coolant leakage.
CAUTION:
• Perform this step when engine is cold.
• Never spill engine coolant on drive belt.
b. Disconnect water hoses from electric throttle control actuator. when engine coolant is not drained from
radiator, attach plug to water hoses to prevent engine coolant leakage.
c. Disconnect harness connector.
d. Loosen mounting bolts in reverse order as shown in the figure.
NOTE:
• When removing only intake manifold collector, move electric
throttle control actuator without disconnecting the water hose.
• The figure shows the electric throttle control actuator (bank 1)
viewed from the air duct side.
• Viewed from the air duct side, order of loosening mounting
bolts of electric throttle control actuator (bank 2) is the same
as that of the electric throttle control actuator (bank 1).
CAUTION:
Handle carefully to avoid any shock to electric throttle control
actuator.
4. Disconnect vacuum hose, PCV hose and EVAP hose from intake manifold collector.
5. Remove EVAP canister purge volume control solenoid valve and EVAP tube assembly from intake manifold
collector.
mounting bolts and nuts with power tool in the reverse
order as shown in the figure to remove intake manifold collector.
INSTALLATION
Note the following, and install in the reverse order of removal.
INTAKE MANIFOLD COLLECTOR
• If stud bolts were removed, install them and tighten to the specified torque below.
• Tighten mounting bolts and nuts in numerical order as shown in the
figure.
WATER HOSE
• Insert hose by 27 to 32 mm (1.06 to 1.26 in) from connector end.
• Clamp hose at location of 3 to 7 mm (0.12 to 0.28 in) from hose end.
ELECTRIC THROTTLE CONTROL ACTUATOR (BANK 1 AND BANK 2)
• Tighten in numerical order as shown in the figure.
NOTE:
• The figure shows the electric throttle control actuator (bank 1)
viewed from the air duct side.
• Viewed from the air duct side, order of tightening mounting bolts
of electric throttle control actuator (bank 2) is the same as that of
the electric throttle control actuator (bank 1).
• Perform the “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” when harness
connector of electric throttle control actuator is disconnected.
Refer to EC-17, "THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION
LEARNING : Description".
• Perform the “Idle Air Volume Learning” and “Throttle Valve Closed
Position Learning” when electric throttle control actuator is replaced. Refer to EC-17, "IDLE AIR VOLUME
LEARNING : Description" and EC-17, "THROTTLE VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING : Description".
: Engine front
JPBIA0012ZZ
: 10.8 N·m (1.1 kg-m, 8 ft-lb)
: Engine front
JPBIA0012ZZ
JPBIA0011ZZ
Revision: 2008