G35 Sedan V36 2007- 08 Discussion about the 2nd Generation G35 Sedan 2007 - 08

G35X Lowering Question

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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 10:11 PM
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beto4632's Avatar
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G35X Lowering Question

I just purchased the Eibach Pro-kit for my X, has any one installed these before? Would i need a chamber kit to go along whit it. Ive read online that i might need light fender rolling I have the stock rims and i was also thinking of putting in 15mm spacers all around would that be a good idea.
Thanks Guys.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 11:22 AM
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I'm dropped on Meagan racing coilovers. Your wheels will slowly start to camber so you can get it if you want. You can always get an alignment every few months to fix the problem. Rolling your fenders is highly recommended. Drop it and see if you're rubbing or not first. Once you get the spacers roll it so that it will fit.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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thank you will do!
 
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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by beto4632
I just purchased the Eibach Pro-kit for my X, has any one installed these before? Would i need a chamber kit to go along whit it. Ive read online that i might need light fender rolling I have the stock rims and i was also thinking of putting in 15mm spacers all around would that be a good idea.
Thanks Guys.
I installed the eibach's on my X last fall. Overall it's not too hard but I've had experience installing lowering springs on an Acura TL. After removing the front struts I had to take them to professional shop and pay $50 to have the springs replaced using their wall mounted spring compressor tool. A run of the mill compressor from autozone will not work. The infiniti springs are too tightly wound and under a LOT of tension. One thing worth noting is to be careful when unbolting the upper Control arms. Once unbolted the rest of the suspension (knucke, lower cntrl arm) will want to flop forward. If it's allowed to fall too far forward the front axle may come out of the spindle and it's a major PITA to get aligned and back in. You also run the risk tearing or ripping the CV boot when trying to get the axle back in. So I highly recommend having something like a bungee cord to secure the suspension to the car so it doesn't fall too far forward. Also worth noting is to jack up both sides of the vehicle evenly before starting. If only one side is jacked up it will make things very difficult. Replacing the rear springs is straight forward and easy.
After springs were installed and driving around for a few days I took it to the alignment shop. Camber was out by 2.0 to 2.5 degrees all around which is a lot. I knew it was pretty bad just by looking at the angle of the tires. I'm not a big fan of the slanted tire look. Nor do I like having my tires wearing out prematurely. They were able to move it in a little but not much. So the next thing was to buy the SPC camber kits. The fronts are easy to install but I could have saved myself the extra work if I had installed them when I was doing the springs. The rear is more of a pain because the toe bolt holes need to elongated. I used a dremel with a metal cutting wheel to quickly remove most of the material then switched to a grinding wheel to finish it. Took it back to alignment shop and they were able to dial it in easily. I ran 20mm spacers with 18" sport wheels and it never came close to rubbing. I have 19" coupe wheels now and love the setup.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 12:11 PM
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could you explain more why the toe bolt holes needed to be elongated?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ProKiller
could you explain more why the toe bolt holes needed to be elongated?
It's part of the installation process for the SPC rear toe / camber kit. You're basically replacing the factory toe bolts / cam. with larger diameter cam washers that allow for more range of adjustment but in order for the for this to work the stock bolt holes need to be elongated. Here's the instructions which may help explain.
http://www.spcalignment.com/instruct...60-INS_WEB.pdf
 
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