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Hey this is very great to hear, can I get the part number for the nissan part? Also would it cross reference with the 08 g35x?
I answered you in the other thread, but I'll comment here for the benefit of anyone else later on. The part is a Nissan part, but then ALL Infiniti parts are actually Nissan parts given that "Infiniti" as a brand is only an abstraction for the USA and other pretentious countries. It's all just Nissan for the rest of the world. Anyway, in your case, i.e for the AWD, the correct part number would be: 54613-JK50B.
As far as I can tell, it was used for Nissan branded cars at one time, but has since been discontinued and is no longer available from Nissan dealerships, so you'll have to get it from an Infiniti parts source. It will still be in a bag clearly labeled "Nissan" though! GO figure.
After a recent heat spell, I finally got sick of it and pulled the sway bushings off and lubed the snot out of them with silicone and figured that would be the end of it. Well, as it turns out, it did absolutely nothing to the noise.
OOOOkay, so next, I put the car up on ramps, dropped the belly pan (again), opened the hood and made my wife climb up on the radiator support, then had her bounce up and down while I listened from underneath. Sonofab&*tch if it wasn't those same bushings I just lubed (still dripping yet) that were squeaking up a storm.
After removing them again, I noted that the inner mating surface of the bushing rubber (to the bar) was all rough and textured, like an inner fibrous weave was starting to come through (reinforcing maybe?). Anyway, I also noted that the sway bar also felt rough, with little ridges running parallel to the bar all around its circumference, but only where the rubber had been covering it. It appears that the roughness of the fiber inside the old bushings had worn grooves into the powder coated paint on the sway bar. This is most likely what was causing all the racket, in spite of the generous portion of some very slippery silicon lube that I'd used.
So, I called up local Infiniti and Nissan dealerships in my area for pricing on replacement bushings. Infiniti wanted something like $16 a piece, while Nissan had them for (what they claimed was full "list" price of) $7.42 each. Same exact part, with the same exact part number, in the same exact bag, with the same exact labeling. Thanks for nothing Infiniti!
I went ahead and used some scotch brite pad to buff the sway bar smooth again before installing the new bushings and added a swab of some silicone grease before buttoning them up. It's been a few weeks now, and after some more 95* weather, with the AC running flat out (to generate as much heat on them as possible), I can finally say that the dreaded squeak is GONE!
TLDR: It's the sway bushings! Lube alone won't do it; you need to replace them and make sure the bar is smooth where it meets them.
/thread
Thanks for the info VQ.
I was wondering, is the process of changing this bushing difficult?
Can you briefly go over what you had to do in order to change this and how long it took to complete?
I was wondering, is the process of changing this bushing difficult?
Can you briefly go over what you had to do in order to change this and how long it took to complete?
Also, did you have to buy two bushings?
_Michael
Michael, it is a very simple job. If you can change a tire, you can change these bushings!
Yes, you do need two of them.
There are countless DIY's online for doing the job, as the procedure is fairly universal for nearly all makes and models. Here is one from a respected member that used to post here often: http://gshack.org/?p=258
It's all pretty much self explanatory once you get down there and look at it. Basically, to gain access to the bushings for replacement, you just need to lift the front of the car on ramps or a couple of jack stands, remove the belly pan for access to the bar and bushings, then loosen the 2 bolts holding each of the bushing saddle clamps onto the frame (four bolts total). You can skip loosening the end link bolts if you use an empty cardboard box or something to prop up the bar (it's heavy and will want to swing clear down under the car) so it does not drop down more than a couple inches from its normal position while you swap out the old bushings. Note: Allowing the bar to swing down all the way while the endlink bolts are still tight can damage the endlink bushings. All you need is a few inches or so, just to be able to get at the bushings.
The metal bushing saddle clamps fit quite snugly around the bushing and bar, but they will pop off and allow you free access to spread open the rubber bushings at their seam (they're split) and pop them off the bar as well. Before you put the new bushings back on, make sure the bar is clean and smooth where it rides in the bushing. On mine, I just used a scotchbrite pad to buff the roughness off the bar. Anyway, get some silicone grease and smear them up real good inside before you snap the new bushings back over the bar, then add some more inside the saddle clamps. Then bolt is all back up and they should be squeak free for years to come.
The whole process can be done in well under an hour, but you may want to go ahead and include an oil change at the same time since you'll have it all opened and ready for easy access as well.
Michael, it is a very simple job. If you can change a tire, you can change these bushings!
Yes, you do need two of them.
There are countless DIY's online for doing the job, as the procedure is fairly universal for nearly all makes and models. Here is one from a respected member that used to post here often: http://gshack.org/?p=258
It's all pretty much self explanatory once you get down there and look at it. Basically, to gain access to the bushings for replacement, you just need to lift the front of the car on ramps or a couple of jack stands, remove the belly pan for access to the bar and bushings, then loosen the 2 bolts holding each of the bushing saddle clamps onto the frame (four bolts total). You can skip loosening the end link bolts if you use an empty cardboard box or something to prop up the bar (it's heavy and will want to swing clear down under the car) so it does not drop down more than a couple inches from its normal position while you swap out the old bushings. Note: Allowing the bar to swing down all the way while the endlink bolts are still tight can damage the endlink bushings. All you need is a few inches or so, just to be able to get at the bushings.
The metal bushing saddle clamps fit quite snugly around the bushing and bar, but they will pop off and allow you free access to spread open the rubber bushings at their seam (they're split) and pop them off the bar as well. Before you put the new bushings back on, make sure the bar is clean and smooth where it rides in the bushing. On mine, I just used a scotchbrite pad to buff the roughness off the bar. Anyway, get some silicone grease and smear them up real good inside before you snap the new bushings back over the bar, then add some more inside the saddle clamps. Then bolt is all back up and they should be squeak free for years to come.
The whole process can be done in well under an hour, but you may want to go ahead and include an oil change at the same time since you'll have it all opened and ready for easy access as well.
Have fun.
Thanks for pointing out that other thread, it is well written and like you said, this looks like a pretty easy job.
I am definitely going undertake this swap because it is a cheap and low time-consuming method to get rid of my creaks.
Even if it doesn't solve the issue, it was at least an attempt at trying to do so.
Michael, it is a very simple job. If you can change a tire, you can change these bushings!
Yes, you do need two of them.
There are countless DIY's online for doing the job, as the procedure is fairly universal for nearly all makes and models. Here is one from a respected member that used to post here often: http://gshack.org/?p=258
It's all pretty much self explanatory once you get down there and look at it. Basically, to gain access to the bushings for replacement, you just need to lift the front of the car on ramps or a couple of jack stands, remove the belly pan for access to the bar and bushings, then loosen the 2 bolts holding each of the bushing saddle clamps onto the frame (four bolts total). You can skip loosening the end link bolts if you use an empty cardboard box or something to prop up the bar (it's heavy and will want to swing clear down under the car) so it does not drop down more than a couple inches from its normal position while you swap out the old bushings. Note: Allowing the bar to swing down all the way while the endlink bolts are still tight can damage the endlink bushings. All you need is a few inches or so, just to be able to get at the bushings.
The metal bushing saddle clamps fit quite snugly around the bushing and bar, but they will pop off and allow you free access to spread open the rubber bushings at their seam (they're split) and pop them off the bar as well. Before you put the new bushings back on, make sure the bar is clean and smooth where it rides in the bushing. On mine, I just used a scotchbrite pad to buff the roughness off the bar. Anyway, get some silicone grease and smear them up real good inside before you snap the new bushings back over the bar, then add some more inside the saddle clamps. Then bolt is all back up and they should be squeak free for years to come.
The whole process can be done in well under an hour, but you may want to go ahead and include an oil change at the same time since you'll have it all opened and ready for easy access as well.
Have fun.
Hey VQ.
Again, thanks for all your help.
I was wondering if I could pick your brain yet again.
Ok, so I ordered the sway bushing and familiarized myself with the installation process which seems pretty straight forward.
I was wondering, do you know if the G37s Coupe sway bars offer any performance gains over my current G35 Journey sways?
The reason I ask is, when I bought my car, the previous owner included a spring lowering kit and front and rear sways from a G37s Coupe.
I have no desire to lower the car, but since I am going to put these new bushings on, is it even worth it to mess with the g37 sways, or should I just swap out the bushings?
... do you know if the G37s Coupe sway bars offer any performance gains over my current G35 Journey sways?
...
I have no desire to lower the car, but since I am going to put these new bushings on, is it even worth it to mess with the g37 sways, or should I just swap out the bushings?
What do you think?
_Michael
Michael, I haven't personally verified it, but it is my understanding that those coupe sways do offer a modest increase in stiffness. I don't know the exact numbers, but I've seen some estimations (based on info from Hotchkis) that the fronts are +25% and the rears are +125% in comparison to the G35 V36 sedan sways.
As to whether or not that constitutes a performance gain is a rather subjective question. You can find many accounts of people rushing to put stiffer sways on, only to be (sometimes secretly) disappointed with the harshness of the resulting ride. I think it depends a lot on what you primarily intend to use the car for. If it's 99% daily driver, then you really may want to consider whether or not you want to stiffen it at all.
That being said, if the stiffness numbers I mentioned are accurate, it shouldn't be a huge step-up in stiffness, in fact you may not notice the fronts at all. The rears would have more influence there, and will most likely shift the handling bias from decidedly under-steering to a bit more toward neutral or over-steering. Again, whether that is an improvement is subjective. I do prefer a more neutral handling car myself, but some people absolutely freak when the rear of the car 'presents itself' as you set up for a turn. With the power these cars have, I have always found it just as easy to use a little throttle induced over-steer to compensate for the stock bias. YMMV.
I think once you have swapped out a set of front bushings, you will see that the job really isn't that big of a deal to do, and with that thought in mind, I guess I'd say just go ahead and swap out those front bushings first. That way, you will verify if they are fixing your ORIGINAL problem or not. Then, if and when you do decide you want to try changing things up a bit, you'll be an old pro and the repetition won't be much of an inconvenience at all. To be honest though, swapping the rear sways is quite a bit more work than the fronts, since you have the exhaust to contend with.
One last thought, if you do end up deciding to change your sways to an EVEN stiffer aftermarket set (like the Hotchkis), you want to seriously consider upgrading the stock endlinks as well, as they can, and do, break under the increased strain.
I agree with everything you are saying, I guess the "performance" can be subjective.
I have since decided to put on the G37s sway bars in the front and back. I found a local shop around here that rents out their shop bay with hydraulic lift and all the tools you could imagine for a great price so I am going to do the front and back sways along with a rotor resurface and new brakes.
I painted the sways "banner red" so hopefully someone at the shop will confuse them with the Eibach sway bars
I am just waiting on the bushings for the back sway and then I can go to work. I am liking the idea of a subtle shift in stiffness without altering the smooth ride that is my G35 Journey. As soon as I am done I will also run the A/C at full blast and let my car idle to see if it fixed the creaking/groaning issues that I have been plauged with in the summer days.
It 74 degrees here in Cali so the temperature is rising anyways.
I will let you know how the install goes and the final verdict on the creaking noises. Thanks again for all your help.
I put on the new sway bars and bushings this weekend and I ran my A/C for at least an hour two days in a row and it eliminated the creaks and groans.
I also resurfaced the rotors, all new brakes, serpentine belt, and some fluids.
The car feels great and I like the G37s sways a lot. It was a subtle shift in stiffness but isn't too high performance. Plus it didn't take very long. Dropping the rear exhaust was the hardest part but I rented a lift so it was pretty easy.
Anyways, I am pretty sure if you have this A/C caused noise you can just pop off the front bushings and lube them and put them back on. I noticed on my stock sway bar in the front that it was a little rough as you stated.
The new sways look slick (not that you can see them normally) and they feel great and the noise is gone.
btw, using that lift looks so luxurious; I'm totally jelly.
Yeah man it was so nice not working on my back.
This shop rents their lift and any tool you could want for $30 an hour.
So worth it. Total time there was 3 hours. My friend and I just brought in a Bluetooth speaker, some red bull, and had a good time using pneumatic wrenches and the lift.
The serpentine belt was surprisingly easy and I checked the diff fluid level again and it was at the fill hole so I know I'm good.
So if I could just bump this thread, hoping you guys will notice...
Looking up this part number for a 2007 G35 Sport sedan AT, I'm getting the 54613JK06B part number.
That's on all of the Infiniti parts sources I've tried so far.
Looking up the part as a Nissan (370Z w/o Nismo,) I find the 54613JK06C part, and at least one site shows it as a substitute for the B part. On that site, the price difference is significant. $9.11 for the B part (and not in stock,) but only $3.53 for the C part.
So, is there really any difference between the two parts? Are there different sway bar dimensions between, say, the 370Z and the G35 Sport?
VQ, you put the C part on your '07 Sport (sedan?) successfully, yes?
So if I could just bump this thread, hoping you guys will notice...
Looking up this part number for a 2007 G35 Sport sedan AT, I'm getting the 54613JK06B part number.
That's on all of the Infiniti parts sources I've tried so far.
Looking up the part as a Nissan (370Z w/o Nismo,) I find the 54613JK06C part, and at least one site shows it as a substitute for the B part. On that site, the price difference is significant. $9.11 for the B part (and not in stock,) but only $3.53 for the C part.
So, is there really any difference between the two parts? Are there different sway bar dimensions between, say, the 370Z and the G35 Sport?
VQ, you put the C part on your '07 Sport (sedan?) successfully, yes?
It's just some weird thing in their parts listings. If you look up a 2008 G35 you'll see they call out the "C" version. Regardless, they are totally interchangeable. I have indeed been running them in my '07 Sport and they have been working perfectly. I'd say just buy whichever ones are the cheapest. Although, I will also say that $3.53 price almost looks too good to be true; like it's for an aftermarket (i.e. not factory) part or something. I'd suggest verifying before you order.
It's just some weird thing in their parts listings. If you look up a 2008 G35 you'll see they call out the "C" version. Regardless, they are totally interchangeable. I have indeed been running them in my '07 Sport and they have been working perfectly. I'd say just buy whichever ones are the cheapest. Although, I will also say that $3.53 price almost looks too good to be true; like it's for an aftermarket (i.e. not factory) part or something. I'd suggest verifying before you order.
Thanks for the confirmation. Yeah, I probably won't go with the that cheap bushing. Doesn't say OEM, and I'm not familiar with the site. Just one that popped up on a Google search for the part numbers.
I've learned with my Mazda that the Japanese seem to know what they're doing with rubber parts, and I've always regretted not going OEM when it comes to those.
01-09-2015, 04:11 PM
