And thats the only reason why I decided to take this route because the bolts have low torque. Anything else would been an easy pass. I also agree, it's been redundant around here lately lol
Well we are back to business ☺. Still taking more test drives but no leaks ☺. After a few more drives I'll drain the distilled water and put the coolant mix in. Definitely felt great to drive my car again! Don't mind my stained driveway lol.
Found out how and why this happened to your car. My thermostat just failed and while replacing it I found the new thermostat housing is quite a bit thinner than the factory unit. So the bolts end up being way too long and if you don't pay attention and torque them down with the new housing this happens. I wrote a warning up about it here:
So I've been noticing a small loss of coolant lately after I swapped radiators (it was a used one) so I suspected the radiator was cracked. It only loss a small amount every week so I said I'll live with it until the fall because I'd rather enjoy my ac (condenser is built into the radiator 🙄.
Two days ago I lost quite a bit of coolant and decided to do a pressure test and at around 18lbs of pressure my thermostat housing is leaking once again 😒. At around 15lbs it's a small drip but the stock cap is rated at 19lbs so I decided to go to 18lbs. Also no overheating has occurred because I check the coolant every morning before work.
So I'm going to take scumbags advice and replace the head. Calling some shops today and comparing prices. Luckily I have another car to drive so the g can sit until I figure out what I want to do. I would just sell it as is but it's in to good of shape to just give up on it.
I would definitely replace the hose if it's leaking before tearing the engine down.
If the system cannot build pressure it keeps the boiling point of the water low, as you increase pressure the boiling point of water is raised significantly. That's why the coolant system is designed to work under pressure, the boiling point is raised nearly 40 degrees at 15 psi.
At zero pressure water boils at 212 degreesF, at 15 psi water boils at 250 degrees F. If the system cannot hold pressure you will lose a LOT more water/coolant due to it boiling off because the internal temp on the engine is much higher than the boiling point.
I would definitely replace the hose if it's leaking before tearing the engine down.
If the system cannot build pressure it keeps the boiling point of the water low, as you increase pressure the boiling point of water is raised significantly. That's why the coolant system is designed to work under pressure, the boiling point is raised nearly 40 degrees at 15 psi.
At zero pressure water boils at 212 degreesF, at 15 psi water boils at 250 degrees F. If the system cannot hold pressure you will lose a LOT more water/coolant due to it boiling off because the internal temp on the engine is much higher than the boiling point.
Cleric, I think the typo "hosing" in his post was meant to be "housing" and not "hose".
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