When i went to pick the part up from infiniti they didn't tell me anything special to do and just gave me the part itself (no box, no directions). So i just assumed there were no directions and just plugged the new switch in. Are there a certain set of steps I need to do?

 

Dealership parts like that generally never come with instructions, and that's how pretty much any dealership parts guy will sell you parts; they figure if you know what to purchase, then you probably know how to install it.

Moving on . . .

you need to go to here: ( http://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/local_links.php?catid=7 ) and after registering for free you can download a pdf file of the pertinent section of the factory service manual that you need to verify the correct adjustment. The section you want is the "Brake System", and if you look therein at the "Brake Pedal - inspections and adjustments" (on or about page BR-7), you will see the required specs. A couple things to note; the dimension specs they keep referring to in the text can be found at the end of the entire Brake System pdf in the "SDS- Service Data and Specifications" (on or about page BR-62). Additionally, you'll notice there is another switch on the pedal, the ASCD switch (which stands for "Automatic Speed Control Device") which works in conjunction with your cruise control. You might also double check it's specs while you're down there.

With all that being said, I had wondered about the possibility of another cause for your original transmission symptoms, that being a glitch in the actual interlocking device that physically impedes your shifting out of park. I'm not sure what it's called, but I'd suspect something like 'brake/transmission interlock solenoid' or somethink like that. Basically, it's what would activate the shifter's locking function as a logical result of the system reading the brake switch position. It's just a thought.

Lastly, I think after you get the brake switch adjusted properly and eliminate all the light show, you might do well to reset the ecu to clear any codes; pending or otherwise.

 

okay ill look into that now, also ive come to notice that once i do get it out of park it then proceeds to work fine if i put it into park again, it seems that once the car is warm it has no problems. Very confusing, i seem to always come across these puzzling issues with my car

 

i know i really shouldnt be driving the car in the state its in now, but just making sure im not doing any real damage to the car in the state its in now? and would a quick solution to this problem because i need to drive to boston on sunday for the knicks celtics game (go knicks) is just keeping it in neutral and shutting off the car and just using the parking brake a possible option?

 

I guess that could theoretically work for you, but if you are still getting the whole dashboard 'light show' after swapping out that switch, then my concern would be for it to reach some kind of threshold of tolerance for driving with the brake 'applied' and trigger the limp-mode condition I described earlier. Just to be 100% certain though, this all started right after you changed the switch, right? And your brake fluid reservoir has definitely been topped off, right?

You wouldn't want to be trying to drive on the freeway at a gutless 45mph tops.

 

The lights only came on two occasions but once they came on I shut the car off and then started it back up and had no problems with the lights or getting my car out of park as stated before it seems once car is warmed up it doesn't have an issue but the engine and tranny seem to be working fine shifting smoothly and no lag or higher rpms then expected. Yes brake fluid is topped off and doesn't seem to be draining, got my brakes done a couple months ago because those lights were popping up but once I did that those lights went away. And yes the lights popped up twice AFTER replacing the brake check switch but I believe that was my doing by playing around with the switch to try and get it out of park

 

could my car be going into limb mode slowly without me knowing and one day it will just go full limb mode? even when the lights arent on at all times?

 

I'd still suggest double checking the specs on your installation of that switch; if it was tripping the lights (even just when cold) it could be right at the borderline.

Just so I understand where it sands now, is the tranny shifter still intermittently locking since you cahnged the switch? If so, does it only correspond with when the lights go off?

Unless you were just idling or driving under 20mph, I don't think there's any way to mistake the limp-mode symptom. WHen I experienced it, I couldn't even pull out onto a 30mph residential street without feeling the balking of the engine, and getting all the way up to 40mph took a good long distance to accomplish.

 

As of today the only time i experienced the shifter locking was this morning when i first started up the car but no lights came on when it wouldnt shift out of park and after i got it working, but all day it has worked normally so maybe it took just a little while to get used to the new switch or it was as you stated on the borderline and maybe me playing around with it to get it started this morning i got it into the right position or does that sound very unlikely? but im going to re check my steps of the install tmrw when i have some free time.

 

After finding all of the fuses in the cabin fuse block do not have power, check the connectors at the positive battery terminal power distribution assembly. You will need to remove battery cover plastic trim and the positive battery lead. There are 2 connectors under the power distribution assembly that

The connector outlined in red delivers power to cabin fuse block.
must be fully clicked into position. Hope this saves you some time!