There are 3 total chain tensioners but the primary is really the only one that goes bad, there are 3 total chains, two of them are small and just connect the intake and exhaust cam together on each bank, the big chain is the one that takes all the abuse though. Unless you're doing a rebuild I wouldn't even bother with the smaller chains or their respective tensioners.

Big chain, big chain tensioner AND THE GUIDE, water pump, and the two galley gaskets. Make sure you supply the galley gasket though and get it from either Concept Z Performance or Z1 Motorsports. I wouldn't trust other gaskets and I don't believe the factory OEM one is even available. Chain, tensioner, guide can be just about any brand, water pump it's best to just get an OEM Nissan one since they're not too expensive.

Thermostat is up to you, it can be replaced separately in the future so it's not that big of a deal, but it will be removed during the rest of the work so you might toss a new one in.

As for people who still had a P0011 or P0021 after doing the galley gaskets, they likely also had bad actuators or had a DE engine with a broken sprocket. The HR didn't have nearly the issues with the broken sprocket though.

 

Thank you for the advice. Really appreciate it. I did ended up getting all 3 chain tensioners, and crankshaft sprocket since they are replacing the main chain anyways. So that way everything is new minus the two smaller chains. Just a peace a mind since I plan on keeping the car. Thanks again.

 

Ohh yeah I totally forgot to mention the crankshaft sprocket, you would definitely want to replace that.

 

By the way I was not able to get a z1 oil gallery gasket in a reasonable time so I ordered one from https://www.nisformance.com/EPS-Tuni...rykitrwdhr.htm

i spoke to them and they assured me it is the best oil gallery gasket.

 

That should work fine, it's a composite gasket.

 

As I suspected I guess there is a way to test the oil pressure. You have to know the outside temperature, and the oil temperature has to be 80C and check it at that temperature which I’m well within specs. I found a mechanic go through it and he mentions to check it and write the numbers at that temperature.

 

Not sure how accurate the fix is. I have both codes on a separate 2005 g35 coupe AT. Note I also bought this engine due to blowing my last one. As soon as I got my car back from the shop, the codes were immediately there... I never had the time to get it fixed because no one seems to know what the issue is. However I noticed a huge decrease in power driving it. Before my engine had blew, I remember it was torque-y and decently quick. After the replacement, it felt like driving a honda civic. Little to no acceleration, weird rev bouncing etc... The car felt very sluggish, tried to doing ecu resets and what not obviously no change. What will fix these codes? Do the symptoms of my car align to the issue at hand?

 

Have you installed the Concept Z gaskets? I don't hear many folks using that brand but I know they generally make high quality parts and do like they provide data specs, but don't know any OEM data to compare as reference.

They say theirs is a Syntheseal material but doesn't mention any reinforcements like the EPS.

 

i used to own a DE a while back, and from what i recall, these codes on that engine could be due to low oil level.

 

Sorry for the late reply, basically any of the aftermarket gaskets are better than the OEM one.