You need to reread the first page of this whole thread, around post 10 or 11. Since you have a 1st generation car, your problem is not gaskets, it is simply low on oil. Just reset your engine code and quit running it without oil and you should be fine, unless you've already done some damage by running it without oil.




EDIT: Don't appreciate the cute username that locks up the editor. Is this some kind of trolling attempt on your part or something?

 

dude mine broke , where the three black washers go, is that even possible, i got the codes checked the vtc and noticed it was broken with my dad , were ****ed.
any advice?

 

Please elaborate.
What broke?
What codes did you get?
Have you checked the oil pressure?

 

the thread where the three seals go , i went in today and two were warped around the aluminum stud and the third one was gone , and a sharp sheer was notced , they were p0011, and p0021 uploading images rn ow
any way i can get that VTC cover?

http://imgur.com/u98nxDc,EmP5DgP,PG5ut8U#0
http://imgur.com/u98nxDc,EmP5DgP,PG5ut8U#1
http://imgur.com/u98nxDc,EmP5DgP,PG5ut8U#2

 

First of all, is this even from an HR motor? Looking at your previous posts, it seems like you have a 1st gen (V35) coupe which has the DE motor. This whole thread primarily pertains to the 2nd gen (V36) cars with the HR motor. Have you read the whole thread?

It's pretty hard to tell what's going on those (poor) pictures. Is there any damage to the metal on that shaft? Or is all that jagged stuff just the remains of two broken seals? Did you look inside the cam sprocket hub to see if the broken bits are left inside? Perhaps they were just broken during removal of the cover.

If that is from a VQ35HR motor, then yes, either the cover or just the seals can be replaced. If this is from a DE motor, I would expect that they could also be easily replaced, but I have no experience with that motor in particular, so I can say for sure.

Also, if you're dealing with am HR motor, you will undoubtedly want to address those rear timing cover gaskets too.

 

I am experiencing this issue of low oil pressure. I have read a few threads about this happening in the 350z's as well. I am wondering if there is this part available for the 2003 350z's... I have only been able to find parts for this for the 2006 or newer models.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/13531-c...8-p-17116.html

This is one of the parts, but it is not available. Will the g35 part fit in the 350z? (assuming they have it!)

I commented in this thread and other in the 350z forums. This seems to have the largest following (and a lot of 350z threads point to this one!).

Thanks!

(Engine type is VQ35DE)

 

How did you go about fixing this? I have the DE Engine as well and cannot find the parts...

 

I highly doubt the same cover that fits an HR motor would fit a DE motor, If you just look at the link within the link you gave, there are clearly differences between them:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/350z-pa...5_716_726.html
Compare the top diagram (for a DE motor) to the two lower diagrams (for HR motors)

Besides, I don't even know that you can readily assume that if a DE had low oil pressure that the oil gallery gaskets are to blame (like you can on an HR motor).

To whom are you asking this question?

 

Yea the parts are not available for the DE.

I am quite sure that this is the issue (getting the same codes and others with a DE motor have encountered this issue over on the 350z forums). I am thinking if I remove this and attempt to do it myself, I will end up making my own gaskets for it.

Thanks for the reply!

 

Yeah, I wouldn't know about the DE's. If you do undertake this and come to a resolution, please come back here and post your results for any other 1st gen folks who may come looking later. Good luck.


Also, you might want to reread post #11, where Infinitidude talks about the most likely causes for these codes in the 1st gen cars.

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...ml#post6859185

 

Will do!

 

Did you ever come to a resolution? Have a gen 1 (2004) and I've been battling this issue. I've read and re-read this thread, and was disappointed to only see that the '06+ HR engine was affected by this specific issue.

Can anyone say for sure that a similar gasket exists in the VQ35DE (with or without replacing the entire rear timing cover)? The only diagrams of the engines I can find are poor, and I can't quite make out what part it would be. I'm planning on taking it to a shop, but I'd rather go in with an idea of what to tell them rather than just dropping it off with no clue and giving them the opportunity to artificially inflate the price of a repair that I don't need. I've read that it may be the rear main seal, the oil pump, etc. I've replaced the oil pressure sensor twice already, but I don't have the skill, time, or tools to tear the whole engine apart.

It's been driving me insane, does anyone have the faintest idea what the root of the issue is in the gen 1?

 

So, I am quite sure that is not the issue. I didn't have those codes in my car. I too replaced the pressure sensor and my oil pressure still is low at idle. I didn't believe it! It would basically say 0. I went and bought a mechanical gauge. My sensor in my car reads about 25psi lower than it should. I think it is my cars guage that is broken. II AM getting oil pressure as I have set up a mechanical gauge.

 

Interesting. Does your mechanical gauge setup replace the OEM at all times, or did you just set it up to test?

The funny part is I did originally have those two codes, P0011/P0021, plus a third that I can't remember which I think was mentioned earlier in this thread. I replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors, and it actually made it worse: My car wouldn't start at all, and when it did it threw timing way off. I put the original two sensors back in (thankfully I kept them), cleared the codes, and it's been running fine since.

A few months back, there was some really bad flash flooding from some storms (Florida) and I got caught in one. Not enough to flood the car or the engine since my driveway is pretty high, but there was enough water (and my car was low enough) to hit a patch which shorted out the oil pressure sensor. Now, I've replaced it before when it went out, showing 120 all the time, but it was a bit different this time. It would randomly jump between 0, 60, and 120 while driving, but no adverse effects on the car. I promptly replaced it again and did a full oil change. There was no water in the oil, so I figured that was good. It started reading again, but it seems to show around 30-40psi at cold crank, 10-15 when driving, and then drops to 0 at idle after driving for 5 minutes or so.

There's been no knocking, stalling, or performance loss from what I can tell, so I'm inclined to think that, like you, the sensor may be bad yet again. But I still don't think that's the only issue. I can definitely smell oil after driving, and there's a thin coat on the bottom of the trans casing. The last few oil changes have gradually been losing around 1+ quart, which I read might be the norm, but after seeing the oil on the underside and the few drops in the driveway, I'm convinced there's definitely a leak somewhere, and the symptoms of the codes + sensors + leak had me convinced that something along these lines was the issue.

I've been checking the oil regularly every few days for the last few hundred miles since the last change, and it's still full--yes I know the dipstick sucks, but I completely clean it and check it like 6 times each time. I feel like I'm already driving on borrowed time, so I figure I'll drive it until the next oil change, replace the oil pressure sensor again, and hope that was the only major problem. Ever since I've had the car, going on three years now, the car would always idle at a low PSI, so it never bothered me too much. I think the minimum reading should be 14, but mine was always a shade under that, somewhere around 8-15 after being warm. I figured the hot weather down here and 5W-30 was the combo that made the oil a bit more thin.

I'm about 2300 miles away from my next oil change and the weather here is starting to cool off, but once I do the next oil change I'll report back my findings. I apologize for the life story, but maybe someone out there is having a really specific issue like I am, and can benefit from it.

 

Mechanial guage just to test!

So, I am in a similar boat. Low oil pressure but it doesn't sound bad at all and nothing has been happening. What happened first was the pressure guage would show 120+ and be stuck there.I replaced the oil pressure sensor thing and then that's when the oil light came on. I replaced it again and it still happened. I suggest you go to harbor freight or any store and just buy a mechanical oil pressure sensor. U screw it into where you screw the oil pressure switch and then start the cad and it will tell u the correct reading. I got the gauge for like $15-$20. This has really have me a peace of mind about it.

Also! When you start the car, does the oil pressure needle have an IMMEDIATE response like ur rpms and stuff do? Or is there a tiny lag, like ..5 seconds? This is what leads me to believe that the actual gauge is broken. Some people have had this problem and had to flick the gauge to fix it... I read somewhere that if there is a small lag in the pressure sensor gauage, that could mean that's what causing it... But for now, when u change ur oil next just purchase a mechanical gauge and test it out. Only way to reallllly tell!