G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08 Discussion about the 2nd Generation G35 Sedan 2007 - 08

The G is not being herself lately... Limp Mode, Hissing Noise, Etc.

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  #31  
Old 03-13-2012, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by rvanderwerf

here ya go, doesn't sound too bad.

Looks like you attach a plug to prevent draining engine coolant, sounds like the way to go, unless you think it's due to change anyways. And use a torque wrench! If you don't have the FSM I can send it to you, you have to loosen and tighten the bolts in a certain order, there is a pic in the manual. I've always wondered how durable this thing was, it was metal on 1st gen's and plastic now....

...
Agreed. Looks like the hardest part is doing those darn throttle and idle relearn procedures. Just in case you don't know, a special note regarding the torque wrench though: make sure it reads INCH POUNDS in the range you need to work in (remember, 12 inch lbs = 1 ft lb.). It's not just your typical torque wrench. I have special separate one reserved just for those finer delicate torque specs. It's pretty much useless for anything else.
 
  #32  
Old 03-13-2012, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
Agreed. Looks like the hardest part is doing those darn throttle and idle relearn procedures. Just in case you don't know, a special note regarding the torque wrench though: make sure it reads INCH POUNDS in the range you need to work in. It's not just your typical torque wrench. I have special separate one reserved just for those finer delicate torque specs. It's pretty much useless for anything else.

haha yeah, I learned that the hard way once, and broke a bolt on my truck. In this case though, the FSM calls for the bolts to be tightened down to 8 ft-lbs.
10.8 N·m (1.1 kg-m, 8 ft-lb)

But yeah you need a in-lbs one for the jobs. The little wrench in the FSM will be black for in-lbs and white for ft-lbs.
 
  #33  
Old 03-13-2012, 12:49 PM
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^^ But usually, you can't even find a torque wrench that reads ft lbs. on that low of a scale (ie. single digit). Instead you get an inch lb. reading and you must do the conversion. Plus, on an ft.lb. wrench, you'd lose the 11 increments of precision in between each ft.lb.
 
  #34  
Old 03-13-2012, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
^^ But usually, you can't even find a torque wrench that reads ft lbs. on that low of a scale (ie. single digit). Instead you get an inch lb. reading and you must do the conversion. Plus, on an ft.lb. wrench, you'd lose the 11 increments of precision in between each ft.lb.
Good point you are correct, most only go down to 20, or 10 at the lowest! I wonder why they didn't specify it in in-lbs instead? According to google that translates to 96 in. lbs.

That's probably how his broke, a tech was too lazy to use the correct wrench and cracked his!
 
  #35  
Old 03-13-2012, 01:33 PM
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LOL @ using google

there's 12 inches to the foot, so 8 (ft.lbs) = 8 x (12 in.lbs) = 96 ft.lbs.
 
  #36  
Old 03-20-2012, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Wannabe6MT
Idk what the hell is going on with my car but it must be that time of the month. Even after I treat her to a wash and wax yesterday, shes still pulling some **** on me.

I noticed about a month ago that once the car was warmed, i'd hear a knocking noise in the engine bay, and i could feel the knock through the engine cover on top of the motor. Chalked it up to my exhaust being loose and ignored it.

Yesterday it was making the noise something fierce so I took it down to autozone to have it scanned. Scanned out nothing so the autozone guy came out and we looked over the engine bay and he heard the knocking. He thought it sounded like plastic hitting something. So i undid the engine cover and after taking off the 4 outside screws, I did the middle. The second it was free, it started to hiss and blow air out and the idle and everything dipped and jumped and the car nearly died before I screwed it back in quick.

Turned the car off, removed it, then tried to start it again without the screw, same thing. Screw in, start the car, everythings fine (even though I think the car idles too low) Dinked with the engine cover and eventually I got the rattle noise to go away (and haven't heard it since yesterday either) but that screw concerned me. So i called my dealer (back in Minneapolis, 3.5 hours away) and he got back to me this morning, said that that did not seem to be normal as they drive around without engine covers all the time while testing things that have been fixed and that it was purely decorational. His idea that something was over drill or something when the other dealer did work on my car last summer. Make cracked the upper plenum or intake manifold?? I have 0 idea. The entire top of the motor is plastic unlike my 05 which had a completely cast motor, no plastic.

Tonight, we were running to Autozone to see my roommate (Songle6MT) and as I was pulling out of my alley, it was kind of icy and the car slipped and slipped then killed on me from the revs not being high enough (curse you tricky clutch!). So i restarted and the Slip and VDC Off lights were on. I was like, oh ****. So i restarted it and the lights were still on. Said **** and drove it the 3 blocks to Autozone. The car would not go above like 2k and would getVERY herky jerky and the revs would bounce. I think it was in limp mode. Got it down there, lights still on, and scanned the car. No codes found. Let it sit for about 5 minutes, then restarted. No lights. Take it for a drive, and all is well. Wtf??? Did i just trip it while I was on the ice or what??

I wont be home until March 9th for spring break and was planning on just dropping the car off on the way to the airport. I'll be in Cali so i'll have cell coverage to talk to my service manager, but i am getting slightly concerned here and am looking to you guys for some peace of mind since its a solid 3.5 weeks until I'll be back in Minneapolis. Just wondering if ANYONE has ever seen anything like either of these issues? The car is pretty much stock and its under full power train warranty until 2014 so im not terribly concerned. I was thinking the revs dipped might be a dirty TB since it has 45k and hasn't been cleaned.

ANY insight would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Must be Time of the Month.... You know.....Women
 
  #37  
Old 03-20-2012, 08:18 PM
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Any updates on this ?
 
  #38  
Old 03-21-2012, 02:09 PM
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Yes. The car's upper collector was indeed cracked. Had the dealer just fix it while I was gone in California. Part was $450 EVERYWHERE and it was $570 installed through them so I said screw it and just had them do it. I have warranty on this car for a few years yet and I wasn't going to risk having the motor blow or something then have it not be covered because I decided to save $120 and be stuck buying a new motor or something if the car ever decides to grenade itself.

All is well now and the dealer through in a new throwout bearing as well since my transmission made a little grind at startup when it was cold.
 
  #39  
Old 03-21-2012, 03:38 PM
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^ good to hear you fixed it but ouch the prices SUCK!!!
 
  #40  
Old 03-21-2012, 05:12 PM
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Everyone I talked to actually said they weren't bad for a dealer. I mean, i essentially had them replace a good chunk of the top of the engine and the intake manifold area.
 
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