Cause for the dreaded P0011/P0021 codes that everyone is curious about
#421
By 35 psi at idle, did the dealership measure that at operating temp?
At 35 psi (at operating temp) oil pressure, I would be looking at other possible issues.
I tested oil pressure on my 04 G with a oil filter sandwich plate adapter and an oil pressure gauge from Harbor Freight. At operating temp (174* F as I recall the FSM calls out) I think had about 35psi at idle, and above 70psi at 2,000 rpmas I recall. That's with my VQ35DE on 5w-30 oil, I'm not sure what the spec's are for the HR.
IMO These motors will last a long time when maintained well (+ good oil pressure), so I would be hesitant to swap a used engine in that you have no idea about maintenance or overheating vs. fixing the gasket proactively. But, that's based on if/how long you plan to keep the car.
At 35 psi (at operating temp) oil pressure, I would be looking at other possible issues.
I tested oil pressure on my 04 G with a oil filter sandwich plate adapter and an oil pressure gauge from Harbor Freight. At operating temp (174* F as I recall the FSM calls out) I think had about 35psi at idle, and above 70psi at 2,000 rpmas I recall. That's with my VQ35DE on 5w-30 oil, I'm not sure what the spec's are for the HR.
IMO These motors will last a long time when maintained well (+ good oil pressure), so I would be hesitant to swap a used engine in that you have no idea about maintenance or overheating vs. fixing the gasket proactively. But, that's based on if/how long you plan to keep the car.
#422
Thank you both for the replies, very helpful. An up update from my end...
- the dealer says they measured it at 35 psi at idle
- got the car back today, and the oil pressure gauge shows very low psi (maybe around 10) at idle (photo attached). This is with a brand new sensor, so one would assume it’s reasonably accurate. Dealer says the discrepancy is because they measured in a different place than the gauge reads from
- as I was driving it, the gauge would read around 30 psi at 2k rpm, around 45 psi at 3k rpm, and as high as 75psi at 6k rpm. Is this lower than it should be in the VQ35HR? Cause for concern?
- I use the car as both a weekend cruiser (80%) and as a fun car for the twisties (20%). I don’t race it or redline it, but I’ll find a good back road and keep it between 3-5k rpm for a while.
again, any insight as to likelihood for causing further damage or any tips as to what I should be on the lookout for would be much appreciated.
- the dealer says they measured it at 35 psi at idle
- got the car back today, and the oil pressure gauge shows very low psi (maybe around 10) at idle (photo attached). This is with a brand new sensor, so one would assume it’s reasonably accurate. Dealer says the discrepancy is because they measured in a different place than the gauge reads from
- as I was driving it, the gauge would read around 30 psi at 2k rpm, around 45 psi at 3k rpm, and as high as 75psi at 6k rpm. Is this lower than it should be in the VQ35HR? Cause for concern?
- I use the car as both a weekend cruiser (80%) and as a fun car for the twisties (20%). I don’t race it or redline it, but I’ll find a good back road and keep it between 3-5k rpm for a while.
again, any insight as to likelihood for causing further damage or any tips as to what I should be on the lookout for would be much appreciated.
#423
Thank you both for the replies, very helpful. An up update from my end...
- the dealer says they measured it at 35 psi at idle
- got the car back today, and the oil pressure gauge shows very low psi (maybe around 10) at idle (photo attached). This is with a brand new sensor, so one would assume it’s reasonably accurate. Dealer says the discrepancy is because they measured in a different place than the gauge reads from
- as I was driving it, the gauge would read around 30 psi at 2k rpm, around 45 psi at 3k rpm, and as high as 75psi at 6k rpm. Is this lower than it should be in the VQ35HR? Cause for concern?
- I use the car as both a weekend cruiser (80%) and as a fun car for the twisties (20%). I don’t race it or redline it, but I’ll find a good back road and keep it between 3-5k rpm for a while.
again, any insight as to likelihood for causing further damage or any tips as to what I should be on the lookout for would be much appreciated.
Last edited by 350Zdriver06; 06-25-2020 at 09:17 AM.
#424
Hellppppp!!!!
Ok I have a 06 g35 I recently had my clutch replaced and now I have loss of power when driving when I start the car and give it gas at first it wants to stall and I’m pulling codes p0011 p0021 p0014 p0024 p0345 I’ve changed the sensors and changed the oil idk what else it could be
These are all the codes
These are all the codes
#425
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#426
I have a 2006 g35 coupe 6mT I have been pulling the same codes and have a dramatic loss in power I changed oil I changed the vvt solenoids cam position sensors and still having the same problem
On the V35 models like ours the P0011/P0021 codes are normally caused from low oil levels. If your oil level is ok then the intake valve timing solenoids may be bad as they work off of oil pressure. These are the 2 solenoids at the front of each valve cover and I think they have a green connector on passenger side and a blue connector on the driver side. We don't have the paper gaskets that blow out like the V36 models do. More than likely if you let your car sit for about 20 minutes and check the oil it is probably low. If it is low, just top it off and reset the ses light and you should be fine. Hope this helps bro...
#427
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Did you replace the CORRECT cam sensor though, on your engine there are 4.
Also for the future you should try to keep your '06 coupe questions in the correct thread. This thread is for an entirely different engine (2007+ VQ35HR).
I'll pm you the code chart picture so it doesn't clutter up the HR engine forum and give misinformation to future readers.
Also for the future you should try to keep your '06 coupe questions in the correct thread. This thread is for an entirely different engine (2007+ VQ35HR).
I'll pm you the code chart picture so it doesn't clutter up the HR engine forum and give misinformation to future readers.
#428
I fixed it my self
wanted to thank you for your post. I failed my inspection on my '06 coupe with both those codes. Of course the tech there is telling me it's a failed cam and crank sensor, wanting to repair them. Thought I would research it a bit more since they told me there was NO oil in the oil pan when went to change that. Of course the oil indicator is now off, but am pretty sure I'm blowing oil past a blown gasket as you suggested. Wasn't even considered or brought up at the shop, and thinking I'd be throwing away about $300 to repair those sensors that's probably not going to fix the problem.
Thanks for sending this our way...I'll be pulling the cover off and check that gasket
Thanks for sending this our way...I'll be pulling the cover off and check that gasket
#429
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#430
I have no indication that I am currently affected by this but still need to add an oil pressure gauge to confirm. I know at some point I will probably be affected but won't lose sleep over it.
That being said what would you think 3rd party repair cost on this one be?
I frankly wouldn't have the time to tear into it for repair but willing to throw some $$ as needed.
Wife has made it very clear she wants to keep this 14+ year old car we bought new and I have no issue with that. I still thoroughly enjoy it as well and everything works as good as new.
If I ever sold this ....one would get a very well maintained, truly fully loaded, and one owner '07 G35x.
That being said what would you think 3rd party repair cost on this one be?
I frankly wouldn't have the time to tear into it for repair but willing to throw some $$ as needed.
Wife has made it very clear she wants to keep this 14+ year old car we bought new and I have no issue with that. I still thoroughly enjoy it as well and everything works as good as new.
If I ever sold this ....one would get a very well maintained, truly fully loaded, and one owner '07 G35x.
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#431
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Call around and get a price quote for a timing chain replacement. If you're doing the galley gaskets you might as well refresh the timing assembly while it's out. I suspect it will cost you 1 extra hour of labor to add in the galley gasket, just be sure that YOU are supplying the galley gasket so you can get a quality one like the ones supplied by CZP or Z1.
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#433
Now the P0014 and P0024 are exhaust valve timing codes. These codes normally pop up due to the exhaust retarders going bad. Those are the 2 big caps so to speak on the front timing cover with the sensors in them. There is an electromagnetic clutch on the back of this that works with the exhaust cam sprocket and we do replace these on a sort of regular basis also. Parts are a little costly, but not as labor intensive as the rear timing cover gaskets. Once they are replaced, A Consult 3 scanner will need to be hooked up and an exhaust valve timing relearn procedure will need to be performed which has to be done with the car running at 3k rpms. Hope this provides a little more insight to these crazy codes.
I have a 2006 g35 6mt revup, I have the p0024 code and I tried the part #you listed below (13040-JK22B) and IPD said it doesn’t fit my vehicle. Would you happen to have the part # that would work for me? This code went away after a oil leak fix and oil change but came right back after 3 days. Thanks ahead of time
#434
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