The HVAC side is the hardest since you need factory ends to cut off and put in the hole. Typically I chop them at the wrecking yard, solder one end shut, put a compressor bung on the other.

Coolant side is simple, couple of plumbing rubber caps, you're only testing at like 18psi so it's not holding much pressure.

Typically you can see if the AC side is leaking though because there will be a big oily spot where oil seeped out and attracted dirt.

 

Thanks for the help cleric! I'll give it a clear visual once over and test the radiator and hope for the best


Also isn't there something I have to buy since the ac system was exposed and opened? Can't remember the name right off

 

If the system was closed when you bought it I wouldn't worry about it. There's a good chance the vehicle didn't end up in the junk yard because the AC went out.

If the system was NOT closed... I'm not totally sure tbh. My experiences was I sprayed a bunch of brake cleaner through one (like half the can) and shot it out the other side by holding the AC nozzle right on the hole and pulling the trigger with the pressure regulator set at like 50-60. Last time I did this was a condenser on my dads 1994 GMC truck and it still works fine.

What you might be thinking about is the vacuum pump, I would recommend vacuuming it down regardless just because it gets 100% of the moisture out of the line. I've been using this cheapo one from Amazon for quite a few years now and it works like a champ just make sure it's oil level is good in the viewing window.


I hook it up and pump it down until my manifold gauges peg out at -30psi then let it run 10 more minutes. I'm not exactly an HVAC guy but it's worked well enough on quite a few vehicles.

 

So I installed my used radiator today and it went pretty good. No leaks and no overheating. I did notice while using the lisle spill free tunnel there was quite a bit of foam and it had me worried lol. Any particular reason why? Heading to my buddies spot to have my ac serviced so wish me luck 🤞




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