For the past 23k+ miles dropped conservatively on BC's, i've ran without a camber kit with not much of tire wear to speak of.

About 6 months ago i went for my yearly alignment and for some reason nothing would go back to spec (usually toe can be coaxed to spec range with a bit of camber, which is what i ran for the longest time). It started eating through my tires.

Fast forward 3 months, i had to get a re-alignment and do a full rotation/swap on the tires. Again, the alignment would not cooperate and actually got worse.

This is the same shop that i've used for years, same tech and same equipment. He couldn't understand it either.

So today i finally had the Eibach front/rear camber kits, that have gathered dust all these years in the garage, installed.

Right off the lift, the tire noise has changed for the better, it now also tracks and rides nicer (i guess since it's the full flat contact patch doing the tire/road duty, versus mostly an angled patch.)

As some of you know, i've long been a proponent that it's okay to run without an alignment kit when dropped conservatively. After today, i have to admit it's nice to be "green" and aligned again.

On the upside, my wheels are now flusher than they've ever been.

As a sidenote, also got the rear Eibach sways and Modme's adjustable rear endlinks installed. Awesome combo!

 

Nice, did you have the rear toe bolt installed? I've got the spc rear kit maxed out but best I can do is -1.7 camber, while toe is very close to 0. I didn't install the toe bolt. Will greater toe adjustability allow my camber to be brought closer to 0? What was your final camber read on the rear? Thanks!

 

Sure did! But, couldn't get the lock-out kit installed due to clearances and its compromise on the adjustability, so we left that part out.

Here's the alignment sheet, plenty of adjustability left. I asked that it be as close to the lower end of the spec'd range with still a little camber in the rear for stability -- the lower #'s are mainly to help combat the uneven wear i experienced the past few months. I'll be going back in later this year to add just a little bit more camber all-around.

 

I had my front camber dialed in to where you have it now and you could definitely tell that cornering was not as crisp. I have it -0.8/0.9 right now and don't notice any abnormal tire wear--still well within limits.

 

Camber Sissies

 

Agreed, it feels different for sure, even now that the rear sways are on. Less lean, but different.

Not so much the camber, but toe. I was running outside spec for a long time with no issues. Somehow toe just started going and doing the kits is the only way to get it right again.

 

I'm so glad I just bit the bullet and got the arms & toe bolts (and didn't wait forever to install them Mike, lol) from the start. I'm pretty low so I doubt I'd be able to get close to spec anyway. Glad you're liking your "new" G

 

Go Camber or Go Home!!!!!

 

For those of you who installed the toe bolts yourself was the material you were cutting steel? The brace in the back on my car is painted black and is steel and not aluminum like all the DIY's for the first gen g coupes and Z's. I went through two #115 dremel bits and barely removed any metal at all. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!

 

Tom, had the same exact problem. Just use those thin cut-off wafers for your dremel, they're about 1/64" thick and about an inch in diameter. This will allow your dremel to be in a perpendicular position to the slot so you can have easy access and see what you're doing.
I used a sharp exacto blade to mark the inside of the template and this left a nice silver etch to see while I was cutting. The wafer gets smaller as you cut so it gets into the tighter spots as you go. Took about 15 minutes per slot, and it's much cheaper than those 115 bits
Just be sure to cut just enough so the toe bolt spins snugly, don't want it spinning too loose in the slot, so just take it easy!

 

I dunno. I just used 2 dremel 115 bits for the job and thought they worked fine. Not saying it was like cutting through butter but doable.

 

Thanks for the quick response.... do you happen to know the dremel part # for these discs or perhaps provide a link to the disc you think you might have used? Could it possibly be this disc?

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessor...l.aspx?pid=420

 

How much material is being cut away? I have been searching for this info or even pics for a bit now.

 

http://www.batit.com/forumpics/spctoeboltinstall.pdf

^ this but they're cutting through aluminum and our sedans are steel so it's not as easy

 

Lol