vdc/abs/slip lights on randomly - yes, another question
#16
Problem is solved.
A full flush and fill of the brake fluid (using dot 4 synthetic) fixed the issue. No more lights. apparently, when the fluid gets really low (according to nissan), the system needs to be completely flushed (in some cases) and filled/bled. So even just topping off your fluid MAY not solve this issue. NOTE: have have ICC, and this fix MAY only be related to models with that option, as per the ITB listed in this thread.
They scanned the car and found no issues whatsoever now. brake pedal travel is good, brake switch setup is good.
The only issue I have at this point is that my clutch is getting louder. sounds like the throw out bearing is rattling more. it's always been noisy, but worse now. probably time for a new clutch/bearing/slave cylinder.
A full flush and fill of the brake fluid (using dot 4 synthetic) fixed the issue. No more lights. apparently, when the fluid gets really low (according to nissan), the system needs to be completely flushed (in some cases) and filled/bled. So even just topping off your fluid MAY not solve this issue. NOTE: have have ICC, and this fix MAY only be related to models with that option, as per the ITB listed in this thread.
They scanned the car and found no issues whatsoever now. brake pedal travel is good, brake switch setup is good.
The only issue I have at this point is that my clutch is getting louder. sounds like the throw out bearing is rattling more. it's always been noisy, but worse now. probably time for a new clutch/bearing/slave cylinder.
#17
Problem is solved.
A full flush and fill of the brake fluid (using dot 4 synthetic) fixed the issue. No more lights. apparently, when the fluid gets really low (according to nissan), the system needs to be completely flushed (in some cases) and filled/bled. So even just topping off your fluid MAY not solve this issue. NOTE: have have ICC, and this fix MAY only be related to models with that option, as per the ITB listed in this thread.
They scanned the car and found no issues whatsoever now. brake pedal travel is good, brake switch setup is good.
The only issue I have at this point is that my clutch is getting louder. sounds like the throw out bearing is rattling more. it's always been noisy, but worse now. probably time for a new clutch/bearing/slave cylinder.
A full flush and fill of the brake fluid (using dot 4 synthetic) fixed the issue. No more lights. apparently, when the fluid gets really low (according to nissan), the system needs to be completely flushed (in some cases) and filled/bled. So even just topping off your fluid MAY not solve this issue. NOTE: have have ICC, and this fix MAY only be related to models with that option, as per the ITB listed in this thread.
They scanned the car and found no issues whatsoever now. brake pedal travel is good, brake switch setup is good.
The only issue I have at this point is that my clutch is getting louder. sounds like the throw out bearing is rattling more. it's always been noisy, but worse now. probably time for a new clutch/bearing/slave cylinder.
Did your fluid ever get so low as to suck air into the system? Short of that, unless the fluid was never-ever-ever changed, and it absorbed SOOO much moisture over the years, and then was subjected to severe (track) use which then boiled the fluid, thereby creating air pockets which lodged in the ABS system . . . then it seems really odd that just the fluid quality would cause the chain reaction that ensued. Having good fresh fluid certainly can never hurt, so there's no wasted effort there, but I wouldn't be surprised if this story isn't quite over yet.
EDIT: for the record, that ITB says absolutely nothing about fluid quality causing any codes, only fluid quantity.
Last edited by vqsmile; 08-09-2016 at 04:41 PM.
#18
WOW, that's quite odd.
Did your fluid ever get so low as to suck air into the system? Short of that, unless the fluid was never-ever-ever changed, and it absorbed SOOO much moisture over the years, and then was subjected to severe (track) use which then boiled the fluid, thereby creating air pockets which lodged in the ABS system . . . then it seems really odd that just the fluid quality would cause the chain reaction that ensued. Having good fresh fluid certainly can never hurt, so there's no wasted effort there, but I wouldn't be surprised if this story isn't quite over yet.
EDIT: for the record, that ITB says absolutely nothing about fluid quality causing any codes, only fluid quantity.
Did your fluid ever get so low as to suck air into the system? Short of that, unless the fluid was never-ever-ever changed, and it absorbed SOOO much moisture over the years, and then was subjected to severe (track) use which then boiled the fluid, thereby creating air pockets which lodged in the ABS system . . . then it seems really odd that just the fluid quality would cause the chain reaction that ensued. Having good fresh fluid certainly can never hurt, so there's no wasted effort there, but I wouldn't be surprised if this story isn't quite over yet.
EDIT: for the record, that ITB says absolutely nothing about fluid quality causing any codes, only fluid quantity.
1. fluid was +3 yrs old at least maybe more.
2. added random fluid (dot 3/4) that I had sitting around in the garage. that might have been old.
3. the fluid was just below the min line, so it's possible that air got in there.
Previously, the codes came right back after they cleared them. this time, nada. I have also been unable to reproduce them as before, so hopefully we're good.... who knows.
I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth though
#19
well, there might have been multiple factors:
1. fluid was +3 yrs old at least maybe more.
2. added random fluid (dot 3/4) that I had sitting around in the garage. that might have been old.
3. the fluid was just below the min line, so it's possible that air got in there.
Previously, the codes came right back after they cleared them. this time, nada. I have also been unable to reproduce them as before, so hopefully we're good.... who knows.
I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth though
1. fluid was +3 yrs old at least maybe more.
2. added random fluid (dot 3/4) that I had sitting around in the garage. that might have been old.
3. the fluid was just below the min line, so it's possible that air got in there.
Previously, the codes came right back after they cleared them. this time, nada. I have also been unable to reproduce them as before, so hopefully we're good.... who knows.
I'm not going to look a gift horse in the mouth though
Nonetheless, I still can't imagine how fluid quality could trip the pedal depressed switch code [C1142]. It is a purely mechanical on/off switch.
#20
well, could have been all that pumping while bleeding the brakes... so far so good. 100+ miles and counting
#21
#23
Not sure why you mentioned Cam Shaft or Crank... sensors as the Cam Shaft Sensors were replaced this summer.
These codes point to Brake Fluid Sensor... which I'm going to order and install and probably have the dealership bleed the brakes for me.
but again, the lights come on..... then go off.... randomly.
These codes point to Brake Fluid Sensor... which I'm going to order and install and probably have the dealership bleed the brakes for me.
but again, the lights come on..... then go off.... randomly.
#24
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