Hey Guys,
Just checking with the Masses to see if anyone else has had similar issues with their car.
Last year I had the P0021 (Intake Timing Control) come on and the dealer replaced the sensor in Bank 2.

One Month later the code came back and they cleared it and told me my oil was dirty which wasn't the case as it was freshly changed and never goes beyond the recommend service interval (at least since I've owned the car). Well needless to say the code has come back on 4 more occasions with the latest coming today. Two weeks ago it came on and they cleared and said they don't know where it's coming from.

Today they told me my K&n air filters could be causing it and also recommended an injector Flush, throttle service and tune up. To top it off they said all of these repairs may or may not correct the problem. So they wanted me to spend the $700+ to make these repairs which may not fix my problem?!?!?

I'm at a loss of what could be causing these issues, and find it amusing the Dealer is taking a stab in the dark to try and circumvent the problem.

Has anyone else had a similar issues and if so what was your cause?

Thanks!!

 

I would not do any of their recommended solutions. And people run K&N filters just fine. Where K&N filters are problematic is when you clean and re-oil it yourself and end up using way too much oil that mucks up the MAF. That said, I do not think that is your problem. Search google for P0021 (if you haven't already) and see if that might help.

 

Tech Notes: Since the Intake valve timing control solenoid valve uses oil flow to control timing, dirty oil can cause the valve to stuck open or close. Before replacing the valve, change engine oil and filter and reset engine code.

http://engine-codes.com/p0021_nissan.html

 

Sean, even though you have changed your oil , since you got your car used, is there the possiblity that it may not have be serviced frequently enough by the previous owner/s. What I'm wondering about is if there is some sludge/varnish buildup in the variable valve timing system, causing some stickiness in the control valve, which then triggers the CEL.

There is something simlar to this which occurs in the older Miata1.8 VVT engines as well, and many folks have seen significant improvement by running Rotella T-6 synthetic, as it is supposed to have great detergent properties. I have never used it myself, since I have never needed the cleaning abilities. Before you spend a ton of money on unknown fixes, this might be a less expensive experiment for you.

 

Thanks for the input guys. I actually had the Valve solenoid replaced by the dealer under warranty last September.
I think I'll try the Rotella and give it a go. I've used both Mobil 1 and Royal Purple since I've had the car which will be 3 years this august.

I also read and had input from an mechanic friend who mentioned that it could be the seal to the timing chain leaking and causing a loss of pressure through the Solenoid causing the CEL?

I just put in fresh Mobil 1 on Saturday and will pick some of the Rotella T6 stuff up for me next change.

 

^^ Just so you know, although I'm not 100% sure about this, I believe the T-6 only comes in heavier viscosities that what's typically called for in our cars; it's like a 5W-40 or thicker. Given that you're up north, I can't imagine you'd run that in the winter, so if you do plan on running it, you may want to consider doing it in the summer.

 

Thanks for all your help!

I'll keep you posted

 

Canadiam35X did you ever fix the ses light problem. I have the same issues

 

I have the P0011 the bank 1 code for the intake timing control. Been dealing with the code for ages, I done engine flush and etc I even opened the timing covers to see inside and everything was in working order. I also checked all the possible sensors/solenoid and no luck. I just have a sticker over the light now haha, out of sight out of mind.

 

Do you have the 3 little rings on the timing cover?

 

I never figured out the problem, but I haven't had the light come on in a while. I did add some Lucas Oil two oil changes ago (don't hate I know the snake oil theory on this stuff) and since it hasn't come back. It may just be coincidence, but so far so good.

 

Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer?

 

CanadianG35X YOU ARE THE MAN!

Here is my summary. Got 90k tune up in June 2012 (89xxx) 100 miles later SES light. I didn't drive my G that much over the past year, apprx 1200 miles. I pulled codes and P0011 and P0021 showed up. After notifying the stealership and scheduling an appt. the light shut off. After 6 months and 600 miles SES is on again. Stealership recommended oil flush $280. with diagnostics charge. Low and behold 120 miles later SES light is on again. I notify them and before I could bring it in light shuts off. Eventually SES light shows up again and I get sensors changed and reset by my private mechanic $240. After 100 miles it shows up again. My mechanic advised me this engine is notorious for cam sprocket wear or the cam covers needed to be replaced. Everything was fine and car ran smooth so he reset it for me just to get it smogged. He advised that the repair was $3500 and wanted to spare me the pain and just drive it. He told me that the repair may or may not fix the SES light problem. After smog (thank god the light did not turn on or I would have had to get it fixed) light returned for apprx. 250 miles. I flushed the engine with Gunk and added Royal purple SES reset but returned after 35 miles. Added Lucas synthetic stabilizer on Monday it is Thursday and the light went off by itself. WTF!!!!

 

Did you pour the whole quart of Lucas stabilizer? I am having the same problem.

 

The most common reason for P0021 or P0011 on the HR engine is cracked galley gasket seals.