how much free play would be normal for the brake pedal? I feel like mine goes down a lot before it does something compared to a new car I just bought. I have new rear brake pads but the front once aren't new, is this because of this? or is it something to do with the brake fluid?

 

The FSM lists brake pedal free play as being between 2 - 8 mm.

DO your brakes grip well and stop firmly once applied? Or do you feel you need to apply extra pressure (and brake pedal travel) to make them work properly?

 

yea it grips fairly well after it catches. but there is some travel needed between when my brake light comes on and brake gripping. I can cruise down the street with my brake light on without slowing down at all, is this normal?

 

Well, it's really hard to tell what's up with yours over the internet, but I'm pretty sure I can get my brake light to come on without really actuating the brakes much, if at all, so I just can't say if that's what you mean or not. If the pedal is traveling an inordinate distance before it takes up the brakes, then I would be thinking about a brake booster/master cylinder issue or possibly a pedal adjustment. But then it seems you would have noticed this before. Did the symptoms come on suddenly, or has it always been that way?

 

Mine goes down quite a bit but that's because I need new rotors and pads, hehe. I actually have them on the way. When I drive a newer Infiniti there isn't much travel before you start touching the rotors but the lights will usually come on if you barely touch the brakes in my experience...

 

I had this all along ever since I bought the car second hand. I know how to check when brake pads need replacing, but when do I know if my rotors/calipers need replacing? thanks

 

Calipers can outlast the car if properly serviced. The rotors need replacing when they are worn to the point where they cannot be 'trued' within the acceptable minimum thickness tolerance. You will most likely not be able to determine this as it takes a micrometer and a run-out indicator. A general rule of thumb is that the rotors can usually be turned once and possibly twice before needing replacement. That being said, many folks will just replace them since they can do that themselves, rather than paying for the labor and having them turned.

 

how do I service the calipers?

 

They don't necessarily need to be serviced unless upon visual examination you find that it is leaking or things are rusted or something. Just add brake grease/lubricant to parts that move or are in constant friction with one another when changing brake pads and/or rotors. The parts you should be worried about is pads and rotors. Make sure the brake lines are intact and not showing any class leaks.

I always do my own work but every so often I take my car to the dealership to get an inspection from them for double check on my work or anything that I've missed.

 

Just your basic brake maintenance stuff; keep the pads lubed, the glide pins lubed, the fluid changed regularly, and replace any seals or dust boots that may be leaking.

 

alright thanks for the input guys! really appreciate it. My pads are good I'm pretty sure, new rear and front when I bought the car they said 70% left, and to my knowledge if the pads are really really worn out like less than 10% they are suppose to start squeak really loudly cause they have some built in stuff at the end of the pads to notify people? I know that brake can be squeaky when its not worn out, but I read that somewhere not sure though.

 

Pads don't always squeak from being worn out. My pads are still thick and I hear this constant god forsaken squealing... when I went in for a rotation they must have done something cause my pad squeaks much less.

I have 38k on my pads and it still has 50%+ life left... all highway miles ofcourse.

 

bleed your brakes!