G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08 Discussion about the 2nd Generation G35 Sedan 2007 - 08

Random Slip light at 2,000 RPM's

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Old Dec 2, 2013 | 10:11 AM
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Unhappy Random Slip light at 2,000 RPM's

Pretty much as the title states. I came back and charged by battery after about 3 weeks of sitting in my driveway (off at school brought a beater there). As I am pulling off my street I noticed that as soon as I hit about 2000 rpms, the Slip light comes on and cuts my power. This only happens in 1st gear too. No I am not hammering it, especially through my neighborhood. Actually very light on the throttle. On the main street I gave it alot more gas and same thing. Now when I turn traction control off... no slip light. As soon as I turn it back on, Slip light at first gear around the 2000-3000 rpm range. I am already doing like 15 ish at that point so I don't understand why its kicking on.

I do have aftermarket wheels on, however they have been on for about 2 years so I don't see why all of the sudden they would be creating a problem.

I looked through previous threads and all I could find was the slip light coming on with VDC due to low break fluid. My fluid isn't low and I have already checked pads and everything.

If there is a thread out there sorry to have missed it after about 40 minutes of searching lol.

But seems like this is kind of a unique issue here.

Anyone else experience this??
 

Last edited by Zomorg3; Dec 2, 2013 at 10:12 AM. Reason: I suck at grammer + spelling
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Zomorg3
...

I do have aftermarket wheels on, however they have been on for about 2 years so I don't see why all of the sudden they would be creating a problem.

...
It isn't the wheels that matter; it's the overall tire diameters. What size tires are you running on the front vs. the rear. If they are already borderline for overall F -> R diameter compatibility from the start (when new), then you could experience your symptoms if either the front or rear pair wore down more than the other (over time) and exaggerated the overall diameter difference.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 05:56 PM
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It was very close to one another like 0.03-4 percent difference. Before. They are only on like 6 -7 months. I am wondering if the dead battery had something to do with it because it should have died within a week. So is the computer messed up creating parasitic loss ?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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I would check the tire pressure on all four. Temperature drop in NJ could drop it down as much as 10psi. Its enough to affect rolling diameter if you were already borderline with the tire pressure to begin with.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 08:01 PM
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What dead battery?

I have had multiple drained batteries and really you shouldn't have issues from that. Maybe consider reset by disconnecting the battery. But just going to 2k and experiencing power loss is very disturbing. Almost like limp mode but in only one gear? Strange.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2013 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Zomorg3
It was very close to one another like 0.03-4 percent difference. Before. They are only on like 6 -7 months. I am wondering if the dead battery had something to do with it because it should have died within a week. So is the computer messed up creating parasitic loss ?
Well, that number (0.03%) can't be right.

Did you actually mean 0.3% - 0.4% . . . or did you mean 3% - 4% ????

Big difference.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by vqsmile
Well, that number (0.03%) can't be right.

Did you actually mean 0.3% - 0.4% . . . or did you mean 3% - 4% ????

Big difference.
sorry. I meant .3 - .4

But they aren't used full year around and the tread is still extremely fresh. I was wonder about tire pressure but even still I was like hmmm is there a limp mode? Because my car never activated that espeically when my battery was dying and the Infiniti Stealership ended up blowing my transmission because of it, and they never found out the issue. I had to....

But yea its only at that gear at that time. I didn't know if something is wrong with the computer because my battery has never died in a week before without using it. Though... would the cold weather be a contributing part to this? I do have an upgraded interstate battery because we all know the stock battery in our cars is a POS.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Do you have a camber kit with shims installed?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2013 | 07:36 PM
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Nope, stock camber, springs and height
 
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 11:36 PM
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Just checked all the air in the tires, all are good pressure and I am still having the problem.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 10:54 AM
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Let's assume for a second that the light flashes because the car thinks it's seeing a slip condition. Only way for that to happen is if a wheel slips. The input for that is a wheel sensor giving a reading that the wheel is in fact slipping.

It may be possible the issue lies in one of the sensors. Either debris in the speed sensor ring (they are magnetic and rely on magnetic field to get a reading) or a failing sensor due to moisture. Metal on the rings could rust while the car was sitting.


Might be a good idea to inspect and clean the ABS wheel sensors and check for damage or loose debris
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 06:03 PM
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Update:

So I completely drained the car of electricity to try and reset everything. Wala! It worked no more random slip light. I am wondering if when the car drained when I hadn't driven it for the week if it messed something up in the computer.

Plus the tune I reflashed back on seems to actually be responding better thank god lol.





Originally Posted by Mustang5L5
Let's assume for a second that the light flashes because the car thinks it's seeing a slip condition. Only way for that to happen is if a wheel slips. The input for that is a wheel sensor giving a reading that the wheel is in fact slipping.

It may be possible the issue lies in one of the sensors. Either debris in the speed sensor ring (they are magnetic and rely on magnetic field to get a reading) or a failing sensor due to moisture. Metal on the rings could rust while the car was sitting.


Might be a good idea to inspect and clean the ABS wheel sensors and check for damage or loose debris

I originally through that, however, there were too many variables like why the car was completely dead after not driving it for a few day when I would go a couple weeks before not driving it and the battery was still strong.

Haven't found any parasitic loss from the car when it was off, so possibly it didn't turn all the way off last time maybe and was stuck on ACC power....? But in the event the sensors were dirty, it would have had me slipping through the first two gears and it would have continued to slip if I kept it in first while going higher in the RPM. Plus I would have had sporadic instances of this before too. My parents QX56 have had some weird things happen to it, like computer issues or dash issues, which I found out when completely draining the car of electricity from all the circuits (Not the battery), it would usually fix all issue, except the ABS randomly kicking on which we found out not only the QX's had the issue, but Armadas and pathfinders too with Nissan/Infiniti knowing about it but not covering it under warrenty (including drivetrain to 60,000 miles since its not "considered" drive train)
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Zomorg3
Pretty much as the title states. I came back and charged by battery after about 3 weeks of sitting in my driveway (off at school brought a beater there). As I am pulling off my street I noticed that as soon as I hit about 2000 rpms, the Slip light comes on and cuts my power. This only happens in 1st gear too. No I am not hammering it, especially through my neighborhood. Actually very light on the throttle. On the main street I gave it alot more gas and same thing. Now when I turn traction control off... no slip light. As soon as I turn it back on, Slip light at first gear around the 2000-3000 rpm range. I am already doing like 15 ish at that point so I don't understand why its kicking on.

I do have aftermarket wheels on, however they have been on for about 2 years so I don't see why all of the sudden they would be creating a problem.

I looked through previous threads and all I could find was the slip light coming on with VDC due to low break fluid. My fluid isn't low and I have already checked pads and everything.

If there is a thread out there sorry to have missed it after about 40 minutes of searching lol.

But seems like this is kind of a unique issue here.

Anyone else experience this??
I had the exact same thing happen it was the level of break fluid. Tapped it off, never happened again. BTW where did you get hose sick running lights. I. Have a 07 g35 and those are the best I have seen.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 03:12 PM
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Yea it wasn't the normal VDC light for the brake fluid cause I had that too and I checked but...*Update*...hasn't come back since so since it aint broke, im not touching it.

However had to replace power steering pump

What model g35? Do you know if you have the sport bumper or not?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2014 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Zomorg3
Yea it wasn't the normal VDC light for the brake fluid cause I had that too and I checked but...*Update*...hasn't come back since so since it aint broke, im not touching it.

However had to replace power steering pump

What model g35? Do you know if you have the sport bumper or not?
Sedan not the sport bumper. That's why I liked your setup. It looks like the chrome reaches the sides of the fake vents. I'm putting my baby in the shop to get the bumper retouched.
Would love to have the shop put them in.
 
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