Maybe this helps:

 

I know mine will likely succumb to this someday ..and when it does I will get it fixed. While I would like to tackle myself... I just don't have time these days and I still find my '07 G35x (I purchased new) a damn fine automobile.

 

Trying to see if anyone can help with the direction to take with my 08 g35.



Just got it couple of weeks ago. It had a code for p0021. Changed the oil with 5w30, and cleared the codes. The same p0021 came back and decided to clean the vct solenoid on the driver side which is the side with the p0021. Reset the code and it was back. So decided to order the vct solenoids from 1a auto. Cleared the code and did the relearn. Now I have codes for p0011, and p0021. It also seems to ping around 3k rpm’s.



Update:



Re installed the old vct solenoids and my code for p0011 is gone and the driving cycle is complete. The pinging is now gone and the code p0021 is still pending. Have not had an opportunity to check the oil pressure, but the oil light hasn’t been on.

 

It's probably the galley gasket, it's behind the timing chain so it's a pretty labor intensive job. Not really HARD to replace though, if you've ever done a timing chain before.

Concept Z Performance (and maybe Z1 Motorsports) makes an aftermarket galley gasket that's significantly stronger than the factory Nissan one. Might as well throw in a new water pump and primary timing chain tensioner while you're doing the galley gasket.

 

Thank you for the response. I’m going to check the oil pressure first to make sure. I’ve read people that did the whole gallery gasket, vct solenoids, camshaft position sensors and still p0021. Since it is such a big job I want to make sure. The car drives perfect.

Do you know which oil pressure kit works with the g35? Some people are saying that the adapters that come with the harbor freight kit won’t work with the g35 because it’s not npt and it’s gpt 28.

 

I don't know off hand what pipe thread it is, you could always have a local parts house pull an oil pressure sensor off the shelf so you could look.

 

I got the oil pressure gauge to test it. What a pain. It was around 15 psi at idle once warmed up and at 2k rpm it was hovering around 35 psi. My 350 de at idle is at like 30 psi and at 2k rpm’s sits around 55-60 psi.

 

That HR is running at about half the psi it should be, your DE has proper oil pressure. Likely your galley gaskets are a little blown out, not COMPLETELY, but it's almost definitely spraying oil if you're only hitting 35psi at 2k.

 

yeah I’m going to try Lucas oil stabilizer to try to get more life out of the engine and when it goes I’ll just buy a 50k mile HR engine. I’m already shopping around. I have 3 other vehicles so not concerned about it. I just got this car after my accord was totaled parked in front of my house by a young kid going to work. Bought this car and the insurance offered me almost 1k less than I was looking for. I’ve seen that people have used Lucas stabilizer and it has increased their oil pressure so it’s not a permanent fix, but it will give me time to shop around when the time comes and just replace the engine. Some shops are ridiculous with their prices at $2600 for labor. I might as well just get an engine which I’ve found for 2k with 50k miles, and warranty.

 

Yeah if the only other option is paying shop rates there isn't much sense in fixing the galley gasket since they'll probably charge 10 hours of labor to do it at $150/hr. I wouldn't bother with the oil stabilizer though, with stock viscosity it's still not going to affect pressure.

You could try running a slightly higher viscosity oil which would increase pressure. Switch to 10w-40 rather than 10w-30. If that won't clear the light try 20w-50 which is normally used for diesel and high horsepower applications. If you do use 20w-50 just be sure to give the engine a decent amount of time to warm up and don't just hop in and drive hard on a cold motor. Usually just waiting until you see the temp needle start to move is sufficient. You'll probably be 10-15psi higher with 20w-50 which should be enough to keep that CEL off as long as the gasket doesn't blow out anymore.

HR engines that are actually MISSING a piece of the gasket will be down to single digit psi at idle, usually it cracks and pushes a little piece up which sprays out oil but it's not a full blown ruptured piece of gasket.

 

Also as far as longevity, since the pump is still pushing a good volume of oil even with 20-30psi across the bearings it's still well lubricated. I'm not aware of any premature engine failure from a blown galley gasket even if it was missing a chunk. Mostly you just have reduced power output since the intake cams aren't being fully advanced due to not enough oil pressure.

 

thanks for your help. I’ll keep you posted.

 

update;

I tried the 20w50. The oil pressure raised to 90 psi cold start and 30 at idle. 45 at 2k. After a short trip to test it dropped to 8psi when warm. I pretty much parked it and have it scheduled to replace the gallery gasket, timing chain, tensioner, water pump, and chain guides.

 

Definitely sounds Iike it’s time. Good on you for figuring it out before it jumped time.

 

What has me concerned is reading other people that replaced the gallery gasket, and still have p0021. Especially when this will cost me $1500 to repair.

Also how many chain tensioners are there on this job? I bought one, but wasn’t sure if I needed more.

QUOTE=Urbanengineer;7216958]Definitely sounds Iike it’s time. Good on you for figuring it out before it jumped time.[/QUOTE]