G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08 Discussion about the 2nd Generation G35 Sedan 2007 - 08

Cause for the dreaded P0011/P0021 codes that everyone is curious about

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  #406  
Old 01-11-2018, 07:37 PM
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Help!!!!! 01/11/18

Im dealing with this issue right now with codes p0011 and p0021. The car is an 06 Infiniti G35 Coupe 5at DE MOTOR.

I recently had my engine replaced bc of bad compression after going turbo. Sold the turbo and got a USED 110K mile motor. Drove it 900miles and went WOT one night and the car starts popping from the exhaust. Didn't think anything of it till the next day I went WOT again and got to my destination and turned the car off for a good 1 or 2 hours. Turned the car on and it struggled. I thought it was weird so I turned it off and then back on and it struggles but this time with the 2 codes.

took it back to the shop and the shop warrantied my engine and got me another engine at 55k miles. compressions on this engine were really good. BUT the problem still exist!

I can't think its an engine problem. The only thing that was pulled out and replaced was the engine so what gives?!

Is it an ECU issue? Harness issue? PLEASE HELP ME GUYS!!!
 

Last edited by Algy; 01-11-2018 at 08:26 PM.
  #407  
Old 01-11-2018, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Algy
Im dealing with this issue right now with codes p0011 and p0021. The car is an 06 Infiniti g35 5at.

I recently had my engine replaced bc of bad compression after going turbo. Sold the turbo and got a USED 110K mile motor. Drove it 900miles and went WOT one night and the car starts popping from the exhaust. Didn't think anything of it till the next day I went WOT again and got to my destination and turned the car off for a good 1 or 2 hours. Turned the car on and it struggled. I thought it was weird so I turned it off and then back on and it struggles but this time with the 2 codes.

took it back to the shop and the shop warrantied my engine and got me another engine at 55k miles. compressions on this engine were really good. BUT the problem still exist!

I can't think its an engine problem. The only thing that was pulled out and replaced was the engine so what gives?!

Is it an ECU issue? Harness issue? PLEASE HELP ME GUYS!!!
Have you read the FSM?

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu...6_G35_Sedan/ec

"TE:

If DTC P0011 or P0021 is displayed with DTC P0075 or P0081, first perform trouble diagnosis for
DTC P0075 or P0081. Refer to
EC-193, "
DTC P0075, P0081 IVT CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
"
.

If DTC Confirmation Procedure has been previously conducted, always turn ignition switch OFF and wait
at least 10 seconds before conducting the next test.
TESTING CONDITION:
"]Before performing the following procedure, confirm that battery voltage is between 10V and 16V at idle

If you have a dead or weak battery that may be the source of your problem?

Telcoman
 
  #408  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:18 PM
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I would rule out the engine and all components like solenoids since the issue persisted on BOTH engines. Check with the mechanic though to verify they didn't swap any sensors, solenoids, anything.

Are you using a custom tune?

Short answer is yes it might be the ECU but go through all the steps in the FSM and you will find your answer.
 
  #409  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
I would rule out the engine and all components like solenoids since the issue persisted on BOTH engines. Check with the mechanic though to verify they didn't swap any sensors, solenoids, anything.

Are you using a custom tune?

Short answer is yes it might be the ECU but go through all the steps in the FSM and you will find your answer.
Yes the car has been flashed with UPREV
 
  #410  
Old 01-11-2018, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by telcoman
Have you read the FSM?

http://www.nicoclub.com/service-manu...6_G35_Sedan/ec

"TE:

If DTC P0011 or P0021 is displayed with DTC P0075 or P0081, first perform trouble diagnosis for
DTC P0075 or P0081. Refer to
EC-193, "
DTC P0075, P0081 IVT CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE
"
.

If DTC Confirmation Procedure has been previously conducted, always turn ignition switch OFF and wait
at least 10 seconds before conducting the next test.
TESTING CONDITION:
"]Before performing the following procedure, confirm that battery voltage is between 10V and 16V at idle

If you have a dead or weak battery that may be the source of your problem?

Telcoman
Sorry I should have been more descriptive. Its a 2006 G35 COUPE 5AT DE MOTOR
 
  #411  
Old 01-11-2018, 09:18 PM
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My guess is you should reflash back to stock and see if the problem persists. This is all under the assumption that you have a cable, if you had a tuner do it then you won't be able to just flash back to your current tune without paying them again probably.
 
  #412  
Old 01-11-2018, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
My guess is you should reflash back to stock and see if the problem persists. This is all under the assumption that you have a cable, if you had a tuner do it then you won't be able to just flash back to your current tune without paying them again probably.
That was my initial guess thinking its something wrong with the tune. So what I had the tuner do was just refresh it with my current tune to see if it would do anything. We didn't refresh back to stock though.

But then again nothing changed
 
  #413  
Old 07-24-2018, 10:39 PM
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Center dowl not aligned to the dot
Opened it up because there was play.
Found out it was broken. Same small pieces of metal i found in the Oil Pan.
I had P0011 and P0300 random misfires and decided to do some exploring myself. Saved myself over 4000 from taking it to the STEALERSHIP. They told me it was possibly the Galley gasket. I checked and they were completely intact. Checked the timing chain and noticed the sprocket was not aligned to the dot. I took off the secondary chain only to find play within the sprocket. Took it off, unbolted it and found out why I was having misfires.

*Had 95,000 miles on the VQ35HR
 

Last edited by Poncher; 07-25-2018 at 08:09 PM.
  #414  
Old 07-28-2018, 01:00 AM
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Owch, that's an expensive component too. I wonder what caused the damage?
 
  #415  
Old 07-31-2018, 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cleric670@gmail
Owch, that's an expensive component too. I wonder what caused the damage?
Sourced a used sprocket from eBay for $50. And I am not sure what caused it to break.
I put everything back together and I am now getting the P0300 and P1078 codes. P0011 is gone.
From what I read P1078 is related to the passenger exhaust valve timing control. When starting up the engine, it idles very rough. It can sometimes stall out.
Steps I have done so far: checked the coil packs for stable resistance other than OL or 0. All 6 cool packs were good. Spark plugs are gapped to ~.43 ~.44. Passenger side are fouled. 4 new Camshaft (valve covers) and 1 new Crankshaft (transmission) sensors are OEM new.
I also tried doing the learning procedures (idle/throttle body/and the exhaust valve timing control because I pulled out the magnetic retarders)
The vvt solenoids seem to be plunging when 12v dc is applied.

I am running out of options.

Compression (leak down) test is next for bent (exhaust) valves.
 
  #416  
Old 09-16-2018, 01:07 PM
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I had the P0011 issue and had the repairs completed. However, my fuel mileage really dropped after the repair. I was average over 400km per tank before the repair and now only getting 300km average per tank. I noticed the dealer did update the ECM after the repair and reset idle/intake timing. Would that have caused the mileage issue instead of the P0011 fix? Has anyone experienced worse mileage after the P0011 repair?
 
  #417  
Old 02-15-2019, 04:45 PM
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This is great to know.

What year G37 was your car.

We have 2011 with low oir pressure. Same error codes.

Just want to make sure the gasket on this thread will work on this car also

?

 
  #418  
Old 01-28-2020, 05:31 PM
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Talking finiti M35 P0021 Blown Gasket- Not Camshaft Sensor

Great thread.....I have had my M35 to the dealer 5 times over the last 14 months and finally fixed the P0021 issue with the help of this thread.

Over a year ago I was going 80 mph on the freeway and all of a sudden all the dummy lights came on, the car lost power and I limped to the side of the road. That must have been when the infamous gasket on the rear timing cover blew and made the oil pressure sensors and cam sensor go haywire until the oil pressure stabilized again. After simply disconnecting the battery that day I drove the vehicle for almost 8,000 miles before finding the root cause - but at only 3 psi oil pressure. Hopefully no long term damage.

Nissan originally followed the service manual and replaced all the camshaft sensors and crankshaft sensor. This along with oil changes / flushes and nothing. Finally a new tech simply checked the oil pressure and it was only 3 lbs at idle but the dummy light had never illuminated! GO figure - Nissan engineers think 0 psi is OK I guess before telling a dummy. This along with this thread gave me confidence to spend the cash on parts and the labor. Car always ran great but runs better now and I have piece of mind that I can go on a long trip.

Thanks to original author of this thread!!
 
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  #419  
Old 06-23-2020, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by infinitidude
I have seen numerous amounts of these cars come in with the dreaded P0011/P0021 intake timing control codes and I have read numerous posts of how nobody knows the answer. I have repaired a bunch of these and it is indeed an oil pressure issue and not a sensor problem. When the front timing cover is removed you will see 2 caps held to the rear timing cover with phillips head screws. The paper gasket gets blown out and it blows oil right into the timing cover and causes pressure drop to the intake timing solenoids. There is an updated gasket that has metal inside the gasket to keep it from blowing apart like the paper gasket seen in images. This is why the codes keep coming back no matter what oil flushes and sensors are replaced. Hope this helps you guys.
I realize this thread is now very old, but hoping for some info on this topic...

I've got a 2007 350Z 6MT with the VQ35HR motor, 104k miles on it. I've been getting the P0021 trouble code, and have already replaced both VVT solenoids, the PCV valve, changed the oil, and changed the oil pressure sensor / sending unit (the oil pressure gauge on the dashboard had been reading over 120 PSI, so I figured it was broken even if not related to the P0021 code).

If the CEL comes back on with the same code, I'm guessing that means I have the failed paper gasket issue you're describing here? A couple questions about that...

1) I had the dealer manually test oil pressure, and it measured normal (35 PSI at idle). Could that mean that I have a different issue, other than this gasket? I thought one of the symptoms of this gasket issue is having low oil pressure, but it's possible the oil pressure is low elsewhere (i.e. not where the dealer measured)?

2) This is probably a stupid question but...if I do have the gasket issue discussed here, what happens if you simply don't fix it? This is an older car that I don't drive often (maybe 2k miles per year or less) and isn't worth much $, so I'm debating whether this job (which sounds pretty intensive and expensive - having to take the engine apart and get behind the timing chain and all) makes sense, or whether I might take the risk of just continuing to drive it. I realize that it "could" cause more damage, but I'm trying to understand the likelihood of that actually happening. Any insight would be appreciated.

...keep in mind that the 350Z, unlike a lot of Infiniti products, actually has a factory oil pressure gauge on the dashboard. I don't know how accurate it is (hopefully reasonably accurate with the brand new oil pressure sensor), but I can also monitor oil pressure that way, so any advice as to what I should be looking for would be helpful.

Thanks for your help!
 

Last edited by 350Zdriver06; 06-23-2020 at 05:10 PM.
  #420  
Old 06-23-2020, 08:32 PM
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You can also use an app like Torque Pro for Android (BAFX OBD2BOBD2 adapter works great for this) to compare the cam advance angle between bank1 and bank2. If one side is lower then it's definitely not turning the cam and likely the gasket on that side is failing.

I suspect what you're going to find is the code only comes back if you rev the engine above a certain rpm. It's probably not a huge he gasket blowout YET and being on only one side right now the engine is still building a sufficient 35 psi of pressure. But it's still bleeding pressure off from a leaky gasket.

At 35 psi you're not at a high risk of bearing damage, since you're on the fence about the repair as long as you aren't revving the engine high and just using it for a weekend cruiser then it will be fine. Obviously it will he lacking power due to lack of cam advance on one bank.

Fix the oil pressure gauge issue, I'm not familiar with common wear issues and failures on the 350Z but having that gauge functional if you suspect a blown galley gasket is important.

The HR engine has dropped in price considerably for a used engine, you could buy a used, repair the gasket, swap engines on the weekend, good to go Monday morning.

If you are paying a shop to do the work I wouldn't bother. Drive it until it runs out of oil pressure then have them swap in a used engine with new galley gaskets. Z1 sells those gaskets and the Nissan part number is available on their website if you want to get them locally.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...et-p-8880.html
 


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